The overflow tank that comes with the 2012+ kits is this metal one shown below, however the instructions I recieved don't match this pressurized recirculating tank. I know that the
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08-31-2017, 08:09 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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2012+ Stillen Supercharger People Question
The overflow tank that comes with the 2012+ kits is this metal one shown below, however the instructions I recieved don't match this pressurized recirculating tank.
I know that the bottom port is a return line back to the coolant hardline on the driverside, PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG And the middle port is where it connects to the radiator overflow port, so does that mean that the top port, obviously a pressure release port, run.. no where? Where would I run the top port, like shown in the picture
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09-01-2017, 12:19 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Im pretty sure it just runs do dump on ground if it were to blow off it would mist or possibly drain coolant and you dont want that on your motor/headers so route it to street.
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09-01-2017, 08:10 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Wait so you deleted your engines coolant system that gets rid of air bulbs?
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09-02-2017, 01:25 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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Oh I see because you free up that front area once again with his kit, and that little stock oil cooler is a joke, is it easily removable?
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09-02-2017, 05:13 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Yes, it's just a sandwich plate that circulates coolant around it. If you get the Fast Intentions oil cooler kit for 2012+ (I got yelled at when an oil cooler was not part of my build originally haha), it includes a cooler delete portion. Its a coolant hose and two clamps as well as a double-male ended piece that holds their sandwich plate down and allows you to screw your filter to it.
I can take pictures of it and the coolant lines that you remove tomorrow when I can get to it if you'd like. |
09-03-2017, 12:04 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Yeah! I'd like to see that, and I don't do much racing and never track the car, just daily drive. But I have noticed my oil temp stays around 220-225 now, so I want a 25 row at least
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09-06-2017, 09:26 AM | #12 (permalink) |
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When taking this off, do you need to bypass the coolant hose with just a double ended male fitting?
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09-06-2017, 11:32 AM | #13 (permalink) |
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There is a coolant hard-line assembly bolted to the front of your oil sump which you also remove. Trace those lines back to their origin points and connect a hose between those two points and you will have successfully bypassed the oil cooler. I am trying to find the instructions that Fast Intentions emailed me to illustrate this, but I seemed to have misplaced it. As soon as I find it, I'll send you the picture of it.
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09-06-2017, 11:39 AM | #14 (permalink) | |
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You can cap those lines, no need to route a loop. I would recommend leaving the hardlines in should you ever decide to reinstall that oil cooler. I removed mine, and removed the lines... now I am reinstalling my OEM oil cooler and had to pull my GTM oil pan just to get those hard lines back in.
To preempt the follow-up question, it appears the OEM oil cooler was, for me, sufficient for a street car in FL with FI in conjunction with my high capacity oil pan. It also carries the added bonus of not pumping all my oil onto the street in the event of an unfortunate fender bender, should one occur.
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