Advice/recommended upgrades for tracking a Nismo 370Z?

roninsoldier

I recently went on an extensive test drive in a Nismo 370Z and really enjoyed it! I took the Nismo to my favorite local canyon road and it was a riot to drive! The suspension was tuned perfectly for my tastes as the car felt firm and planted without being harsh, the brakes felt great/easy to modulate with lots of bite, the engine didn't lack for power and I loved the weight of the steering and amount of feedback I received through the wheel.

I'm now considering picking up a low mileage/slightly used Nismo Z as a 3rd/weekend car. For reference, the car would see maybe 1-2 days a week commuting when it's nice outside, along with occasional weekend canyon drives, autoX events and an HPDE open lapping day every now and again; mostly on my local track- High Plains Raceway.

I've been to a high performance driving school and have attended a few HPDE track days in previous cars (most of my HPDE track days were in my old Mazdaspeed Miata), as well as several autoX events. I'm far from a pro driver, but not the worst either.

With that said, I've been trying to do my homework and have found some concerns about occasionally tracking the Z. I'm thinking that I might be fast enough as a driver to start having a few issues with the Z and I had a few questions that I'm hoping you guys might be able to answer.

1) I've read all about high oil temps on the Z, but it appears there's several reasonably priced oil coolers out there for it, so that's not really a concern. I would install an oil cooler before ever setting a tire on track.

2) Brakes appear to be an issue under stress. I'm assuming a set of decent pads and fluid will help mitigate the problem. Any pad recommendations for a car that will be staying on street tires?

3) I'm considering setting up brake ducts as well, but don't want to cut holes in my bumper. I kind of like this undertray setup: Nismo bumper brake duct install

^^^Anyone used a setup like that on track? If so, how much of a difference did it make and is it worth the time/investment?

4) It looks like fuel starvation is an issue on long right-hand turns. Unfortunately, HPR is generally ran clockwise, with a good amount of time spent on sustained right-hand turns. I saw a fuel system fix available from CJ Motorsports for $1200; which seems like a decent amount of money to spend on a problem that shouldn't have existed in the first place. I had a few questions about this:

-If I keep fuel topped off at the track, how long of a session can I run without starving the stock fuel system? 20 minutes? 30 minutes? Less?

-If I invested in the CJ Motorsports kit, what all would be involved in getting the car to run properly? Assuming no other engine/power related mods (at first); would it require an ECU tune to property setup fuel trims?

-Should I bother with upgrading the entire fuel system for just the occasional HPDE open lapping day?

Anything else I'm missing or should know about tracking the Nismo Z?

Thanks in advance!

-Brandon

Zauskycop

1. Correct.
2. Carbotech XP10/8 combo. 8/8 works also, but a bit less aggressive. Change them out before and after track day. Not street pads.
3. Stillen brake duct kit. no holes made.
4. Below 3/4 possibly...Below 1/2 definitely. Car will get around 6 mpg at track.
CJ Kit. Install. Run. Nothing else needed.

Now, go read the Stickied thread on Track Days. Really. All this is in there...

Tracy Ramsey

GSS138

1. Z1 Oil cooler.
2. For daily occasional track use I would go endless MX-72's lot of people like the carbotechs too though, but carbo's might get annoying on a daily drive and they don't last anywhere near as long on track as the Endless pads. It's mainly preference in braking style that will determine which way you go.
3.Stillen's kit is good but expensive, can fab your own just buying parts from Jeg's.
4.Just installed CJ kit and it works great. I can not finish a 20 minutes session sometimes at Big Willow on a full tank the fuel starve on this car is absolutely ridiculous. It's a major problem with this car that the idiots at Nissan should have fixed 6 years ago instead of doing dumb crap like adding LED running lights and piped in engine sound through the speakers.

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Rusty

Mostly agree with everything above.

1. Get a 34 row oil cooler. You'll than me later. I have the Z1. FI makes a 34 cooler too.

2. I run the Carbotech 10/8 combo. Started with Yellowstuff pads until my skill level improved.

3. Brake cooling. I'm using the Nismo RC ducts with a Stillen duct kit. Also using Ti heat shields between the pads and pistons.

4. I got one of the first RRP's from phunk. Money well spent!

5. If you get a manual. Wrap insulation around the clutch line down by the exhaust pipe, under the car. Flush the fluid out and use a good brake fluid. The same stuff as for your brakes when you do them.

6. And read the Sticky Thread.

7. Now go and have fun!

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ban25

Check out this post for some first steps. The RRP is critical. Like GSS, I can't finish a 20 minute session without experiencing fuel cut. I will typically burn 3.5 gallons per session and top off every session. This gets expensive on 101 octane!

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roninsoldier

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'll be sure to put it to good use!

Looks like installing the RRP ahead of time is the way to go. The install looks pretty in-depth; should be interesting.

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Zauskycop

To me (fair mechanical aptitude, low electrical) the install was pretty easy, just time consuming. The electrical was my problem, and I just invited over a friend who does that. Took him 30 minutes, and 2 beers.

Tracy Ramsey

MAMotorsports

Pretty much all the major points have been hit in this thread, we have had great luck with the FI 34 row Setrab Kit.

One addition I often see overlooked, and nice set of seats, harness, and harness bar to keep you planted. Keeps your mind and body focused on driving the car and not holding yourself in place.

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Daelen @ MA Motorsports

MA-Motorsports.com

https://www.facebook.com/pages/MA-Mo...C/125379858828

phunk

Just to elaborate a tiny bit - the CJM RRP essentially "splices" into the fuel system between the factory fuel pump and the fuel filter housing with regulator. Since it reuses the factory filter/regulator housing, pressure in the system will remain at original levels (except during right hand turns of course, where it will hold steady rather than drop).

By keeping the fuel pressure in the rails at the factory setting, the RRP system has no side effects to the ECU calibration. If fuel pressure was made higher or lower, this would effect the volume of fuel to pass through the injectors when open, requiring the calibration to be adjusted. But we were able to easily avoid that.

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Zauskycop

Did you guys ever find a seat mount that keeps the seat low? And adjustable?

Tracy Ramsey

MAMotorsports

The Bride FG rail works great if you dont need a wide seat (Have 1 set in stock)

I am working with another manufacturer that will hopefully be building one that will be friendly for bigger seats!


-Daelen

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Daelen @ MA Motorsports

MA-Motorsports.com

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osbornsm

To the original post-er...

Here is the link you want --> Track Day best practices

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DR_

I sent OP a PM but I'll also post it here. My 370z is for sale here and has everything you need to go fast and be reliable on track.