question re: wheel offset

arados

It seems factory wheel offsets are unappealing for most; based on numerous threads about spacers and "will this fit".

With a lower offset and/or spacer, for a wider track, how does it affect the wheel bearings? Particularly front wheel offset, i.e. running a wheel with offset of +10, 15, 20 etc...

Whether street driven or track, I'm wondering about wear and longevity of the bearing.

Thoughts?

JARblue

I would think how you drive has far more impact on the longevity of the wheel bearings than your wheel offset. If you keep to reasonable offsets for the vehicle my guess is the wheel bearing is strong enough that the impact is negligible. I'm no mechanic but I did sleep in the lobby of a Holiday Inn Express last night.

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Spooler

It's not an issue. The only time they are an issues is when you get lots of track miles on them or mileage in general. The unit bearings are good to go.

Rusty

You don't hear of too many unit bearing failing on the Z in this forum. They normally let you know when it's time for replacements. There has been a few posts on them.

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2011 Nismo#91

Really, not in this section. Alot of people do it for ascetic purposes, that's true. But the benefit from an offset is very minor for most track drivers (this section) and some added challenges. With regards to track driving, as long as it's a small quality spacer or added offset the bearings will be fine, and the wheel studs wheel studs strong enough. Small IMO is 5-10mm. They will also have an impact on your alignment and suspension geometry which is something beyond my expertise in dealing with.

http://www.rapid-racer.com/tyres-and...s-upgrades.php
"WHEEL OFFSET SETTINGS:
Zero offset: Wheel hub mounting face is in-line with the centreline, "ET0".
Positive offset: Wheel hub mounting face is positioned forward to the centreline and historically FF cars would use this design.
Negative offset: Wheel hub mounting face is positioned backward to the centreline.

It is critical to match the wheel offset to manufacturers specifications as close as possible, as suspension components could result in extra stress and strain when under suspension loads. Logically these offsets were engineered to provide minimum load on critical links including wheel bearing for example."

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bpchaos

It's also pretty easy to change out the front bearing carriers, isn't it? Something like 11 bolts, including the wheel nuts. The whole thing comes out as a unit and you replace it with another.

Rusty

Look at my thread for installing the ARP wheel studs.

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Geoff-AU

Factory setup is only unappealing for those who want hellaflush, or poke. Or, if you lower your car, the wheels sit a bit deeper in the wheel wells and people want to bring them back out.

Personally? I like full guards but can't stand poke of any kind. It's kinda like eating bananas, there's a specific point of ripeness where the texture changes and suddenly it's a no-go. I'd rather tolerate a bit of tuck than have any sort of poke.

Stock sport rims at stock height look perfect to me. They fill the guards and are just tucked in a little bit.

jchammond

Negative offsets effect the wheel bearings much more; wouldn’t be concerned about premature bearing failure.
Guy’s are racing TT Z’s with 600+ whp & 11” wheels on all 4 corners...don’t hear of bearing failure

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