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Hmm.....I did mine and just left the rotor on lol. suspended the caliper in the air with a wire hanger and just knocked em through. Used washers to pull the
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#1 (permalink) |
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Hmm.....I did mine and just left the rotor on lol. suspended the caliper in the air with a wire hanger and just knocked em through. Used washers to pull the new studs back forth. Bent the dust shield a bit to let the studs clear to get out.
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#2 (permalink) |
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When I was on stock suspension - I got ZERO rubbing, even with my weird tire sizes. It was perfect in every single way. I only ever got the car to rub if I was on full lock and I hit a bump hard. Obviously, something you don't do often, if ever.
That being said, I am now lowered on KWv3's, and with the front having less than a finger gap and the rear with one finger gap, I rub the front on hard bumps, and while turning I rub more. The rears do not rub whatsoever. I also haven't installed my camber stuff yet, so my alignment maxed out at -2 degrees all the way around. If I try to fix my camber, I will rub even more in the front. I will definitely have to roll the front fenders. Do you have the sport package on your Z? The brake line connecting the 4 pot Akebono's are hard lines, so you have to remove the caliper and therefore introduce air to the system. Thinking about it now, I suppose you might be able to leave the rotors on, but yeah, you would have to bend the dust shields. For most people with the sport package, the caliper will have to be removed and the rotor should come right off, so it's no biggie. I'm surprised my rotors were that hard rusted to the hub!
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Next time just remove the idiot bolt, take the little spacer off of it, thread back in and tighten. The rotor will just pop right off with ease, no puller required!
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