My Boosted Build to Help Others

teknoprep · 02-07-2021, 06:10 PM

I have wanted to post my build for awhile.. especially in hopes to help anyone else thats thinking of doing what my dumb *** has done so you don't run into the same issues.

Build List - 608 Wheel HP @ 15lbs boost
- Built Motor - 9:1 wiseco / Eagle Rods / .020 over bore (Alderman Automotive Machine)
- Built Automatic Transmission (Level 10) - many have said bad things but Pat has always continually fixed my issues when there were issues. Currently holding power. I enjoy working with Pat
- Quaiffe Rear Diff
- BC Racing Coil Overs
- Upgraded Sway Bars (Hotchkis)
- Front bumber is the Rowen 370z Bumper (reason for this was to increase area for air flow for cooling)
- 2 oil cooler s 10AN (1 in the drivers side air window (derale) and 1 in front of the Rad (34 row Setrab))
- 2 Auto Transmission coolers connected with -6AN (same config as above just 6AN and on passenger side)
- A/C removal
- AAM Competition Twin Turbo (i do not like AAM)
- Internal Wastegates on Borg Werner are not the best. I have upgraded by welding 1.5inch to external wastegates on both sides.. and then ran 1.5inch wastegate dump to back of car. This is much better for consistent boost levels
- CJ Motorsports Fuel Rails
- CJ Motorsports Dual Fuel Pump
- CJ Motorsports Oil Return Kit for Turbos
- CJ Motorsports Fuel Return Kit
- Radium Catch Cans for PCV
- Radium Fuel Surge Tank for Fuel Slosh issues on hard right turns
- walboro in tank 255 fuel pump
- Walboro in Surge Tank 450 fuel pump
- 6AM fuel lines
- CSF Radiator (might need to upgrade this)
- Moved the default intake for the AAM kit to inside the bumper area for colder intake as well as room for larger filters
- 1000CC injectors
- Tune done by Hok at J-Tune Performance
- Work done by APS in New Jersey and Hok at J-Tune Performance
- Recaro Speed Seats
- 305/30/R19 Rear
- 255/40/R19 Front
- z1 motorsports rear diff solid mount
- z1 motorsports rear diff cooling cover
- z1 motorsports upper and lower control arms
- z1 motorsports camber arms
- z1 motorsports motor mounts (with an auto use the stock mount for the trans)
- Motul 600 Brake Fluid
- z1 motorsports 3 peice front/rear rotors
- carbotech brake pads

my youtube channel is www.youtube.com/teknoprep
you can see me just starting now to do some time trials and HPDE's. I will be doing many more this year

with that said... i have had SO MANY issues with this car and the people that have worked on it. I have only listed those that i respect and continue to work with in the above list. If anyone has questions on how to get an automatic to have this power at the wheels and make it reliable i don't mine sharing thoughts. Cooling on a track is needed as i ran my trans on a single cooler up to limp mode where it won't shift anymore. With the 34 row setrab cooler we are able to max it at 270F and with the second trans cooler we are hoping to keep it under 240F always.

My oil temps on track stay under 240F

My Coolant temps are potentially a current issue but I have put trac spec hood vents in and hopefully that will help as well as the intake being moved from behind the rad to in front of the rad.. This should help in general with cooling. Coolant temps with just CSF would hit 248 on track and car would go limp pretty easily on a 90 degree day... not good... last races after mods car was staying under 230F coolant.

Brakes would boil brake fluid until i upgraded to motul 600.. this is a necessity

Any questions please ask as not too many have done this with an Automatic Transmission and I wanted to post so that if anyone had any questions with interest in doing something similar including tracking a 7AT car... just hit me up or post on this thread...

Thanks Everyone
-tek

Blizzak · 02-09-2021, 09:17 PM

600 wheel with the 7at? That's very impressive!!! Do you think all the issues you've had were worth it in the end? I could never see myself going forced induction on my Z, it just seems like a rabbit hole of never-ending problems... I'm getting nightmares already lol

teknoprep · 02-22-2021, 08:38 PM

Yes but only if you want to race it and show off

Otherwise a boosted street car will more likely break than not unless everything is done perfectly. I would shy away from doing it for a daily or weekend cruiser

As a bad *** race car for TT, Hill Climb, or track racing, yeah it's a lot of fun. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

DOOMMONKEY777 · 03-05-2021, 11:59 PM

Nice, but here what i would change on your build, the setrab oil cooler that is located btw the intercooler and the radiator needs to be removed it creates radiant heat for the intercooler and lowers cooling efficiency of the radiator, i bought like a cheap tube in a fin cooler and mounted it where the coolant reservoir was (moved the reservoir to a bottle style to mount it in a diff location) and i mount another one on the bottom of the radiator fans this increased my cooling just because of the finned hood that vented it all, i also suggest moving that driver side oil cooler if its in front of the air intakes.

