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Track (No Condenser) Radiator Option

Been a while since I posted anything but I felt it made sense to share this. First of all this is not a DIY and expect do to a little

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Old 07-13-2022, 08:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Track (No Condenser) Radiator Option

Been a while since I posted anything but I felt it made sense to share this.

First of all this is not a DIY and expect do to a little cutting/ massaging to make this work. But I was looking at options to replace my radiator and came across only two options that did not have a condenser. The first was the Koyorad (single core 1.4 inch thick) for about $600 and the second was an ebay single core that measured about 1.25 inches thick for $200.

After a little searching I stumbled upon an alternative. And this is not for any particular brand but rather for an application.

I found that there is a standardized universal Mopar radiator that measures 28 Inches in length and 20 inches tall (OEM is 29 x 20). The inlet is passenger side top and the outlet is driver side bottom. All of them are at least two cores and the thickness varies but I could not find one less than 2 1/4 inches thick. If you are feeling randy there is a two core/three pass but the outlet is on the passenger side.

One good thing is you have options on manufactures. Don’t trust the $100 ebay special (two core and 3 inches thick!) then opt for a $200 Speedway, $300 CSF, or $500 Frostbite (w/ 4 rows). Also, Summit and Jegs make in house (aka imported from China) options. I opted for the 2 core 2 1/4 thick "Assault" brand ($139.99) b/c it was on Amazon and provided me the possibility of easy returns if it did not fit.

The outlet and inlet will need to be reduced to 35mm but you can figure that out. Yes that is a raditor cap fitting you see. If that has made you distraught please just buy the Koyorad.

IMPORTANT: To make this fit you may need to cut off the inside (shroud side) lower mounting tab on the bottom of the radiator so that the driver side lower outlet clears the fans (I did not cut the outer (crash bar side) mounting tab to give the radiator a slight rearward tilt to help angle the lower inlet down for better clearance). Of course, once you cut it you bought it! If you look at the second photo you can see similiar tabs that run the length of the top of the radiator. You will also need to open up the factory shroud openings a little to clear the upper and angled lower outlet.

Should my next thread extoll the virtues of using Battery hold down blocks as radiator mounts?





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Last edited by ResIpsa; 07-13-2022 at 03:13 PM.
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