Good day, I take my car to be serviced at dealerships; warranty requires so. When driving, from a cold start all the way up until the oil temp reads 190
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12-01-2020, 12:08 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Wrong oil?
Good day,
I take my car to be serviced at dealerships; warranty requires so. When driving, from a cold start all the way up until the oil temp reads 190 - 200, I have adequate, normal power. As soon as it goes above 200, there is a massive loss in engine response... feels like I either lost 50 Hp or there is something wrong with the throttle. It doesn't get too hot. My max oil temp is 230... it usually sits at 220. So its not over heating... The throttle bodies...fuel injection...fuel pump... etc... no leaks and everything has been cleaned (this due to another issue that arose when I had an error with a Maf sensor, but that was done with and no codes at all anymore). I was told that perhaps the dealership just used a different oil, given that they have drums of it and don't stock up on more expensive kinds... so they use the same one for the whole range... so by using the wrong kind of oil, it doesn't have the right viscosity when it heats, and thus the VVEL system doesn't work too well. How likely is this? Its quite annoying... car pulls hard only the first 20 minutes and then feels like a lesser car than it is. Thank you for your time. Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk |
12-01-2020, 12:18 PM | #2 (permalink) | |
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Take it back to shop. Obviously something loose, not hooked up/connected or something they broke. I don't suspect the oil. Maybe if they used something like 0W20 but that would just be thinner at temp. Not sure if VVEL would not work with 0-20 at those temps. Do they even have 0W20 in Mexico? I'm guessing the lowest grade they would have used is 5W30. Ask them what they use. Oil brand doesn't matter. zz Last edited by ZoomZ; 12-01-2020 at 12:31 PM. |
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12-01-2020, 12:54 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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The wrong viscosity isn't going to make a lot of difference in performance - over a short period of time. Oil that is too thick or thin can cause wear problems over time but, as long as they got close on the viscosity, you shouldn't have a noticeable loss of performance. Ie, I agree with ZoomZ that there is a good chance that the shop messed something up during the oil change. Maybe you have something else going on but a good chance it's the shop's fault.
Have you checked for any DTCs? If you don't have a reader, most auto parts stores will loan you one for the few minutes it takes to check. Some will even check it for you. Edit: The fact that the problem doesn't show up until the engine is warm leads me to believe you have a temperature sensor malfunctioning. Possibly a connector knocked loose during the oil change? Edit #2: Warranty does not require that oil changes be done by the dealer. DIY and save your oil/filter receipts. Or have a mechanic that you trust do it.
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12-01-2020, 01:04 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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I agree with the others. Definitely not caused by wrong viscosity oil. Seems like some type of sensor was left unplugged or was damaged, probably temperature related. Surprised it's not throwing a CEL. Hope it wasn't disabled or disconnected in order to mask a bigger issue.
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12-01-2020, 01:43 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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12-01-2020, 01:58 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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The temperature sensor makes sense as it's always above 200 when it happens... if the day is parorcularly cold and it won't go over 200 for my commute...then the whole day power delivery is fine. Sadly there are no codes present... and like i said... throttle bodies...injection... induction...fuel pump... were all checked, and they're fine. Unfortunately, here in Mexico you must get the oil change at dealerships so that they honour your warranty should issues arise... that's the bad side of having warranties. Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk |
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12-01-2020, 02:03 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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At least now I know it is not likely that wrong oil be the culprit. But yes... there's neither CEL nor codes showing up... which, sometimes they don't, granted, but they most definitely should if it is a sensor problem. Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk |
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12-01-2020, 05:21 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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What other services performed? If just an OC and this happens, then it may simply be coincidental. Just take it back to them to see if they can duplicate what you experienced. Good luck with getting it diagnosed properly.
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12-01-2020, 09:20 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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A lot of things can go wrong with a "simple" oil change. Like, forgetting to put oil in. Wrong quantity of oil. Filter gets forgotten, sensors and wires get knocked around etc etc.
Not saying your problem is oil related, but **** happens. Also, dealerships aren't always the best just because the sign outside says they made the car. If they used 0W20, or any other grade you aren't happy with, I think you are certainly entitled to ask them to put in what the owners manual requires, free of charge. I would certainly start with the obvious, if you have the ability to do so. Check oil temp sensor wiring and connector. Also the water temp sensor. Have you personally looked in the engine bay since OC to see anything obvious from top? Last edited by ZoomZ; 12-01-2020 at 09:22 PM. |
12-02-2020, 12:20 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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12-02-2020, 12:24 PM | #11 (permalink) | |
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Everything looks fine on top... though im no mechanic, but everything looks plugged-in. Im gonna have to check where the water and temperature sensors are cuz I have no idea! But thanks for the tip. Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk |
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12-02-2020, 03:18 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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I know this sounds dumb but I will say it. Check to be sure that the air filter was installed properly and the top in on correctly. This happened to me a year or so ago. The car run like is was going to die.
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12-03-2020, 11:33 AM | #13 (permalink) | |
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So well. It was installed correctly... but they supposedly changed it 2 months ago. It looks like I drive in dusty backroads. I guess they didnt change ****. Sent from my SM-G985F using Tapatalk |
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