Track Alignment on OEM Suspension

Read T

Been searching, but I can't find a good link for people still running the OEM suspension. I will be getting an alignment a few days before my next HPDE and normally just tell the shop to put everything to factory specs. I really don't know how much adjustability the stock suspension has in it besides toe (if it matters I have Nismo struts/springs). Logic would tell me that I want to max out caster, run a bit more toe out up front, and a bit more camber all around. That being said I really don't know how much can be dialed in. What should I tell the shop? The shop is managed by a good friend and Z33 owner and I get unlimited lifetime alignments so I can return the alignment to stock shortly after the track day.

My HPDE instructor and friend who runs miatas/mustangs suggested


Any tips would be greatly appreciated

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

BGTV8

OEM front is toe-only adjustment ... to get more camber at the front you need and adjustable FUCA.

Your suggested settings are as good a place an any to start, BUT you need the adjustable FUCA to start.

Read T

I thought that might be the case. Maybe I should get a dremel and just slot everything out? (that was a joke). Suggestions for front toe setting then?

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

BGTV8

An eighth total toe-out is a good place to start, but with SFA neg camber, all you are going to do is melt the outer edge of the front tyres - if you have the same experience as I did on my first track-day, the outer edge will chunk heaps.

Read T

I've run these same tires at my last 2 track days and they've held up okay so we'll see.

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

Rusty

Since you can't adjust camber in the front. Try these settings. In the front zero toe. In the rear -1.5 to -1.75 camber. Toe zero to a hair in. You don't want toe out in the rear. Remember each car and driver is different.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Zauskycop

Late to the game...sorry. I also have a stock suspension. Do you have an aftermarket front swaybar? Probably the best improvement you can make for tracking (for the price that is!).

I pretty much run Rusty's recommendation, but about 1/16" in total in the rear. I also get my alignment with my happy *** in the driver's seat. It really DOES matter...

Tracy Ramsey

Read T

Nismo Sway bars F+R

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

Read T

Here is the setup I just had done (lifetime alignments FTW). This was with a full tank of gas.
F
Toe: 0.01* L 0.00*R
Camber: -1*L -.07*R
Caster: 4.8*L 4.7*R
R
Toe: 0.16* L 0.15*R
Camber -1.3* L -1.9*R

I'll let y'all know how it does on the track. I guess I need aftermarket parts to really adjust anything (camber/caster).

__________________
2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

Rusty

They could of gotten the rear camber closer.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Read T

They probably could have, but I already felt bad taking up the tech's time. He didn't make any $ off the alignment since it's lifetime unlimited, and he found that my drain plug was leaking and changed the oil for free. (well, drained and refilled, since it had about 10 miles since I changed it derp)

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

synolimit

If you can't swing FUCA, lowering always helps like swift spec-R's. You'll get a firmer ride over nismo springs even and better numbers. Caster will improve too. My coils are set a tad lower than my swifts and I'm sitting at -2.5 front camber I believe and like 5.4 caster and I love it. The rear however will need camber arms and mid links though or toe links if you get true coils.

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13 370z-

Read T

^ True, but I also DD this car and don't want to go lower or stiffer. Otherwise I would.

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
SUPPORT TEAM WINSOME RACING - WRL, CHUMP, LEMONS

synolimit

swifts are progressive. they are not harder than oem, they feel better than oem when DD'ing and till you throw it into a corner then you see the firmer spring come to life. also i live with crappy roads and speed bumps around my house AND im on 18's making my car even lower. ive never scraped except the oem chin spoiler that hangs down 2" from the bumper. you'll be fine DD'ing even with snow on the ground like me. you're in NC, im sure you'll be fine and will love them!

HOWEVER...some CBE are horribly low, mine is not and perfect.

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13 370z-