New Owner can you help with some questions?

[squad008]

Hi all, just got a 2013 touring manual with sport and nav. Had it about a week and love it so far. I have some questions that I'm sure most of you that have bought a new Z can answer. Any help would be appreciated:

1, no matter what temp it is outside my oil temp is always on 140 when it starts up. Is it bad to drive the car at this level or should I let it warm up for a while?

2. My last manual was about 6 years ago and it was a 10 yr old Hyundai Tiburon so this is a step up. That thing would redline around 5000 rpms and if you were at 3500 rpms you felt like you would destroy the engine. I find myself driving constantly at around 3500-4000 rpms (not reving) is this ok with this car? I hear the engine but it feels natural to have the car run this high when your not racing it.

3. Sport shocks I knew were going to be rigid, but do they ever break in or loosen up a little bit?

4. First tank of gas I'm going to get around 250 miles all local. Will the mileage get better?

5. Finally, this car is a lease, I get 39000 miles to use this thing and I plan on using every mile. Is it realistic to use this car in the winter? I was planning on using it except on days when it snows or there is snow on the ground. Am I dreaming or is this car fine to drive.

Thanks in advance

[122554]

1. Warranty
2. Yes
3. No
4. Maybe
5. Can't answer

[m4a1mustang]

Originally Posted by squad008

Hi all, just got a 2013 touring manual with sport and nav. Had it about a week and love it so far. I have some questions that I'm sure most of you that have bought a new Z can answer. Any help would be appreciated:

1, no matter what temp it is outside my oil temp is always on 140 when it starts up. Is it bad to drive the car at this level or should I let it warm up for a while?

2. My last manual was about 6 years ago and it was a 10 yr old Hyundai Tiburon so this is a step up. That thing would redline around 5000 rpms and if you were at 3500 rpms you felt like you would destroy the engine. I find myself driving constantly at around 3500-4000 rpms (not reving) is this ok with this car? I hear the engine but it feels natural to have the car run this high when your not racing it.

3. Sport shocks I knew were going to be rigid, but do they ever break in or loosen up a little bit?

4. First tank of gas I'm going to get around 250 miles all local. Will the mileage get better?

5. Finally, this car is a lease, I get 39000 miles to use this thing and I plan on using every mile. Is it realistic to use this car in the winter? I was planning on using it except on days when it snows or there is snow on the ground. Am I dreaming or is this car fine to drive.

Thanks in advance

1. Take it easy until the car gets to 180*

2. That's fine, although I tend to cruise at the highest gear I can for efficiency. The VQ makes a fair amount of torque for a V6 so it's fine humming along at 2,000 RPM.

3. No.

5. Yes, especially if you cruise a lower RPMs.

5. Yes, it's fine in the winter, but you should invest in the proper cold-weather (and/or snow rated) tires.

[2010ZilverZ]

Wel-come to the club ...

1) The outside temps have nothing to do with the oil temps ... that should rise as the car warms up

2) Yes it's all good

3) You'll get use to it

4) ?

5) Depends on the snow thats on the road ... I don't drive mine in the snow but thats me

[DEpointfive0]

Originally Posted by 122554

1. Warranty
2. Yes
3. No
4. Maybe
5. Can't answer

1. Gauge is broken, or... You're not driving hard enough
2. Yes (leads my to believe the gauge is broken)
3. The 370Z has an amazing ride quality, can't believe you're complaining
4. Not if you're driving at 3500-4000 miles
5. Depends on how well you can drive in the snow. A few guys have winter wheel/tire setups. Ask them

[Akbubba47]

1- have you ever seen it hotter outside than 140? Of course it will read low on start up.
2- that's low. I'm shifting at 4000-4500 not racing lol
3- normal wear and tear like anything else..
4- I get about 16 mpg out of mine. But it's modified and I drive with a heavy foot. It depends on your driving style and what octane.
5- your better off walking than even attempting to drive in even a dusting of snow. Unless you get really good snow tires, even then you are taking a huge risk. Rwd is not ideal for snow conditions.

[JARblue]

1. Your oil temp will be ambient temperature when allowed to cool long enough. The gauge doesn't start registering until it heats up past 140. I try to let the car warm up before I really get on it, but there have been plenty of times I didn't let it properly warm up mainly because I live adjacent to a 60 mph highway and it's a right turn with no merge lane.

