Rear rotor removal

Z_ealot · 02-27-2016, 11:46 PM

Ok so first thing....was going through and replacing the rotors on my Z, front one's were a breeze and just had to use a little force with a sledgehammer to knock the rotor loose as it looks like the rotors have never been replaced and were fused to the hub with rust. Went to the back rotors and that is where the problems began, aside from the rotors having the same rust issue i could not for the life of me get the bolts that hold the caliper to loosen up even after hitting them with liquid wrench and going at them with my 350lb/ft impact wrench. Would anyone else have any suggestions on how to go about getting those bolts out or should i just give up and take it to a shop?

Trips · 02-28-2016, 12:04 AM

I would try the closed side of a combination wrench, and position it about 2 or 3 o'clock then hit it with small Thor hammer.

Make sure to hold the wrench in place while striking it.

Z_ealot · 02-28-2016, 12:33 AM

Might have to do that trips, just sucked cause i actually thought about yhat today, but yhen realized im either missing or never had a 19mm combination wrench so will probably be going shopping tomorrow lol

Trips · 02-28-2016, 01:16 AM

You can position a 1/2'' 19mm socket and ratchet in the same position and use that to break it loose since it's the same idea.

I just used the combination as option.

Z_ealot · 02-28-2016, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trips

You can position a 1/2'' 19mm socket and ratchet in the same position and use that to break it loose since it's the same idea.

I just used the combination as option.

Does the suspension have to be under load to get to the bottom bolt? I only ask cause i noticed that a trailing arm is conveniently in the way of that bottom bolt

gomer_110 · 02-28-2016, 11:49 AM

I've always had mine unloaded. It's tight but absolutely doable.

I've always had good luck doubling up combination wrenches to get better mechanical advantage. Here's a random example pic I found online of it.

Z_ealot · 02-28-2016, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110

I've always had mine unloaded. It's tight but absolutely doable.

I've always had good luck doubling up combination wrenches to get better mechanical advantage. Here's a random example pic I found online of it.

Yeah, thought about doing that, but then realized i was down a 19mm wrench

pretty sure the bolts are torqued over spec on the caliper as from what I've heard they should come off with a little over 100ft/lb of torque....that or they're rusted in place. All i know is that since i couldnt get the bottom bolt out i tried on the top bolt and ended up starting to round off the edges of the bolt at which point i stopped trying as i wanted to leave enough of an edge in case i needed to take it to a shop

Duc_Z09 · 02-28-2016, 02:41 PM

Try heat. That's my last ditch resort after air, PB blaster, and tons of leverage doesn't work. Also... It may sound stupid, but confirm that you're torquing it in the correct direction. Lots of people go the wrong way from time to time, especially on things like caliper bolts where you're facing the threads and not the head.

Z_ealot · 02-28-2016, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duc_Z09

Try heat. That's my last ditch resort after air, PB blaster, and tons of leverage doesn't work. Also... It may sound stupid, but confirm that you're torquing it in the correct direction. Lots of people go the wrong way from time to time, especially on things like caliper bolts where you're facing the threads and not the head.

Lol i thought the same thing about maybe i was turning it the wrong way, tried turning it both ways and no go

tried searching through the forums too to see if i was missing something but came up empty handed with the exception of two threads, both of which ended without answers

Duc_Z09 · 02-28-2016, 08:25 PM

Did you try heating the bolt up with a torch? Acetylene works best but you might be able to get it with propane. The heat will get the bolt to expand, breaking whatever rusted-on contact it has with the threads. Make sure you get the bolt head cherry red before putting the wrench to it and make sure to wear heavy welding gloves in case you accidentally touch it. And obviously don't burn through any brake lines, bushings, paint, etc.

Good luck, I hate stuck bolts!

One more thing. If some jackass previous owner happened to put the caliper bolts on with loctite or something the torch will melt it away.

Duc_Z09 · 02-28-2016, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trips

You can position a 1/2'' 19mm socket and ratchet in the same position and use that to break it loose since it's the same idea.

