Hey guys I just bought 2010 370z yesterday that is nissan cpo I just got in my car trying to get to home depot so I can buy a rubber
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03-23-2014, 09:27 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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The car won't start!!..
Hey guys
I just bought 2010 370z yesterday that is nissan cpo I just got in my car trying to get to home depot so I can buy a rubber insulating tape to cut the brown wire for steering lock fix. But I think it's either my car just had steering lock failure or my car battery is dead. I am not sure which one. Last night the battery was at 12V. When I got in my car I pressed down on my brake and it felt stiff... and I pressed down clutch and the car started rolling down as it was on slight downhill parking lot which I thought was weird why isn't brake working. Anyway I pressed start button and it made a couple of attempts but it wouldnt. Now if I get in a car the lock button would just come up in red. No other things..and when I step on clutch and press start nothing happen just lock button lights up again. The car door won't lock either. Will simple jump get my car going? |
03-23-2014, 09:57 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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Does sound like battery issue. Jump car.. Get to autozone .. Purchase new battery....then have fun!
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03-23-2014, 10:13 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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Try these:
1) Check the battery in the fob. I'd go ahead and replace it "just because" - they're cheap and easy to replace. Edit: Put the fob in the "fobgina". If the car starts, then it's the fob battery. 2) Check the clutch pedal switch. Judging by what I've read on this site, switch failure is not that common but it's not really rare either. 3) Beat on the ESCL with your fist or a rubber mallet. If it frees up, then cut the wire (or pull the fuse; see below). A fully charged car battery should read about 13V (13.2V if everything is perfect). If you made several attempts to start, 12V isn't that bad but I'd put a charger on it before making more start attempts just to make sure. Not sure what the deal with the brakes is. I'm guessing that you aren't used to the car yet and just need to push the pedal a little harder. Cutting the wire is, for all intents and purposes, permanent. Pulling the fuse is not very difficult and you can always put the fuse back in if needed. Personal choice, I guess; nothing wrong with cutting the wire. Just make sure to insulate the bare ends of the wires (due to the lack of room in that area, I'd suggest using heat-shrink tubing/caps).
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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma Last edited by SouthArk370Z; 03-23-2014 at 10:20 AM. |
03-23-2014, 10:57 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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Hey guys. Thanks a lot for the replies. Turns out it was just a dead battery. Now I am wondering if I can cut the wire while the engine is on? Also how long should I drive to charge the battery and at what rpm? I am so new to manual and I still stall my car at times. .......idk if i should just rev my engine at neutral for like 10 min?
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03-23-2014, 01:42 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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That's not the IPDM. See the link in my sig for links to DIYs.
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Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma |
03-23-2014, 01:45 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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When you're looking at the battery (facing the car), it's in the fuse box to the left (towards the passenger fender). You have to remove the plastic cover around the battery to get to it. It's clearly labeled as the steering lock as well.
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03-24-2014, 02:34 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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I'm a fan of using a battery charger to bring a battery back up to full charge. Set the charger for 2A and let it go overnight.
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