So before I went to the track for the first time, I got the 34 row oil cooler, hp plus brake pads and flushed the brakes with high temp fluid
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08-09-2015, 03:22 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Track Issues - Fuel / Clutch help
So before I went to the track for the first time, I got the 34 row oil cooler, hp plus brake pads and flushed the brakes with high temp fluid and added steel brake lines.
Went to track and everything was good for few laps then my clutch felt like it was stuck. I could still change gears but pedal had no resistance and when initial pressing was already at half way. Then once I got to half tank, there was one corner that was a big sweeper and after coming out of that turn and gas pedal was floored then it was acting like it wasn't getting fuel. If I lift and press again then it was fine. Do you guys think if I flush my clutch fluid with high temp fluid and change to steel clutch line that would solve issue with clutch? As far as the fuel problem, do I need a race fuel pump? One guy said to change fuel filter but from the research I have done it looks like we don't have fuel filters in these cars??? Any help much appreciated. Need to get these fixed prior to going to track again. |
08-09-2015, 03:58 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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The clutch fluid boiled, higher temperature fluid would help. I had the same problem it was due to changing our the stock cat's which have a heat shield. No real easy fix for the fuel issue besides the cjm fuel fix.
Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 08-09-2015 at 04:02 PM. |
08-09-2015, 04:58 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Try bleeding your clutch system with something like Motul 600 and wrapping your clutch line with insulation down by the exhaust.
Sounds like you ran into fuel starve. Was the turn a long right? If so, you need phunk's fix. The only other thing you can do is keep the fuel tank full each time you go out on the track. CJM Fuel Starvation Control Product, Round 2
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08-09-2015, 05:36 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Rusty's right, keep her full and put Motul 600 or another high temp fluid in and some insulation. I had mine boil at my last event and had to use my foot to pull it back up, had some short session too...
I just got done bleeding mine today. With Rusty's method too . Thanks buddy Went ahead and did the brakes too since she was already in the air (the hard part) and I had some help. Then left her on the stands to do an oil change this week. I have a track day in a couple weeks so I needed to all 3 anyway.
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08-10-2015, 03:27 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Your clutch issues are also very common. What you are experiencing is your clutch fluid boiling. I also use Castrol SRF in my clutch master cylinder and change it after every track weekend. At the track I have had my fluid boil, my master cylinder fail, and my slave cylinder fail. I suggest that you practice driving your car without the clutch. You don't have to master it just understand the concept. It may help you get home from the track one day.
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08-14-2015, 01:08 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Yea I know this clutch boiling problem all to well. It has happens to me at least once a year. First time I thought it was a bad CSC spent the money for the Zspeed CSC, and it turned out to just be this fluid boiling issue.
I take the plastic brake/clutch master cylinder cover off during the summer, and track days which I really feel has helped some. I also run Motul 660. |
08-14-2015, 04:24 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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also, if the clutch pedal goes down and doesn't come back up, you can reach behind it with your foot and bring it back up.
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08-22-2015, 02:15 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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Just reading through this thread, man our "sports" cars really suck at the track. Cooling on these cars is so poorly designed.
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08-24-2015, 01:07 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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There are no cars that can handle real track duty short of a GT3 Porsche. This includes the Corvette in any stock form. I have an '07 Z06. The 370 needs everything - radiator, oil cooling, brake ducts, all fluids and more. I just added a vented Seibon hood. Price it in and it is still one of the lowest priced cars that will hang near mid pack. I have well over $50K in my '16 with nothing done to the engine.
Wilwood 660 in the brakes and clutch with single 3" brake ducts did the trick at high temps going into turn 1 and turn 5 at Miller. I was pleasantly surprised that the Carbotech 10/8s did so well. I need another set of 10s though. |
08-24-2015, 03:30 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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Agreed, even a 997 or new Caymen, the first thing any race shop is going to do is oil cooler and radiator upgrades. Probably brake ducts next. The one that really makes me mad though is the fuel starve. It is a known design flaw for 7 years now and they have not done anything about it.
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08-24-2015, 03:48 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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I had no issues on my 350 and now I had to install the starve fix on the 370. That one is mostly unique. I did do track days before the fix; kept it full and had no issues.
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08-25-2015, 05:29 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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Yep, I have this issue every track day, every third lap. I have a ZSpeed HD CSC, new OEM CMC and insulated SS clutch line going in soon, along with Motul RBF600. I have Motul RBF600 in my brakes, along with Carbotech XP10/8 pads and no problems! The brakes are rock solid.
That said, I've developed a few tricks to deal with the clutch fluid on the track until I get my new parts installed: - Go easy on the first lap of a session, I'm not going to get my best time on that lap anyway - Go all out on lap 2, this is my last problem free lap (w/o limp mode, boiled clutch fluid, fuel cut, etc) - Engaging the clutch more and shifting more helps distribute the fluid and keep it from boiling, if you can go up to 4th or 5th even for a few seconds, do it - I'll typically take a cool down lap on lap 3 or 4 to pump the clutch and let the engine cool, this will usually let me get one final hot lap in before I take it to the pit - Coming into the paddock I like to stay in 3rd so I can easily drive to my spot, make sure to shift into neutral if your clutch is totally dead, rather than stalling out. - It usually just needs a minute or so of pumping at the pit to bring the clutch back, make sure to lift the pedal all the way up with your toe. Hopefully, this will all be ancient history by my next track day!
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08-26-2015, 09:32 AM | #14 (permalink) |
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I think there is a difference between the '09s and the '16s. All I did for the clutch was the fluid (same as brake - Wilwood 600). I have had no issues on track - yet. Most of my line is insulated from the factory.
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08-27-2015, 11:43 AM | #15 (permalink) |
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I wouldn't be surprised, the insulation is cheap after all. I even considered wrapping mine with tin foil to try and shield it from the heat, lol.
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