Need Help Wiring

Netguru3278

Ok so my build is almost done I did contact CJM and bought everything but fuel rails, Went with the twin pump drop in but I'm only running 1 450 Walbro at this time, also I went with 1300 ID's with a return system also planning to go full E85 at some point but I have the Flex sensor as well, but the Tuner wants to install that along with Boost Control Solenoid for ECUTEK when I get it to the Dyno for a tune, so I have been reading all the older threads and for some reason I am having issues understanding how to wire Deatschwerks Relay Harness in with this 2020 wiring harness any help would be appreciated as I have a feeling everyone on here has done it already but me, I hope I'm just over thinking it as it's just 6 wires but wanted to make sure I got it right being so new I haven't owned a older one but I read where they changed so I figured you guys have been right about every single thing you told me to begin with so why not get your help one more time if you guys don't mind that is. I'm attaching pictures also for reference, Also I can't thank CJM enough he pretty much held my hand through the whole purchase process explaining and training and I'm grateful as I'm sure he is very tired of me at this point, and he is very blessed with patience for people like me.

Attached Images

	OEM 2020 370z Fuel Pump Connector (1).jpg (452.7 KB, 53 views)
	CJM Connector Top (4).jpg (445.5 KB, 31 views)
	CJM Connector Bottom 2.jpg (591.9 KB, 28 views)
	Deatschwerks Relay (2).jpg (764.5 KB, 51 views)
	Deatschwerks Relay (1).jpg (818.6 KB, 28 views)

phunk

Follow the relay kit manufacture diagram, which just so happens to apply universally for any basic automotive 12v relay.

Terminal 85 (switch ground), connect this to any ground, original fuel pump ground, chassis ground, any will do.

Terminal 86 (relay switch), giving this wire battery power will turn the relay on. Usually people connect it to the original fuel pump power wire so that relay turns on at exact same time stock fuel pump wiring and relay would turn on the stock pump.

Terminal 30 (Battery power supply). Connect this to positive side of battery or some people already have large battery cables run for battery relocation and will connect it there.

Terminal 87 (power to fuel pump). Connect this to positive terminal on fuel pump to provide it with battery power when the relay turns on to bridge 30/87.

Run the fuel pump ground lead to a chassis ground to complete the circuit.

Attached Images

F6B2006D-7A08-4C27-9E22-42CDE6616388.jpg (51.0 KB, 39 views)

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jchammond

Nice Pump Assembly

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Netguru3278

Finally got the car cranked today and was able to set the fuel pressure at 52 psi the other problem is my fuel gauge doesn't work since the new pump assembly install I will try to swap wires around again tomorrow and see if I can get that fixed

Netguru3278

Car is fixed got lucky with Dyno Tune opening in 2 weeks I wonder what the car will make safely on 93; for now will it make 500HP or more and be reliable daily driver? Guess I will soon find out, Boosted Performance never disappoints hoping with complete return fuel system from CJM also helps I followed the same recipe as most stage 3 clutch and flywheel with delete kit from Joe @Z speed Boosted Performance single kit, CJM fuel kit with return, Fast Intentions full Exhaust, soon as I load a custom Rom on a Tablet I have center Tablet kit that replaces the cubby, plan to use that for Gauges Thanks for everybody's help its very much appreciated.

madwi

Almost identical setup to me; I have a blast with it.

Netguru3278

Any Dyno numbers?

Netguru3278

I was asking madwi if he had any Dyno numbers since he said his was almost the same as mine? Also did everyone drive their car to get tuned on a temporary tune?

Netguru3278

Car was Tuned at Dynosty in Louisville KY It made 565@ 11 psi

Boosted Performance Kit 64/67 Comp Turbo
CJM Fuel Return Kit also with Twin Pump Hanger but only running single 450
Injector Dynamics 1300's
Tuned with ECUTEK

madwi

Sorry I missed this. I am remote tuned by seb and I havent been on a dyno.

Netguru3278

No worries I was just curious, I was lucky they had a cancellation or otherwise I would have had to wait till January

yonskis671

Nice!

