New Purchase/Lists

CivilPenny

Alright guys, this is my first post on the site. I've been waiting a while now so lets get to some of the questions I have about my car.

I picked up a 2012 370z sport touring a couple months ago with 50k miles. It is now my summer daily and I have an old man 2002 concorde limited for winter..nice and cozy.

There's a lot I have to talk about, but here are some questions/concerns

-Notchy shifting feel
-Wheel bearing/rotor going bad(how do I tell exactly?) I have the wheel bearing but would like to know where to order good rotors. Not the cheap kind that rust..such as a simply COATED metal.
-Ticking feeling when clutch is depressed/inconsistent little tick (Mas Cyl maybe?)
-A slight "click" when letting clutch engage
-Bottom low running lights are all out aside from 1 (After market I believe)
-What oil should I be using? (I stay in Mid-Michigan)

Much more to come. Any help would be awesome, thanks!

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Ghostvette

https://www.amazon.com/TRQ-Bearing-M...12+Nissan+370Z

Wheel bearings. At that price, do both at the same time.

Since there are lots of unknowns on this car (unless you knew the previous owner), I'd consider clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, CSC, CMC and pilot bushing as either a winter project (presuming you have the room and are mechanically adept or know someone) or finding a reputable shop that will let you bring your own parts. I'd do that sooner, rather than later.

Advance Auto Parts sells the painted rotors in stock sizes. If there are none there, check with the other retailers. You will pay a little more at a parts store, but again, compare with Z1 (be sure to add shipping, them jewels are hefty)

Change the trans fluid and differential fluid to Redline, or Motul. Lots of threads/discussion on many threads. Search is your friend.


Congrats on the car. Good luck and be careful out there.

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mishuko

Welcome to the z. That adresses all your concerns. I call then characteristics

A-A-ron

Unfortunately buying any used car comes with the inherent risks.

I picked up my Z with only 13k on the clock, and have been lucky to avoid any issues thus far (almost 30k miles later).

I'll attempt to help you with your DRL situation.
https://conceptzperformance.com/evo-...ed_p_32202.php
Replacement LEDs (sold per bulb, not per set) for what look to be EVO-R lights you have there. There is probably somewhere else to find them cheaper/more complete, but that was the easiest to find and point you at least in the right direction to what you need as far as that item.

Shame because I need a new front bumper and really like the 15+ NISMO front end, but shelling out $1200 for the factory DRLs is not happening and it seems the decently priced alternatives don't seem to last... oh well... I really wanted that Amuse front end anyways

Best of luck! And keep us updated in an appropriate subsection here

Rusty

NAPA also has the coated rotors.

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CivilPenny

Sounds expensive...good thing I've been saving up lol. Hopefully I will have access to a car lift soon which would do me wonders. As for now, I'll go get the other wheel bearing pronto and get on it Thanks for all the tips

Sway

First post covers it. I have the Z1 2 piece rotors and love them. But they are a pretty penny.

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SouthArk370Z

Yep. While you've got the car in the air and the tools out, change 'em both. A pretty good rule-of-thumb for most "symmetric" parts.

At the very least, get the CMC/CSC/piping flushed/inspected. The 370Z is a great car but the clutch hydraulics is a definite weak point.

Many good choices as far as lubes go. No matter which lube you choose, I highly recommend going ahead and changing them.
I like to change (or, at the very least, inspect) ALL the fluids in any used car I buy. From differential to windshield washer and all points in between.

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bthomas87

I've owned a couple 370z's and from my previous experience...
Bought both of them New.

(Notchy shifting feel)
Normal, and one of things I liked about how it shifted

(Wheel bearing/rotor going bad(how do I tell exactly?)) Jack up that side and try see if there is any play in the wheel when you try and shake it around. If it shakes its bad and needs replaced, no shake.. something else in the suspension/steering that should be checked by someone who knows what it's all about.
Also could be the factory brake rotor is bad, to me the OEM rotors suck and didn't last past 25k miles on either of my Z's. I upgraded to Z1 2 piece rotors and some quality pads.

(Ticking feeling when clutch is depressed/inconsistent little tick (Mas Cyl maybe?)
Felt that before in both my Z's and I ignored it, never had an issue.

(A slight "click" when letting clutch engage)
Where's the click coming from?
Mine was clicking and it turned out to be the U joint, which is under warranty and there's also a tech bulletin out in it for dealers and shops, they just rotate it 180 degrees and it goes away.

(Bottom low running lights are all out aside from 1 (After market I believe)
Check the wiring, if aftermarket it's ify... OEM replacements are $$$$$!

(What oil should I be using? (I stay in Mid-Michigan))
Very controversial and touchy subject there.
Just use name brand synthetic.
I live in Cincinnati and I just used the OEM recommended 5w-30 and I changed it religiously every 3k miles, and after every trip to the track/strip.

Keep in mind, the Z is a true sports car (old school sports car by today's standards) and it's gonna make noises and you'll be able to feel the car working when you drive it.
That's what makes these cars so fun. Enjoy it!

gbrettin

Look up Great Lakes Z Club on Facebook. Outside of that, sounds like you have all your answers.

FYI - I'm from Mid Michigan too.