Hey guys, I have a 2010 MT Roadster with just over 80k miles. It has been a no drama ride so far. Lately though I'm finding if I accelerate moderately,
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02-27-2017, 09:08 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Brake and traction control light staying on
Hey guys,
I have a 2010 MT Roadster with just over 80k miles. It has been a no drama ride so far. Lately though I'm finding if I accelerate moderately, like to pass someone, I get the e-brake light to show up and then it goes off. If I really get on the gas hard, both the e-brake light and the traction control lights illuminate and stay on until I turn the car off and it resets next time I start it. Anyone have any ideas what is going on? I was thinking maybe the ABS sensors are junked up with brake dust or something? Brakes are all original. Thanks in advance any ideas you may have... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02-27-2017, 09:10 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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First thing I'd do is check the brake reservoir level. Make sure it is to the top of the FULL line.
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02-27-2017, 09:33 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Just checked both brake fluid reservoirs and they are just about halfway between Min and Max on each. I'll try topping them off tomorrow with fresh fluid and see if that helps. Although I don't notice much brake fade with the pedal, but who knows, maybe this is causing it.
What brake fluid should I buy? I can go to the dealer and get some but it would be easier to top them off with fluid from a store if they have an equivalent. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02-27-2017, 10:40 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
For a DD, as long as it meets the specs in the Owner's Manual, you'll be OK. For higher performance fluid recommendations, search is your friend.
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02-27-2017, 10:40 PM | #5 (permalink) | |
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02-28-2017, 08:28 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Same thing happened to me. Problem was it was while on track.
Finished that session with no problems and checked brake fluid level. Half way between min and max. Next session on second lap my traction control shut down and my *** end was kicking out on down shifts if the car wasn't going in a straight line. Pulled off track and was done for the day. Saw my mechanic and he suggested filling the reservoir to the top. In the mean time he pulled the plug and wire connected to the reservoir and everything went back to normal. Once I got some more of my Motul 660, I filled the reservoir to the max level put the plug back in and the issue has not re-appeared. Last edited by Tedmeister; 02-28-2017 at 08:29 PM. Reason: spelling |
03-09-2017, 03:17 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Just a quick update and thank you to all that posted!
I finally was able to take the Z out for a spin today after topping off both reservoirs and so far so good! Doesn't seem to have the "sticking" brake light/traction control light anymore. Next up will be to gather up the parts to do a fluid change since it has never been done. Probably a good time to also swap out pads and calipers while I'm at it. Thanks again everyone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
03-09-2017, 03:30 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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The touring model should have the akebono calipers.
I did my brake and clutch fluid just around 24000km I'm just around 48 now and will be doing them again in the spring. The manual is a good reference point for maintenence schedule. For your pads... depending on mileage you shouldn't need to. My pads have about 20k on them and they looked new when I was gonna swap for posi quiet. I spirit drive, daily occasionally and did a road trip with 3 dragon runs. The oem pads aren't bad for street Aslong as you're not tracking. |
03-09-2017, 08:04 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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03-09-2017, 10:49 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Hi
Had this happen to me a few months ago. Reservoir for bakes was fine - problem ended up being an ABS sensor needing to be replaced (long chord doo-hicky attached to the shock tower) Hope that helps. Cheers
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03-11-2017, 01:36 PM | #11 (permalink) | |
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Thanks in advance.
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