Which Clutch Stage Should I Choose?

Nuc370z

Hi all,

So about a week ago I made a thread about what twin-turbo or twin-supercharger kit I should get, but discovered that I don't have any supporting mod for it (I currently have a stock 2014 Nissan 370z w/ Sport Package). Can someone please recommend some clutch brands and what stage of clutch I should use? I understand that the higher the clutch stage, the faster the shift time, and it allows for more torque, but reduces drivability. I am thinking of either the 800 Horsepower Twin Supercharger Kit from GTM Motorsports or a Twin-Turbo Kit. What clutch stages should I use for either situation?

Thank you!
--Nuc370z

Chuck33079

Call z1 or specialty z. And stop thinking you'll be getting a GTM kit.

The stage of a clutch is just how they designate them within a manufacturers product line. It's not comparable across different makes. It also has nothing to do with shift times.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Solomatrix

get the best you can afford

BGTV8

"Stage" in clutch word is all about torque capacity, usually dictated by clamping force, plate diameter and number of friction/driven plates. It does nothing for shift times at all.

Bear in mind that the drive-line is an integrated "system" - improving the capability of one unit shifts the weakest point.

Driveline is
Engine - beware increased lubricant temperatures, bearing, piston/ring/rod and retainer (rod bolts and head stud) loads
Clutch
Gear box, consists of input shaft, input gear and laygear, bearings, syncro's and gear tooth strength
Tailshaft including universal joints
Diff gears (pinion and ring gear)
Driveshafts to the wheels (including CV joints)

If you are going for "big" torque numbers, each of these components needs to be revisited ...... and specified accordingly.

In a FI situation, if the additional performance is used "occasionally", then an uprated clutch "might" be all you need, BUT if you regularly exploit the additional torque, especially in the lower gears, then eventually something will break (and it might be the engine as higher boost pressures stress the main and rod bearings and inject a whole lot of additional heat into the oil !!).

Bear in mind that an uprated clutch with increased clamping pressure risks wearing the thrust face in the block and if that wears sufficiently to place a sideload onto the rods, then engine failure will not be far away.

It sounds to me like you need to hasten slowly and do a heap more research, and bear in mind that a lot of what you get off the inter-web is opinion and assertion.

Tread you own path !!

synolimit

Lmao, gtm. Hahahaha

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13 370z-

Chuck33079

Yeah. GTM is done as a company. They may still take your money, but you won't get a kit. The options are BP, FI, VSR and Stillen.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Chuck33079

In general, try to stop thinking of things in stages. That's Gran Turismo, not real life. For your turbo kits, differentiate them by the turbos used. For clutches, differentiate them by type- full face, 6 puck, etc and material- carbon, organic, etc.

__________________
2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent