Track (No Condenser) Radiator Option

ResIpsa

Been a while since I posted anything but I felt it made sense to share this.

First of all this is not a DIY and expect do to a little cutting/ massaging to make this work. But I was looking at options to replace my radiator and came across only two options that did not have a condenser. The first was the Koyorad (single core 1.4 inch thick) for about $600 and the second was an ebay single core that measured about 1.25 inches thick for $200.

After a little searching I stumbled upon an alternative. And this is not for any particular brand but rather for an application.

I found that there is a standardized universal Mopar radiator that measures 28 Inches in length and 20 inches tall (OEM is 29 x 20). The inlet is passenger side top and the outlet is driver side bottom. All of them are at least two cores and the thickness varies but I could not find one less than 2 1/4 inches thick. If you are feeling randy there is a two core/three pass but the outlet is on the passenger side.

One good thing is you have options on manufactures. Don’t trust the $100 ebay special (two core and 3 inches thick!) then opt for a $200 Speedway, $300 CSF, or $500 Frostbite (w/ 4 rows). Also, Summit and Jegs make in house (aka imported from China) options. I opted for the 2 core 2 1/4 thick "Assault" brand ($139.99) b/c it was on Amazon and provided me the possibility of easy returns if it did not fit.

The outlet and inlet will need to be reduced to 35mm but you can figure that out. Yes that is a raditor cap fitting you see. If that has made you distraught please just buy the Koyorad.

IMPORTANT: To make this fit you may need to cut off the inside (shroud side) lower mounting tab on the bottom of the radiator so that the driver side lower outlet clears the fans (I did not cut the outer (crash bar side) mounting tab to give the radiator a slight rearward tilt to help angle the lower inlet down for better clearance). Of course, once you cut it you bought it! If you look at the second photo you can see similiar tabs that run the length of the top of the radiator. You will also need to open up the factory shroud openings a little to clear the upper and angled lower outlet.

Should my next thread extoll the virtues of using Battery hold down blocks as radiator mounts?

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

ResIpsa

And hopefully this goes without saying, before I get this out on track and test it out this is a design experiment. Especially with the radiator I chose. With my benchmark being the Koyorad this in theory should be at least as effective. The core front surface area (The most important design feature a radiator) of the assault is actually slightly larger than the Koyorad Even though the total size including the end tanks smaller.

I believe my next track day is in about a month and I will update.

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

gomer_110

Other than price, why not just go with the CSF triple pass and just remove the condenser coil (it's only bolted on). At one point I believe Z1 even sold it without the condenser. I don't see that option now but I have to imagine the condenser less option is still available somewhere.

__________________
'11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions | Stillen | Motordyne | Uprev | CSF | Zspeed | Z1 Motorsports | AST | Swift | SPC | SPL | Whiteline | Hotchkis | Bride | Schroth | Robispec | Cusco | Nismo | Volk | Forgestar | Hoosier | RJM
'17 Titan Bone Stock

ResIpsa

Obviously logic dictates that it makes more sense to just choose the CSF or Koyorad. What sense does it make to not only purchase a radiator that you can’t be sure would fit, but also requires cutting the shroud, and reducing the inlet sizes. Then imagine, after my great experiment won’t fit, rather than returning it, cutting the lower mounting flange on the radiator? What the hell would I have done if it still did not fit after cutting it!?

Just a little window into my strange mind…

But in my defense, there are no other double core options available (in theory it should out perform a same size single core even with triple pass. 3 pass = 5-10% increase in efficiency while 2 core = 40-50%) and the price!

But for anyone reading this. Don’t do it! Just run away!

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

ResIpsa

Just to clear up any confusion. Triple pass does not add surface area or volume. It just means the radiator has internal baffles that make the coolant take a circuitous path within the radiator. The increase in efficiency is a result of the coolant spending more time in the radiator. Multiple cores actually add internal (not external) surface area by placing another internal radiator structure(core) directly behind the first. Of course each subsequent core will be less efficient than the one in front of it. But they always add volume.

In the picture below you can see the two stacks of tubes or "cores".

Of course there is also tube size and fin density but that is just getting into the weeds...

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

ResIpsa

Correction. the Mishimoto 370z radiator is dual core…

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/