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My 2 cents. 1) that's symptom of clutch fluid boiling. Add insulated clutch lines and swap to high temp fluid. Motul RBF 600, Torque RT700, Castrol SRF, and many other
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My 2 cents.
1) that's symptom of clutch fluid boiling. Add insulated clutch lines and swap to high temp fluid. Motul RBF 600, Torque RT700, Castrol SRF, and many other choices. 2) fast intention also makes a 34row kit. Z1 and FI both use the same Setrab core, but I believe FI has the option to add a fabricated block off plate (or just DIY something to cover the oil cooler surface when winter hits, layers of painter's tape or velcro an piece of aluminum onto the oil cooler will work). Yes thermostatic plate, as it limits oil from circulating into the cooler when oil temp is below 180F. 3) That depends on your skill level, or how good you plan to get. I'll defer to the experienced track guys
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 07-10-2016 at 08:41 PM. |
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![]() Thank you so much for the response, feels good to know that it's not my CSC failing! |
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 07-09-2016 at 03:30 PM. |
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I have the Z1 34 row cooler with the thermostatic plate. In the winter time. I put duct tape across the oil cooler.
You need to insulate the clutch line down by the exhaust pipe. Change your clutch fluid. Use Motul 600 or better. Stainless brake lines will help. When you do that. Change your brake fluid too. Motul 600 or better. Stillen bars are ok for street and beginner track rat. Once you start getting faster. You'll need a stiffer bar in the front. Most of us use the Hotchkis front bar. When you start doing all of this. You are going down a rabbit hole with no bottom. Have fun and be safe. ![]()
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