I also dont approve of Z1 diff cover, in my exp, it did not deliver a sufficient amount of oil to the teeth of the ring and pinion, i had to rebuild it, i highly suggest the Nismo finned cover it has a much better oil pick up guides design.

I also have the borg warner wastegates welded shut, and have the external tial wastegates welded on the manifold, waaaay better i agree.

Also the AAM intercooler is a pice of ****, you need a better one by design i use the fast intensions intercooler it has less restrictions.

If you are not using the A/C then cut the condenser from the radiator to increase cooling.

One more thing wrap the intake pipes from the intercooler to the intake manifold in heat resistant wrap material, this will keep that cool air not being heated by the heat under the hood, be4 it gets to the manifold.

Elmo370z · 03-06-2021, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOOMMONKEY777

Nice, but here what i would change on your build, the setrab oil cooler that is located btw the intercooler and the radiator needs to be removed it creates radiant heat for the intercooler and lowers cooling efficiency of the radiator, i bought like a cheap tube in a fin cooler and mounted it where the coolant reservoir was (moved the reservoir to a bottle style to mount it in a diff location) and i mount another one on the bottom of the radiator fans this increased my cooling just because of the finned hood that vented it all, i also suggest moving that driver side oil cooler if its in front of the air intakes.

I also dont approve of Z1 diff cover, in my exp, it did not deliver a sufficient amount of oil to the teeth of the ring and pinion, i had to rebuild it, i highly suggest the Nismo finned cover it has a much better oil pick up guides design.

I also have the borg warner wastegates welded shut, and have the external tial wastegates welded on the manifold, waaaay better i agree.

Also the AAM intercooler is a pice of ****, you need a better one by design i use the fast intensions intercooler it has less restrictions.

If you are not using the A/C then cut the condenser from the radiator to increase cooling.

One more thing wrap the intake pipes from the intercooler to the intake manifold in heat resistant wrap material, this will keep that cool air not being heated by the heat under the hood, be4 it gets to the manifold.

I agree with everything here. There are a lot of holes in this build that should of been addressed. Would of prevented a lot of issues. Fast intentions uses some of the best intercooler on the market “bells intercooler”

teknoprep · 04-06-2021, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOOMMONKEY777

Nice, but here what i would change on your build, the setrab oil cooler that is located btw the intercooler and the radiator needs to be removed it creates radiant heat for the intercooler and lowers cooling efficiency of the radiator, i bought like a cheap tube in a fin cooler and mounted it where the coolant reservoir was (moved the reservoir to a bottle style to mount it in a diff location) and i mount another one on the bottom of the radiator fans this increased my cooling just because of the finned hood that vented it all, i also suggest moving that driver side oil cooler if its in front of the air intakes.

I also dont approve of Z1 diff cover, in my exp, it did not deliver a sufficient amount of oil to the teeth of the ring and pinion, i had to rebuild it, i highly suggest the Nismo finned cover it has a much better oil pick up guides design.

I also have the borg warner wastegates welded shut, and have the external tial wastegates welded on the manifold, waaaay better i agree.

Also the AAM intercooler is a pice of ****, you need a better one by design i use the fast intensions intercooler it has less restrictions.

If you are not using the A/C then cut the condenser from the radiator to increase cooling.

One more thing wrap the intake pipes from the intercooler to the intake manifold in heat resistant wrap material, this will keep that cool air not being heated by the heat under the hood, be4 it gets to the manifold.

The intercooler and z1 did cover will be looked at ASAP
As for the other stuff I have a slightly different approach for cooling. I'll update after a few track days once it's done. Should be ready in May

