Internal upgrades

Akrobatik

At what stage/hp do you guys recommend upgrading pistons, rods and crankshafts?

Chuck33079

People seem to be running ~500whp with no issue. I start getting nervous over 400ft lbs, but I fall on the conservative side of things. A lot of people have been running 550whp+ for a long time with no issue.

__________________
2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

Nissan370

not sure on how strong the crank is but im using
eagle rods and weisco pistons (9:1cr) and the factory rod bearings
was told my build can hold 650-700rwhp no problem

__________________
370z vsr motorsports single turbo/built motor 9.1cr 525rwhp/450rwtq @ 10.5psi (stock maf maxed out)

theDreamer

It also depends on what you are planning to do with the car.
Recently had a guy on here with a stillen SC who drag raced his car, not making much under 500whp and ran into issues after awhile. Now has a built motor to continue drag racing.

__________________
theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN
theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY
Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

faceglide

99% of street builds shouldn't require any sort upgraded internals IMO.

Now, many major pitfalls that I believe have resulted on blown VQs:

*tune- I dont care who is putting together your tune, if you use a canned tune, or an e-tune without a VERY significant amount of datalogging, you are asking to blow **** up, do it right, get it on a dyno with a REPUTABLE VQ TUNER. it will be the singe greatest 600-2000 dollars you will ever spend on your car.

*cheap builds- some things aren't meant to to be skimped on, if you cannot pay the price to do it right, just enjoy this car na. it's not cheap, set your budget 2-3k what you are quoted, just do it..oh and DO NOT buy used parts for your shiny new TT/SC/turbo kit..if you are buying a used kit, do your research, know how many miles, who installed it, who tuned it, who maintained it etc etc. time is money, if you don't have the money, then put in more time

*install- you can do it yourself, but take your time, for the love of god. every bolt, every fitting, every pipe must be perfect, check clearances over and over. Way too many cars have blown an engine because something as simple as a vacuum line burnt up and the car saw 30lbs boost

*sensibility- lets not beat around the bush, user error and foolishness will kill a n/a engine, let alone destroy a forced induction application. Maintenance schedule is a simple thing so many get wrong. Know your limits. If you are running 91 octane and want to shove 14lpsi into the car, you are asking for it. One spike, one bad tank, one exceptionally cold day...pop, all it takes. If you really want to up the power, do it gradually and with the blessings of your tuner. Then, bring it back in, get it retuned and move on.


Only time will tell how much this engine can make. Things will get interesting here this year, both good and bad(success stories and failure stories alike). A built engine is not a requirement. But building one off to the side with whatever you can set to the side is a good insurance policy.

Chuck33079

You'll be fine if you get a good tune, buy all the supporting mods you need, keep everything cool and don't tune the car out to the ragged edge. If we're saying the limit is ~500whp, why not dial it back just a bit at the end of the tuning session? 480whp is still a lot of power and you added in a little headroom.

__________________
2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent