Bypass Standard Insturment cluster for Alternator Charging

abm89 · 06-09-2021, 01:32 PM

This is a long shot. I tried searching for days to see if anyone has figured it out yet.

JARblue · 06-09-2021, 05:52 PM

Can you explain more what you're trying to accomplish? Trying to bypass the ECM control of the alternator? I think that can be done in the IPDM fuse box. But other than battery drain issues I'm not sure why you would do that.

abm89 · 06-09-2021, 06:08 PM

I want to be able to run the Haltech dash without having to re-locate the standard instrument cluster (keeping it connected). The car won't charge the battery if you disconnect the cluster, even though it will start and run. Most people who can run with only a datalogger/digital dash are on standalone, but I'm not interested in going that far, staying naturally aspirated.

I know Austin has done the relocation on his time attack car. Still, I have not found any documentation on whether ECUtek can override/control the alternator by itself or if someone re-wired the car successfully.

JARblue · 06-09-2021, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abm89

Still, I have not found any documentation on whether ECUtek can override/control the alternator by itself

A quick email to Seb should answer that question I would think.

abm89 · 06-09-2021, 06:20 PM

I'd feel bad about bothering him without buying anything lol. I already pinged him once about how he got the AFRs to work on Hotrodz's Dash.

THE BULL · 10-04-2022, 02:41 PM

Sorry to bring it back from the dead however the fix will be to add a resistor 400+ OHM resistor to this wire and the other end to power.

420OHM gives you a 14.3 so between 400-450ohms and you'll be OK.

Good luck!

06-09-2021, 01:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
abm89 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,386 Drives: 11 370Z \| 24 EL450 Rep Power: 64763	Bypass Standard Insturment cluster for Alternator Charging This is a long shot. I tried searching for days to see if anyone has figured it out yet. __________________ Complete Parts List: https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

06-09-2021, 05:52 PM	#2 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Can you explain more what you're trying to accomplish? Trying to bypass the ECM control of the alternator? I think that can be done in the IPDM fuse box. But other than battery drain issues I'm not sure why you would do that. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

06-09-2021, 06:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
abm89 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,386 Drives: 11 370Z \| 24 EL450 Rep Power: 64763	I want to be able to run the Haltech dash without having to re-locate the standard instrument cluster (keeping it connected). The car won't charge the battery if you disconnect the cluster, even though it will start and run. Most people who can run with only a datalogger/digital dash are on standalone, but I'm not interested in going that far, staying naturally aspirated. I know Austin has done the relocation on his time attack car. Still, I have not found any documentation on whether ECUtek can override/control the alternator by itself or if someone re-wired the car successfully. JARblue likes this. __________________ Complete Parts List: https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

06-09-2021, 06:20 PM	#5 (permalink)
abm89 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 1,386 Drives: 11 370Z \| 24 EL450 Rep Power: 64763	I'd feel bad about bothering him without buying anything lol. I already pinged him once about how he got the AFRs to work on Hotrodz's Dash. __________________ Complete Parts List: https://github.com/abm89/ztouge-build

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10-04-2022, 02:41 PM	#6 (permalink)
THE BULL Base Member Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Florida Posts: 217 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 26848	Sorry to bring it back from the dead however the fix will be to add a resistor 400+ OHM resistor to this wire and the other end to power. 420OHM gives you a 14.3 so between 400-450ohms and you'll be OK. Good luck!