Ever since having some work done at the dealer I have had a problem with sometimes during hard acceleration the e-brake light comes on (on the dash). The weird thing
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03-03-2013, 08:56 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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E-Brake light.
Ever since having some work done at the dealer I have had a problem with sometimes during hard acceleration the e-brake light comes on (on the dash). The weird thing is that the message doesn't pop up saying the e-brake is on on the trip computer thing (like what happens if you actually pull up the ebrake a little bit (enough to cause the light to come on) during actual driving, just the red light at the top comes on.
Anyone have any idea what could cause this? Another problem I had after the dealer worked on it was when opening the doors the windows would come down a bit (like normal) but shutting the door would never cause the windows to go back up. They did fix that issue though. |
03-03-2013, 09:30 PM | #2 (permalink) | ||
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03-07-2013, 12:02 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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I do have the same problem. It happens under medium to hard acceleration. First the brake light comes on,(just as it happens to you) and if I stay on the gas any longer (two seconds or more) after the brake light comes on, the VDC light starts to blink. There are two VDC lights on the warning/indicator lights section. The two of them are identical in shape, the top light blinks and is a soft yellow color. The bottom one comes on when the VDC is deactivated. Well, in my situation as stated before, the brake light comes on, then the top VDC light blinks and finally the bottom (brighter yellow) VDC light comes and stays on. Upon restarting the vehicle the lights are all no longer present.
I admit, recently I removed the front calipers and rotors to resurface the rotors. Also I removed the rear calipers and rotor to adjust the parking brake slack. I'm 100% sure everything was installed correctly and "good and tight". I will double check this weekend to make sure nothing has come loose. Any advice or good and sound ideas are welcome!!!!
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03-07-2013, 03:31 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Its your brake fluid. Had that problem with my 350z. Under hard acceleration or anything above 3500rpms the light would come on. Topped off the brake fluid and it went away. GL
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03-07-2013, 08:58 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Brake fluid: almost certain.
Check the forums, there's a fix to the window issue. I had the same thing when I pulled the start button.
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03-10-2013, 12:26 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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The brake fluid? I have checked my fluid level and is well with in the high mark. But, since I asked for a help, and you are giving a solution I will top off my level and recheck. Thank you much.
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03-10-2013, 12:35 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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For the window issue, look in the owners manual. It will tell you how to reset the window memory settings. Everytime the battery is disconnected, it errases the memory settings for the window. That's why it only goes down a bit everytime you open the door and won't go back up.
If I remember correctly it goes like this: Get in car, close the doors, turn the ignition to acc, pull up on the driver side window switch and hold it (up) for 10 to 15 seconds, Then repeat the same step for the passenger window. Turn ignition off, get out of car and check as you close the doors the windows should go up. I hope i got correctly.
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03-10-2013, 02:51 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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03-11-2013, 02:30 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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I guess I'm an overachiever or was my OCD kicking in once again. Thanks for the correction!
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03-14-2013, 09:59 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Mr. nitrous and Mr. CDepp, you were correct. I filled the reservoir back to full and the problem is gone. Thank you again!. I could not believe it, the reservoir was between the high and the low mark, so that's why it never ocurred to me the fluid was low.
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04-19-2014, 02:23 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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Interestingly enough after them flushing the break fluid more than once the problem persisted but it looks like it *finally* went away after I got my break pads replaced yesterday. I haven't driven it quite enough or hard to be 100% the problem is gone but it looks like its finally gone away meaning the VDC is actually usefull again... Before 90% of the time the VDC would turn itself off within 5 minutes of driving (especially if the weather was colder).
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04-20-2014, 12:43 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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I have the same issue that occurs.
I can just top off the brake fluid? which one should I use or for better words which one came from the factory? I read the brake fluid thread and it looks like valvoline synthetic is good if I don't regularly track the car. Can I just top off with this if the existing fluid looks ok? Last edited by kittens; 04-20-2014 at 01:26 PM. |
04-20-2014, 08:50 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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As your brake pads wear, the pistons in the caliper move farther out, more fluid moves in to fill the void, and the brake fluid level drops. If you had a leak you'd know right away, trust me. So, that's where the brake fluid goes when the level in the reservoir drops.
All brake fluid is synthetic, just use dot 3/4 fluid, it'll mix with the existing. It wouldn't hurt to pull all the fluid out of the brake reservoir and replace it with new. PS: Make sure that when you change the brake pads (when you eventually do), that you pull all that extra fluid out of the reservoir before you compress the calipers to install the new pads, all that fluid will move back into the topped off/full reservoir and pour all over the place. |
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