Rear Latch: How to manually work it

Omb

Sooo...my top isn’t working Anybody know how to get the rear latch for the top to operate manually? It sits on top of the latch and leaves a 1/4 gap.

vman12

can you share a picture?

so the guy in this video below says you can lock the front latch using 5 milimeter wrench and leave the back unlocked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80LjJlXWBjw

gbhrps

Omb,

Your post is very confusing and not clear at all. What sits on top of the latch and leaves a 1/4 inch gap?

Are you saying that your top is partially unlatched and the 5th bow sticks up a 1/4 inch above the storage compartment lid, but is still locked and won't move or release any further?

As well, your owner's manual gives a step by step method for manually opening and closing the top. Have you tried that?

The most common top failure as our cars age is wires in the harness break at the hinge points of the top mechanism from the flexing when opening and closing. Bend as wire enough times ... and it breaks. Take your wiring harness outer cover apart at the hinge points and check it out.

Go to "tophydraulics.com" (as in the above video). They have 5 or 6 videos that walk you through the common issue with the tops on our cars. You can learn a great deal there.

Get back to us on how you make out, and remember to be specific when detailing what has happened and what you've tried. Assuming that we will know what you're describing just isn't going to help us understand and help you find a fix.

Gene

SouthArk370Z

If you don't have an Owner's Manual to lookup the method gbhrps mentioned, you can download a PDF from NissanUSA.com.

The FSM has lots of great info. Link in my sig.

__________________
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Omb

OK...thanks for the replies. I think I have it figured out

The original problem was the top was not closing or opening all the way. It would get stuck almost close or almost open. (*Consistent with the wire fraying issue). I wanted to close it up for the night but the rear latch for the 5th bow striker plate was in the closed position so the bottom of the cover would not sit flush. I was able to manually move the hydraulic ram with my fingers and that opened the latch so that the back of the top would sit flush.

So..if anyone else has that problem, just manually move the ram with your fingers. Its a little hard to grab and what not but it eventually moves

Anywho...I then looked at the wiring in the classic spot on the drivers side and it was frayed on 2 of the wires. I will get me some wiring today and hopefully all will be well.

I am a lot more confident with the top at this point. I mean, even if/when it all goes to crap I can still operated it manually faster than a jeep top. In the end, a Targa or T top is the answer. That smoothline hardtop looked great but he will probably never produce it and you are always left with the question of what to do with the top when its off.

Thanks!

gbhrps

Omb,

Glad to read that you have it mostly figured out. Those Top Hydraulics videos are a real insight to trouble shooting our top issues.

I'm curious as to what year your Z is, and to how many times you think the top has been up and down.

I'm trying to gauge when my top wiring harness should be explored for frayed wires, in order to prevent a future problem. At present I try to cycle the top up or down as little as possible to prevent wire breakage, say perhaps 2 dozen times a year, as this car will be a long term keeper. I kept my last Z 27 years, and I hope to pass this one on to a nephew when my body says I can't cope with the car any more.

Gene

Omb

Ok. All fixed. Spliced in some new wire and it works again. We shall see if it holds.

Mine is a 2014. I’ve had it a year. I’ve maybe opened it 30-50 times.