Cipher reading weird AFR's on my car

SS_Firehawk

I just sent a couple csv files to uprev to take a look at and the AFR's look funny. I attached both my 0-60 runs in the zipped folder if anyone is curious as to what they look like. You can open them in Excel if you don't have cipher and look at the raw data. I think it may explain why I keep throwing a P0300 code and running pig rich. Any help would be awesome.

Attached Files

CSV files.zip (18.1 KB, 54 views)

__________________

Megan370z

My first guess on both files is that AFR B1 sensor is toast !
everything elese seem to work all together but only sensor AFR B1

it was probably hit or damaged during your exhaust swap.

- your heated snesor work fine
- MAF sensor work fine
- your AFR is lean under WOT
- Injector work good and are open pretty much the same time.

but again your AFR B1 isnt reading much at all.

edit; I see you have the PPE headers like mine.
-maybe the connector isnt connected properly
-maybe one of the wire got either not soldered to the proper wire or the weld is failing.
-last, maybe its just the sensor that is ****....

__________________
Megan Journal *Click Me* ....................One Man Team Motorsport *Click Me*

SS_Firehawk

This would make sense as I've been having this code since the exhaust install.

__________________

SS_Firehawk

I think I found the bad O2 sensor. It's on the passenger side near the firewall above the headers. It doesn't look broke, but it's the one giving me crazy readings. Anyone know what it costs to get it replaced?

__________________

prescott3656

Just under $100 on Amazon. Bosch 15370

SS_Firehawk

Are these the same exact ones on the vehicle already? I don't want any voltage differences between them to *** up the readings

__________________

prescott3656

just reading back, if you need the pre-cat sensor it's gonna be more. That Bosch 15370 is downstream. I think the dealer wants like $300 for new sensors or you can pick up some on this site.

RockAuto Parts Catalog

The NTK plugs are the cheapest.

Check out this thread: Oxygen Sensor ?'s

kellyefields

I may know what is going on here. Now keep in mind I have a stillen supercharger but I had some of the same codes as you. and I would try this before trying to change the upstream o2 sensor since it has probably welded itself to the header and there is no way of removing it without destroying the header etc. the problem is the placement of the intake filters and how close the MAF are to the filter. there is a little plate that comes with the kit that is supposed to block air/water or whatever from directly hitting the filters, if you are missing the plate like I was I would get the AF jumping all over the place and it would create a limp mode issue. Here is how you can tell if this is what is happening when tuning and you have the fan on in the front of the car for cooling turn the fan off and see if the air fuel settles down. then turn it back on it will jump all over the place. then put a piece of cardboard in front of the filters to block direct air and try it again and you will see the difference. My fix was to turn the intakes around to fit under the drivers headlight in that dead space so they could get air when needed but be shielded from direct air intake.
what happens is especially when you are using a fan to cool during a tuning session it creates a ram air effect. when the car is not under load (ie giving it gas) the engine does not require a lot of air flow but the cooling fan basically force feeds the engine air causing the crazy numbers. Take the fan away you get a more accurate reading when not under load. So try shielding the air away from the filters and you should be ok. I just decided to take it to the next level and move the filters off to the side to prevent this effect. it allows the filters to get the air they need without blocking the air flow going throught the front of the car. I am not sure if Stillen realizes this problem but in some way I think they did and that is why there is that deflector on there but when you go to do a custome tune and are using a high output fan to cool it creates havoc and causes these problems. Mine consisted of the car when crusing at high speed the air is forced into the engine causing a limp mode of sorts and when I would fall under 2500rpm it would not allow me to go above that until I turn the car off for 30 seconds to reset the computer. It also caused multiple misfire codes and bank to rich codes to pop on mine since finding this out I have not had any of these problems since.

__________________
MY 2009 SC BUILD.

SS_Firehawk

Thanks for the replies. To clarify, I did the logs on the street. The P0300 code has been consistently coming on since the header and full CBE install. The intakes and manifold were put on 6-8 weeks after the exhaust. Only difference is I now throw the code faster than before. The wires and sensor look in good physical condition from what I can see. I'm averaging 15mpg with mixed driving conditions because of this issue. I can smell fuel when its idling or recently shut off. The exhaust pops on decel, and I lost almost 20whp. I have to ride the clutch more than other vehicles I've driven at under 2k rpm when I pulling off because there is so little power.

__________________

kellyefields

did you replace the o2 sensors when you did the header swap? reason I ask I have never seen a set come out of the stock headers without damage. if that is the case order two new ones. Yes it costs some $$$ but better than damage to your engine.

__________________
MY 2009 SC BUILD.

SS_Firehawk

O2 sensors were not replaced. I'll make note of that and get them done.

__________________

kellyefields

that being the case I would be willing to put money on that one or both are damaged and that is causing all of your problems. Good luck with the fix and keep us updated.

__________________
MY 2009 SC BUILD.

Megan370z

if you dont rush the job and do it properly , it has to be well rusted in place to detroy those sensor or cross threaded.
I did 4 times my header and still using the same sensor .


but if they used an impact to remove those exhaust bolt or even drop or hit the sensor , they could have been damaged that way.


a suggestion to SS_Firehawk
swap those sensors on the opposite side (left in the right , right in the left) and redo a datalog to see if its really the same sensor that gives you bad reading.,,, if its does , then you know what to do !! $$$

__________________
Megan Journal *Click Me* ....................One Man Team Motorsport *Click Me*

SS_Firehawk

When I had the install done, I did tell them specifically not to use air tools until the sensors were removed to prevent them from getting damaged. The lines were ziptied away from the headers as well. I think I'm going to take it to a second shop for their opinion. Maybe all the tugging and fighting during the install loosened the pins. Again I appreciate the help.

__________________

SS_Firehawk

I know this is over a year old, just wanted to update it for anyone actually using the search function.

Issue ended up being miswired O2 sensors and the upstream wideband sensor was in the J tubes. So finally there is closure to this... over a year later. I have pics in my journal on page 12. Also made a separate thread with pics posted as well. Sucks knowing I was all over it, but couldn't pin point the problem. Lesson learned. Thank you GTM for finding the problem Also Megan370Z, you were right on the money, shout out to you on that. + rep

__________________