I have this same exact setup, and about to start the project this weekend! Apologies i know this is an older post, but just caught my eye as this is exactly what im looking at too for my Z. Just wondering, with the relay kit, does that mean no wiring will be needed from the Walbro 450 to the top hat wiring harness? And Im very new to wiring, but if you are running a Twin walbro 450 pump setup, would you need two relay kits?

Thank you in advance

phunk

The relay kits generally only address the power wire from the battery to the connector above the top hat. A Walbro 450 comes with its own wire pigtail pre-attached to the pump. Then there is an additional pigtail sold separately (but often included in vendor kits), that plugs into that first pig tail. This additional pigtail is what you will generally wire to the connector on the bottom side of your top hat. I have attached a picture to show what I mean. It displays the Walbro 450 with its integrated pigtail, and then an example of the additional pigtail you can purchase that plugs into the pump. This is everything you need for wiring between the pump and the bottom side of your top hat. You will most likely shorten that extra pigtail to be only a few inches long for this application.

Make sure to upgrade the pump ground wire above the top hat. You will probably have a section of larger wire from the relay kit left over that you cut off, and you can use this to ground the fuel pump to chassis. If the ground isnt equal to the power wire, upgrading the power wire doesn't really help you much.

For a twin pump.. you could theoretically wire both pumps to a single relay. This is assuming that relay is rated for the current of both the pumps combined, and assuming the battery lead for that relay is large enough for both pumps combined. The problem with this is that you will not have individual control of the pumps, and that is not ideal and not suggested. By having a separate relay for each pump, you can turn them on individually. This is called pump staging. You will ideally choose one pump to be the "primary" and this pumps relay should turn it on exactly as the stock relay would turn on the stock pump. You want it controlled by the original fuel pump circuit, so you use the original fuel pump wiring to activate your new larger relay for the primary pump. The secondary (or "auxiliary") pump should have its own relay that is activated just when you go into boost. This can be done using a Honeywell Hobbs pressure switch to close the relay activation circuit. Or in some cases you can use an ECU output programmed by your tuning software to do it, pending you have an available output and your tuner knows how to setup the software to do it. The purpose of pump staging is so that you are not idling and driving around town with 1200hp worth of fuel cycling your system. This would not only increase fuel temps and evaporative emissions, but it is actually a little difficult to regulate fuel pressure with such a high volume of unconsumed fuel to bypass from the system. It requires a very large regulator and return line, more so than off the shelf return fuel kits will come with.

I have attached a basic twin pump and twin relay wiring diagram. This diagram shows the most typical way people will wire twin pumps. I have done it this way, and I have changed it around some other ways. Once you become familiar with wiring relays you will realize there is a variety of ways you can do this. I will explain the small modification that I made from this diagram for the twin pump in my Mustang. So if you look at this diagram, there are 2 conditions that have to be met for the secondary pump to turn on. That is the original pump wiring needs to be activated, and the pressure switch needs to be activated. What I change for the second pump relay: I take terminal 86, and instead of connecting it to the original fuel pump wire just the same as the primary relay, I instead loop it right over to its own terminal 30 and splice it to the battery power. What this changes is that now the second relay only needs 1 condition to be met to activate, and that is closing pressure switch. The reason I like it that way, is because it allows me to do a very simple secondary fuel pump test. I can walk up to the car, pop the vacuum line for the pressure switch off the intake manifold, and blow into it to activate it (my switch is a 2psi switch, and that is already quite difficult to hit by blowing into it, so this wont work with higher pressure switches). So with the engine off, ignition off, fuel system off, I can blow into that hose and the secondary fuel pump lights up, I can clearly hear it without any background noise, and the fuel pressure gauge on the regulator flies up, and I just confirmed that my second pump and relay is working. This did actually save my *** once because the secondary fuel pump relay in my Mustang failed at some point, and I caught it with this exact test that I will do every so often before I drive it. Had I not caught it, I would have been running lean at full power until I just happened to look at the AF gauge and notice it, which may have been too late.

Attached Images

	DUALPUMPWIRING2.jpg (103.4 KB, 51 views)
	pigtail.jpg (313.7 KB, 23 views)

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