I just used the combination as option.

True, but I really hate to use my ratchets as breaker bars. The closed-end wrench will fit into tighter spaces, apply force more directly, and most importantly won't break.

Spooler · 02-29-2016, 01:23 AM

Use the doubled up wrench's with the box end on the bolt. Take a BFH and wack the end wrench carefully. It will pop loose.

02-27-2016, 11:46 PM	#1 (permalink)
Z_ealot A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 2,045 Drives: 09 370Z Touring/Sprt Rep Power: 10091	Rear rotor removal Ok so first thing....was going through and replacing the rotors on my Z, front one's were a breeze and just had to use a little force with a sledgehammer to knock the rotor loose as it looks like the rotors have never been replaced and were fused to the hub with rust. Went to the back rotors and that is where the problems began, aside from the rotors having the same rust issue i could not for the life of me get the bolts that hold the caliper to loosen up even after hitting them with liquid wrench and going at them with my 350lb/ft impact wrench. Would anyone else have any suggestions on how to go about getting those bolts out or should i just give up and take it to a shop?

02-28-2016, 12:04 AM	#2 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,730 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	I would try the closed side of a combination wrench, and position it about 2 or 3 o'clock then hit it with small Thor hammer. Make sure to hold the wrench in place while striking it. __________________ Last edited by Trips; 02-28-2016 at 12:29 AM.

02-28-2016, 01:16 AM	#4 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,730 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	You can position a 1/2'' 19mm socket and ratchet in the same position and use that to break it loose since it's the same idea. I just used the combination as option. __________________ Last edited by Trips; 02-28-2016 at 01:21 AM.

02-28-2016, 11:49 AM	#6 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36941	I've always had mine unloaded. It's tight but absolutely doable. I've always had good luck doubling up combination wrenches to get better mechanical advantage. Here's a random example pic I found online of it. gbrettin and Rusty like this. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

02-28-2016, 02:41 PM	#8 (permalink)
Duc_Z09 Track Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Frederick MD Posts: 876 Drives: With the blinker on. Rep Power: 23	Try heat. That's my last ditch resort after air, PB blaster, and tons of leverage doesn't work. Also... It may sound stupid, but confirm that you're torquing it in the correct direction. Lots of people go the wrong way from time to time, especially on things like caliper bolts where you're facing the threads and not the head. __________________ 2009 370z #206 (all mods are Home Depot) 2009 Ducati 848 (full Ohlins, Termignoni, etc) 2003 Grand Cherokee (long arms, big tires, 4.56, lockers)

02-28-2016, 12:33 AM	#3 (permalink)
Z_ealot A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 2,045 Drives: 09 370Z Touring/Sprt Rep Power: 10091	Might have to do that trips, just sucked cause i actually thought about yhat today, but yhen realized im either missing or never had a 19mm combination wrench so will probably be going shopping tomorrow lol

02-28-2016, 08:25 PM	#10 (permalink)
Duc_Z09 Track Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Frederick MD Posts: 876 Drives: With the blinker on. Rep Power: 23	Did you try heating the bolt up with a torch? Acetylene works best but you might be able to get it with propane. The heat will get the bolt to expand, breaking whatever rusted-on contact it has with the threads. Make sure you get the bolt head cherry red before putting the wrench to it and make sure to wear heavy welding gloves in case you accidentally touch it. And obviously don't burn through any brake lines, bushings, paint, etc. Good luck, I hate stuck bolts! One more thing. If some jackass previous owner happened to put the caliper bolts on with loctite or something the torch will melt it away. __________________ 2009 370z #206 (all mods are Home Depot) 2009 Ducati 848 (full Ohlins, Termignoni, etc) 2003 Grand Cherokee (long arms, big tires, 4.56, lockers)

02-29-2016, 01:23 AM	#12 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,793 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Use the doubled up wrench's with the box end on the bolt. Take a BFH and wack the end wrench carefully. It will pop loose.

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