I just completed a successful hydraulic line replacement (lines #23,24) on my 2010Z. (very early production, S/N 381). It was an educational experience and after I completed the repair it
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07-13-2021, 07:31 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Location: Minneapolis
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Successful 370Z Convertible top DIY repair
I just completed a successful hydraulic line replacement (lines #23,24) on my 2010Z. (very early production, S/N 381). It was an educational experience and after I completed the repair it was clear to me that most common malfunctions I feel that I could tackle. I used Top Hydraulics in Oregon as the source for info and parts.
Nissan has basically washed their hands of top repairs for 370Z owners so you need to go it alone with out their help. There are some repair shops around the country that have experience with the Z but they are not everywhere. Nissan refuses to sell any piece parts for the top so sources are either used or refurbished/fab'ed parts from companies like Top Hydraulics. All in all it was a fairly straightforward experience and I used notes from fellow forum members and the Top Hydraulic videos online to complete the job. In summary don't get discouraged if your top fails.... yes you can get your Z top back in operation and it won't cost you 15K+
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THE OPEN ROAD IS WAITING.....Solid Red Touring 370ZR w/Navi |
07-13-2021, 11:08 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Well done fisherg, good to here. Were your lines leaking or something?
I have been saving all advice on Roadster tops in case mine has any issues in the future. So far so good apart from my roof slightly hitting the deck lid on opening but like most others I open mine from the outside with the small button on the door and just pull canvas top forward to clear deck lid as it lifts up. Are you still on your original 5th bow bungee cords or haver you fitted the new improved ones? |
07-14-2021, 07:33 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Location: Minneapolis
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The line #24, which is one of the two lines to the secondary cylinder just over the passenger side window cracked as a result of repeated stress from opening and closing over 11 years (about 2,000 operations I would guess). The secondary cylinder lines (#21, 22, 23 and 24) are the ones under the most stress on the system.
They are the most prone to fail because of the sharp bend they experience as the top closes. When you watch how the top folds down you can see those lines bend. There is a one particular zip tie holding those lines in place which adds to that stress. That is where mine failed. Luckily those lines are fairly easy to replace. They don't require removing any part of the top frame or cover at all. Regarding the Bungee cords, even after 11 years they seem to be doing OK.
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THE OPEN ROAD IS WAITING.....Solid Red Touring 370ZR w/Navi Last edited by fisherg; 07-14-2021 at 07:35 AM. |
08-02-2021, 11:08 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Location: California
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It sucks that Nissan won't support repairs to the top. I have extended warranty. But I don't know if it covers the top. I need to check on that. Congratulations on fixing it yourself.
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02-15-2022, 12:02 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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I managed to do a similar repair with the help of Klaus at Top Hydraulics. It's not a hard job if you're good with mechanical things. I was an aircraft hydraulics tech in the Marines way back in the day so it was nothing new to me. The hardest thing for me was getting the tonneau latch bolted back down. There are two black plastic stickers covering access holes at the center of the top's frame where it lays on the tonneau cover. You have to pry the top fabric up and peel off those stickers to get a socket wrench on the bolt heads. I spent three hours trying to start those bolts before I found the access holes. I suggested to Klaus that he should include that in his videos but he said the videos were too time consuming to make it worthwhile for him to redo. Maybe someone here will see this and save themselves a few hours time.
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About my name: I occasionally play a Conn 10M Tenor Saxophone - so 10MPlayer Last edited by 10MPlayer; 02-15-2022 at 12:04 PM. |
09-12-2022, 08:48 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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12-20-2022, 02:54 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: May 2013
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Quote:
I tried to upload a photo but can’t figure out how. The access holes are in the aluminum frame right above the bolt locations. They’re right in the center of the frame below the rear window. It’s been a while now but I recall you have to put the top about half way down to get some slack in the fabric then you can carefully pry the fabric up enough to get a socket through the hole. I think I put a small wad of blue masking tape inside the socket to hold the bolt in place then slipped the socket, bolt and a short extension into the hole. From there it was fairly easy to get the bolts started. A picture would be worth 1000 words but I can’t figure out how to do it. Duh! Oh, it came through. Okay. Enjoy.
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About my name: I occasionally play a Conn 10M Tenor Saxophone - so 10MPlayer |
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