I'm sure this has been discussed before, but maybe there's newer info out since the old threads. I'm in the purchase process and have raced my prior cars, but am
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12-17-2013, 08:49 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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HPDE Track Prep -- What's needed?
I'm sure this has been discussed before, but maybe there's newer info out since the old threads. I'm in the purchase process and have raced my prior cars, but am a neewb with the 370.
If you want to take a 370Z Sport and do a lot of HPDE events, what are the necessary preperations to the Z? I'm assuming: - The biggest oil cooler they make would be smart. - Redline WaterWetter to bring down the temp another 5 degrees or so? - Racing brake fluid - Racing brake pads What elese? Is the stock suspension okay for HPDE, or do most people replace it? |
12-17-2013, 08:52 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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Stock suspension is fine. It's almost always better to start with the stock suspension before you start making changes.
You're right about the brake pads, fluid, and oil cooler.
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12-17-2013, 09:00 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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I would just go after brake cooling/reliability and oil cooling for your first weekend with the Z, that will get you going. The stock sport suspension isn't horrible, so you might want to feel out what your next priorities are personally on-track. For me, I think a stiffer front swaybar (Hotchkis) was more critical than coilover upgrades, given the Sport suspension as a starting point.
On brakes: front ducting is really helpful on this car, and Stillen sells a kit with hub flanges and bumper intake flanges for our car. Also, staggering the pad bite (a slightly less-grabby pad in the rear than the front - most race pads have some options there...) helps avoid some ABS controller issues ("ice-mode") when track driving on the stock calipers. Ice mode is basically that our rear Sport brakes are a little bit oversized on pressure / piston diameter from the factory, and if 1-2 rear wheels manage to lock up first in a braking zone while the fronts are still rolling (due to loss of weight over the rear - esp on bumpy tracks), the ABS controller thinks the car is on patchy ice or something and reduces your available pressure to all 4 wheels. The pedal feels hard, but the braking force just isn't there anymore. Can be corrected by partially lifting and re-applying the brake pedal as soon as you feel it happening. |
12-17-2013, 01:06 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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12-17-2013, 01:40 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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I've said it before, have to say it again. You'll cook the diff fluid. Just driving it reaches 194*. Doesn't matter what you run. I recommend a diff cooler also if you have a sport model. I wouldn't want the OEM LSD to work and not work when you least expect it. Like ice mode it can scare the **** out of you. But it does depend on the tracks layout and your ability to drive fast. If you don't buy one I'd replace the fluid ASAP after the event since it will be cooked. You wouldn't drive on engine oil if it saw 300 degrees or so, so why do it with diff fluid.
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12-18-2013, 07:18 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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12-18-2013, 07:45 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Made my own. Just find a pump you want to run and cooler and the fittings and lines are easy to find and do. -8 AN will do.
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