Like the title says, this is for the 5th Bow Bungee kit 971F6-1ET2A. If you are comfortable drilling holes, removing trim and molding, measuring and making adjustments, and turning a
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03-08-2020, 08:32 AM | #1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 4,077
Drives: 2010 370z Roadster
Rep Power: 2684369 |
DIY 5th Bow Bungee kit 971F6-1ET2A Install
Like the title says, this is for the 5th Bow Bungee kit 971F6-1ET2A.
If you are comfortable drilling holes, removing trim and molding, measuring and making adjustments, and turning a screw driver, this project shouldnt be too bad. Just time consuming. I wont be doing a step by step, as the install instructions is like 60 some odd steps. Instead, Ill be posting my notes as to what gave me problems, issues, etc. Ill be adding to this post as I progress in the install. If anyone is performing this install and has any questions, let me know. PM me and Ill shoot you my cell. Tools needed: -T20 Torx possibly a T30 Torx key depending on the model year of your Roadster -Small Flathead screwdriver -Phillips screw driver (One of my Torx screws had a phillips head screw on it) -Small needle nose pliers -Molding/panel removal kit (optional) but better to use than risk breaking plastic molding/weather stripping with a screw driver -Drill -13/64 Drill bit -5/32 Drill bit -Rivet Gun -Torque wrench in in/lb -Measuring device. I used calipers Reference the install PDF files posted by gryghst Bungee Kit and then some I found a website that has colored pics in the instructions. MUCH easier to see. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...64659-0001.pdf Notes: -When youre removing the weather stripping from the rear window are, theres a plastic tab that will break. I believe this is the "one time use" tab that will break off. The parts bag has 2 of those tabs included. -Depending on the year your Z was manufactured,, step 12-Figure 11, may or may not apply to you, but the Torx head was on the backside. This is where I had to use a Torx key. It was a painfully slow process getting that screw off. Since the screw head was on the backside, it was pretty much like turning the screw blind folded. -Step 14/15. When you drill out the old rivet, make sure you also remove the old rivet sleeve from the hole. After I drilled out the rivet, I popped the top of the old rivet with a flat head and hammer and needle nose pliers. Then I drilled the hole along the sides and used a punch to pry out the sleeve. Youll probably need a hefty rivet gun, preferably pneumatic if you have a compressor. I used these from Harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-...tle-66422.html -Step 26. This step calls for removing a Torx screw. It was a little hard to find because I was looking for a Torx screw that was holding something down. I found it behind the b-pillar. It was there by itself not holding anything down. When attaching the ring strap support, it was a pain getting the Torx screw started. Theres not much space to hold it down while turning the screw. I had to hold the ring strap support reaching from the inside of the cabin and around the b-pillar. I suggest getting a flexible driver to tighten the screw. .
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04-30-2021, 04:00 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Georgia
Posts: 40
Drives: 2014 Nissan 370Z 7AT
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How was the install? Does the top work as it should now? Also, will be ordering a new soft top cover (outer) due to the window fraying the fabric, any ideas on how to go about it? Will be doing a complete DIY on the soft top cover replacement.
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04-30-2021, 08:43 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 213
Drives: 2016 RDSTR TS 6spd
Rep Power: 7996 |
Bunk,
THANK YOU! This is just what a lot of us are going to need somewhere down the line ... and it is most appreciated that you took the time to post the procedure hints and tips. Can we ask that you add your next installments onto this same thread in order to keep everything together? Great job! Gene |
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