Wire from cabin to front

nandosman

Can anybody point me in the right direction on what's the fastest way to throw a wire from the cabin fuse box to the front of the car (headlights), is there a thread where this has been discussed before? Sorry the search didn't yield any valid results.

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FI Non-Res Test Pipes | FI 18" Res CBE | Stillen Gen 3 CAI | Dynotuned @ Dynosty EcuTek 325 whp

SouthArk370Z

There is a hole in the firewall, behind the battery, where most (if not all) of the wiring passes through. It has a "rubber" boot but several people have poked a wire through there and resealed with RTV. At least one thread on this site - searching for "firewall" turned up some interesting titles.

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nandosman

Thanks South, this is exactly what I was looking for. Now just need to figure out how to remove all the trim in the middle....

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SouthArk370Z

You have to take all that trim off to get to the IPDM, also. Search for "IPDM" and/or "ESCL" and/or "steering lock".

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40 to 332

Not sure that you will have to remove all the trim in the middle. I've run wires several times from the rubber grommet behind the battery to the cabin fuse box in the driver's footwell simply by using a straightened out metal clothes hanger as a "feed" that is gently guided behind the centre console from the passenger footwell to the driver footwell. Once the leading end of the hanger reaches the driver's side, simply secure the wire(s) to the other end of the hanger and then continue to pull the hanger through with the wires attached. I usually make a small hook in the hanger using a pair of pliers and then secure the wire(s) through the hook and then wrap it with some electrical tape to keep the wire(s) secure. It may take a little patience to feed the hanger through, but it is possible. Note also that to get to the rubber grommet behind the battery, you will have to remove the battery cover and trim as well as the window pillar trim on the passenger side, which will allow room to lift out the battery to access the grommet. According to several posts, you do NOT want to remove the grommet as evidently it is very hard to re-install. Instead just cut a small hole in the grommet sufficient to fit the wire through using an exacto-knife. Once you've finished the job, seal up the hole using some RTV sealant as suggested by SouthArk.

nandosman

Why RTV tho, can't I just use electric tape?

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FI Non-Res Test Pipes | FI 18" Res CBE | Stillen Gen 3 CAI | Dynotuned @ Dynosty EcuTek 325 whp

redondoaveb

You want to make sure you get a water tight seal otherwise you stand a chance of rain water getting inside the car.

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SouthArk370Z

Electrical tape doesn't work well in high temperature environments, eg, under the hood of a car. The adhesive will melt and migrate. Makes a sticky mess.

If you do go with electrical tape, get a high quality brand such as 3M's Super 33+.

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canmark

I ran my wires through the driver side firewall
There is a spare grommet that can be used
That’s my wire harness that’s circled in red

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nandosman

That really only works on automatics. For manuals there is a whole lot going on in there, which leaves almost no space to work with.

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FI Non-Res Test Pipes | FI 18" Res CBE | Stillen Gen 3 CAI | Dynotuned @ Dynosty EcuTek 325 whp

nandosman

I ended up sealing with RTV as suggested, and wrapping with 3M electric tape on top.

__________________
FI Non-Res Test Pipes | FI 18" Res CBE | Stillen Gen 3 CAI | Dynotuned @ Dynosty EcuTek 325 whp

40 to 332

That grommet location can be very hard to access if you're driving a manual since the clutch master cylinder and associated hardware will be in the way. If you're driving an automatic, I would agree that you might want to choose that grommet as the access point as opposed to the grommet under the battery.