02-07-2021, 06:10 PM	#1 (permalink)
teknoprep Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: PA, USA Posts: 15 Drives: 13 Nissan 370z PW A7 Rep Power: 11	Auto 7AT Turbo Track Car Build to Help Others I have wanted to post my build for awhile.. especially in hopes to help anyone else thats thinking of doing what my dumb *** has done so you don't run into the same issues. Build List - 608 Wheel HP @ 15lbs boost - Built Motor - 9:1 wiseco / Eagle Rods / .020 over bore (Alderman Automotive Machine) - Built Automatic Transmission (Level 10) - many have said bad things but Pat has always continually fixed my issues when there were issues. Currently holding power. I enjoy working with Pat - Quaiffe Rear Diff - BC Racing Coil Overs - Upgraded Sway Bars (Hotchkis) - Front bumber is the Rowen 370z Bumper (reason for this was to increase area for air flow for cooling) - 2 oil cooler s 10AN (1 in the drivers side air window (derale) and 1 in front of the Rad (34 row Setrab)) - 2 Auto Transmission coolers connected with -6AN (same config as above just 6AN and on passenger side) - A/C removal - AAM Competition Twin Turbo (i do not like AAM) - Internal Wastegates on Borg Werner are not the best. I have upgraded by welding 1.5inch to external wastegates on both sides.. and then ran 1.5inch wastegate dump to back of car. This is much better for consistent boost levels - CJ Motorsports Fuel Rails - CJ Motorsports Dual Fuel Pump - CJ Motorsports Oil Return Kit for Turbos - CJ Motorsports Fuel Return Kit - Radium Catch Cans for PCV - Radium Fuel Surge Tank for Fuel Slosh issues on hard right turns - walboro in tank 255 fuel pump - Walboro in Surge Tank 450 fuel pump - 6AM fuel lines - CSF Radiator (might need to upgrade this) - Moved the default intake for the AAM kit to inside the bumper area for colder intake as well as room for larger filters - 1000CC injectors - Tune done by Hok at J-Tune Performance - Work done by APS in New Jersey and Hok at J-Tune Performance - Recaro Speed Seats - 305/30/R19 Rear - 255/40/R19 Front - z1 motorsports rear diff solid mount - z1 motorsports rear diff cooling cover - z1 motorsports upper and lower control arms - z1 motorsports camber arms - z1 motorsports motor mounts (with an auto use the stock mount for the trans) - Motul 600 Brake Fluid - z1 motorsports 3 peice front/rear rotors - carbotech brake pads my youtube channel is www.youtube.com/teknoprep you can see me just starting now to do some time trials and HPDE's. I will be doing many more this year with that said... i have had SO MANY issues with this car and the people that have worked on it. I have only listed those that i respect and continue to work with in the above list. If anyone has questions on how to get an automatic to have this power at the wheels and make it reliable i don't mine sharing thoughts. Cooling on a track is needed as i ran my trans on a single cooler up to limp mode where it won't shift anymore. With the 34 row setrab cooler we are able to max it at 270F and with the second trans cooler we are hoping to keep it under 240F always. My oil temps on track stay under 240F My Coolant temps are potentially a current issue but I have put trac spec hood vents in and hopefully that will help as well as the intake being moved from behind the rad to in front of the rad.. This should help in general with cooling. Coolant temps with just CSF would hit 248 on track and car would go limp pretty easily on a 90 degree day... not good... last races after mods car was staying under 230F coolant. Brakes would boil brake fluid until i upgraded to motul 600.. this is a necessity Any questions please ask as not too many have done this with an Automatic Transmission and I wanted to post so that if anyone had any questions with interest in doing something similar including tracking a 7AT car... just hit me up or post on this thread... Thanks Everyone -tek gbrettin, cv129, SG4247 and 2 others like this. Last edited by teknoprep; 02-07-2021 at 08:34 PM.

03-05-2021, 11:59 PM	#4 (permalink)
DOOMMONKEY777 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Crooklyn Posts: 1,008 Drives: 370Z 6psd-sport-pkg Rep Power: 21	Nice, but here what i would change on your build, the setrab oil cooler that is located btw the intercooler and the radiator needs to be removed it creates radiant heat for the intercooler and lowers cooling efficiency of the radiator, i bought like a cheap tube in a fin cooler and mounted it where the coolant reservoir was (moved the reservoir to a bottle style to mount it in a diff location) and i mount another one on the bottom of the radiator fans this increased my cooling just because of the finned hood that vented it all, i also suggest moving that driver side oil cooler if its in front of the air intakes. I also dont approve of Z1 diff cover, in my exp, it did not deliver a sufficient amount of oil to the teeth of the ring and pinion, i had to rebuild it, i highly suggest the Nismo finned cover it has a much better oil pick up guides design. I also have the borg warner wastegates welded shut, and have the external tial wastegates welded on the manifold, waaaay better i agree. Also the AAM intercooler is a pice of **, you need a better one by design i use the fast intensions intercooler it has less restrictions. If you are not using the A/C then cut the condenser from the radiator to increase cooling. One more thing wrap the intake pipes from the intercooler to the intake manifold in heat resistant wrap material, this will keep that cool air not being heated by the heat under the hood, be4 it gets to the manifold. JARblue and teknoprep like this. __________________ Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane** Last edited by DOOMMONKEY777; 03-06-2021 at 12:30 AM.

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02-09-2021, 09:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
Blizzak Base Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Atlanta Posts: 36 Drives: 2017 Nismo Rep Power: 3361	600 wheel with the 7at? That's very impressive!!! Do you think all the issues you've had were worth it in the end? I could never see myself going forced induction on my Z, it just seems like a rabbit hole of never-ending problems... I'm getting nightmares already lol

02-22-2021, 08:38 PM	#3 (permalink)
teknoprep Base Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: PA, USA Posts: 15 Drives: 13 Nissan 370z PW A7 Rep Power: 11	Yes but only if you want to race it and show off Otherwise a boosted street car will more likely break than not unless everything is done perfectly. I would shy away from doing it for a daily or weekend cruiser As a bad *** race car for TT, Hill Climb, or track racing, yeah it's a lot of fun. Let me know if you have any specific questions.