2. I often do the same because, to me, that's really where the car feels like it wants to be. Also, for a DD, it's close enough to power band that you can get up easy, and engine braking is sufficient for most non rush hour traffic situations. I recently learned Nissan recommends shifting into 6th gear at 33 mph so I've been having some fun with that But of course 7300 RPM shifts are fun, too

3. I didn't notice anything, but I didn't get too nuts with the car during the 1200 mile break-in period.

4. It's all in how you drive it. As a DD I get well over 300 miles almost every tank, but I have been as low at 180 and high as 405. I also empty nearly all of the 19.1 gallon tank. Spirited driving and track time affect this tremendously.

5. With proper snow tires and driving skill and knowledge, absolutely

[fonzo179]

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

1. Gauge is broken, or... You're not driving hard enough
2. Yes (leads my to believe the gauge is broken)
3. The 370Z has an amazing ride quality, can't believe you're complaining
4. Not if you're driving at 3500-4000 miles
5. Depends on how well you can drive in the snow. A few guys have winter wheel/tire setups. Ask them

@Squad008
5. Winter Driving = OK.

Here in Fargo, we had 6 months snow and ice for winter. General G Max makes a tire that handles rather well. The BLIZZAK tires are okay, but no need to spend that much money. Just take it easy, and work the Traction Control. Sometimes its better to spin the wheels (like when at the stop light) and push through patiently.

[squad008]

Thanks for all the answers, its much appreciated, a few comments:

The oil gauge gets well over 140 when I'm driving haven't seen it go over 260 even when driving it hard, so it works, just didn't know if I should let the car sit a few minutes.

I'm not going to drive the car in snow. But when there is no snow on the ground I would assume it is fine in the winter?

Someone told me the shocks would loosen, I didn't believe them since sport suspensions should keep the car firm.

Thanks for the help, always appreciated.

[JARblue]

Originally Posted by squad008

The oil gauge gets well over 140 when I'm driving haven't seen it go over 260 even when driving it hard, so it works, just didn't know if I should let the car sit a few minutes.

I'm not going to drive the car in snow. But when there is no snow on the ground I would assume it is fine in the winter?

Someone told me the shocks would loosen, I didn't believe them since sport suspensions should keep the car firm.

Thanks for the help, always appreciated.

I would if it's not too inconvenient. You can drive it but don't rev high until it's warmed up to 180 like Mustang said.

Summer tires in cold weather can be a bit dicey so I would be careful about that. Tires have significantly less traction when cold (that's why you see burnouts before drag races).

I wouldn't expect much...

[m4a1mustang]

No need to let the car sit, you just want to take it easy (i.e. shift at low RPMs, don't use lots of throttle) until the car warms up (~180 oil temp).

The car comes with summer compound tires. It can be unsafe to drive them in cold temps, even on dry surfaces. They firm up in cold weather and lose almost all of their grip which can make the car dangerous to drive, especially before the tires have warmed up (and even then they won't have the grip they normally would in warmer weather).

If you plan to drive it in the winter (even if you don't drive in snow) it's a good idea to swap to tires that are designed to perform in cold temperatures. You don't HAVE to, but it's a good idea.

[squad008]

Originally Posted by m4a1mustang

No need to let the car sit, you just want to take it easy (i.e. shift at low RPMs, don't use lots of throttle) until the car warms up (~180 oil temp).

The car comes with summer compound tires. It can be unsafe to drive them in cold temps, even on dry surfaces. They firm up in cold weather and lose almost all of their grip which can make the car dangerous to drive, especially before the tires have warmed up (and even then they won't have the grip they normally would in warmer weather).

If you plan to drive it in the winter (even if you don't drive in snow) it's a good idea to swap to tires that are designed to perform in cold temperatures. You don't HAVE to, but it's a good idea.

Thanks I really appreciate it. Seems like switching out the tires would probably be best if I want to use it in the winter. If you guys don't mind, would you define cold weather? It is around 50 at night here right now going up to the 70's same temps as we have in Sept. Oct. Just wondering what would be the temps that I would want to change them at?

[m4a1mustang]

I usually switch from my summer set to my winter set when average highs drop into the 40s. So I'm usually on winter tires from late Nov/early Dec to sometime in March.