Headers: Long tube vs Short tube

Goinpostal

Hey guys,

I have a 2011 370..currently the only after market parts I have installed are a K&N short ram intake and a top speed cat back exhaust. Looking to purchase some new headers. What are the benefits of long tube headers vs short tube headers and vice versa?

Also looking for any other recommendations on "budget" performance upgrades. Thanks!

husam2012

Everything's out there, just gutta use the search function. But anyways, "short tube" don't give as much gains as the long tube headers but are way easier to install.

Long tube headers take at least 6 hours to install ($100/h at a shop) so not really worth it unless you do it yourself.

Also, Based on your mods, i'd recommend getting a better intake before getting any type of headers lol

Goinpostal

Okay thanks for the feedback. What would you consider a "better" intake and why?

SS_Firehawk

Shorties are just as much a pita to install. Z1 Shorties are the only ones worth the effort.

Fast intentions, PPE and motordyne have long tube that are nice, each having their own benefits.

Another intake isn't necessary, but cold air intakes are generally more beneficial. They make more power because it's not pulling hot engine bay air. Z1 has a great intake kit for the price.

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Goinpostal

Awesome, thanks for the info!

danegrey

I went with Shorties from Z1Motorsport, and got ready of the catalytic with test pipes they offered to fit it....

My reason, if I move to another state and had to have emission testing, could put the catalytic's back on

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Lots of Changes
the Z needs to be driven and driven hard for the car lives for it

Jordo!

Tons of data and commentary on various NA mods and tuning here: Proven Power Dyno Database Thread

Lots of details regarding LTH (and some thoughts on LTH vs. TP's) begin on p. 6 I think, but there's lots of dynos and info throughout that you may find of use in modding your Z.

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Elmo370z

For intakes you should look into admin tuning intakes. He claims 12 more peak hp over stillen G3's and 20 more hp in (i forgot what rev range) over stillen G3's, but it was also done with eps Tb's

Jordo!

On their site they offer 3" intakes and also larger TB's...

Do you know of a thread with independent dynos, ideally same dynamometer (and/or a dynojet), that show a clear stock baseline vs. G3 vs. theirs with details on tune?

I'm not flat out disputing the claim, but I have a feeling based on similar mods others on here have tried that you need both the 3" intakes AND the TB's + tune to see better results, whatever the magnitude might be.

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Elmo370z

I fully agree with you. He said he will conduct an independent test to compare on our platform.

madeinjapan

long tubes wont pass inspection

Chuck33079

That's not necessarily true. It depends on the state. Many states will pass you as long as there's no CEL.

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madeinjapan

Jordo!

Definitely check first tho'. Once they're on, no one will want to take them off.

Also, it's worth being prepared to purchase spare primary O2 (upstream) sensors on hand -- I'm not saying you should definitely buy them in advance, but be prepared to have some extra $$$ on hand at need. The O2's can get damaged pretty easily in removing them from the OEM headers, and symptoms (e.g., wonky fuel trims or CEL's) may not even show up right away.

There is a generic Denso part #234-9036
https://www.stockwiseauto.com/denso-...an&Model=370Z&

See also here -- the primary O2's sensors: http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/oxy...ssan/370z.html

Post-cat (downstream) ones can go bad too, but they're less of a concern (Denso part #234-4380 https://www.stockwiseauto.com/denso-...PAQ&ymm_gid=2& )

If you have any O2's fail on you after install, the above ones should work well, and be MUCH less expensive than buying from Nissan.

Keep in mind that the connectors may need to be re-spliced -- Nissan changed the connector for some reason on later MY's -- but you'd need to have splicing done anyway for the wire extenders that will need to be used with the LTH's.

Also, get heat shielding for those sensor wires -- like heat reflector wraps with zip ties or something.

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AlWakRa

I can confirm everything, I ran into them while installing Motordyne LTH. First one of the upstream sensors was molded to stock manifold, so we couldn't remove it, bought the same Denso sensor suggested and worked without issue, even no CEL.

Also the wiring of them needed to be longer to accommodate the new placement.

Finally, Motordyne can get you the same flexibility of short headers in changing cats, but they offer their own modules for it.

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