Well I did it! I survived my first track day. I ran at Sonoma and learned that I have more car than courage for some of the turns. I did
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11-07-2021, 10:01 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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First Track Day Experience
Well I did it! I survived my first track day. I ran at Sonoma and learned that I have more car than courage for some of the turns. I did run out of brakes even though I did pads and fluid (base calipers, yes I know), but I just dialed back when things started getting smelly. Lots to learn and I知 looking forward to next time!
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11-07-2021, 10:07 PM | #2 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
Join Date: Dec 2011
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Are you hooked? And starting down the rabbit hole?
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浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html |
11-08-2021, 08:29 AM | #4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Congratulations I hope you enjoyed your time at the track. Seat time will make all the difference. Upgrade your brakes if it possible you will be limited with the base brakes.
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11-08-2021, 11:01 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Depends on your budget and end goals. Those are probably your best budget entry option (because you can get a used set pretty cheap). If you're serious and want to jump down the rabbit hole you can get a big brake kit (BBK). Check out DarkJak's brake kit thread.
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2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
11-08-2021, 03:08 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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With the Akebono brakes, at least parts are readily available as well as they fit an 18" rim. Your tire selection in the long run will be greater too than if you were stuck with 19" rims. I run the Akebono sport brakes front and rear on my '14 Nismo, I have no regrets staying with the factory sport brakes.
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Corsairprime 2014 Nismo #462, GunMetal Grey, GT-R Start Button, AAM S-Line/R-Line intake and S-Line exhaust, Berk HFCs, Osiris Tuned at JoTech |
11-08-2021, 03:39 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Congrats! It's a fun and rewarding journey.
Definitely a ton of options on brakes going from pads to rotors to full on brake kits. With the base brakes, you'll have trouble finding a lot of off the shelf rotor kits, so I'd recommend at least going with someone's takeoff Akebonos. They give the biggest bump in performance over base brakes for the money. A lot of people have no problems tracking with the Akebonos and upgraded pads, fluid, and ducts. If you outgrow those, I'd recommend considering the kit I've put together. I certainly wish I made that jump years earlier because I would've saved a ton of headache and money trying to make the Akebonos work for me. The heat shedding with the AP racing rotors is truly next level, as are the consistency and pad support of the calipers. We don't get much airflow in the wheelwell, or any sort of ducting stock, direct or not, so any ducting kit will lower average brake temps considerably as well. We now have Z1's 2.5 inch ducting kit, which are a nice jump in airflow over Stillen's 2 inch duct kit, though they require figuring out a front duct at the bumper.
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11-16-2021, 12:46 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
In the meantime I壇 like to squeeze one more track day in before the end of the year. Has anyone tried a ducting kit on the base brakes? I知 wondering if that might tide me over until I致e got the money for the AP kit. |
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11-16-2021, 04:21 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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11-16-2021, 06:05 PM | #11 (permalink) | ||
A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
I don't remember seeing anyone running ducting on the base brakes so you might be the first. Quote:
The tricky part about the Z1 kit is they don't have front bumper ducts with it. I ended up using the Nismo RC ducts and reducing those all the way down to 2.5" diameter, but a lot of people buy generic circular ducts instead.
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@stupidtoycars | My track vids 09 7AT|MCS 2WNR|Topgunz Rotrex|Ecutek (Eugene)|Maxxis RC1|Titan-7 TS-5|OSG LSD|Rear Mount Derale Oil Cooler (WIP)+25 Trans Cooler|Fismo|G-LOC R12/R10|Zeta III L|NLR Wing and Splitter|CJM Pan and Fuel Hat|Radium Surge Tank|AP Racing CP9668 |
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11-16-2021, 08:55 PM | #12 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
Join Date: Dec 2011
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I believe the rotor backing plate is the same for both the base brakes and 'bono's. When people have switched from base to the 'bono's. They didn't have to change the backing plate far as I know. The Stillen kit backing plates are thicker then the oem plates. This is to resist flex in the plate. It also is a little farther away from the rotor. This is so that when it flexes, it doesn't hit the rotor. I ran the Stillen kit for years. Then I increase my hose size to 3". That was a PITA to install.
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