Hi Guys, Having bit of a problem and wanted to see if you guys can share your expertise here. Really don't want to get it towed to dealership... Car: 2014
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07-05-2018, 07:18 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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2014 Nismo Not Starting and Stuck on ON position
Hi Guys,
Having bit of a problem and wanted to see if you guys can share your expertise here. Really don't want to get it towed to dealership... Car: 2014 370Z Nismo Mileage: 11,900 I went on a work project for 3 months offsite and the car was in perfect shape when I left. Stayed in garage the whole time. This weekend I returned. Turned on the car and it barely cranked for the first time and didn't turn over, so I assume battery is dead. Went to AutoZone and got a new battery and nope that was not the issue. And now it doesn't even go to crank. Basically it's showing the Key light next to the intelliscreen and red key light blinks in speedometer but Nothing else works. What's weird is that it goes to ACC > Then ON > Then gets Stuck there, I cannot even turn it Off unless I unhook the battery terminal. -Does not lock or unlock with both key remotes. -Inserted the keyfobs in fobgina many times, but nothing! -Headlights will not turn on. -I don't even hear the beeps of door opened. -intelliscreen is dead, does not show the clutch image or anything except when you are far, it shows the insert key image. -Brakelights Do work -No guages or Audio System Turns on -No Response from windshield wipers It's a 2014 so I don't think it's a steering lock issue, opened the fusebox and that fuse is already not there. Can someone please chime in. I haven't seen this particular issue during my search here where it gets stuck on ON position and won't turn off and won't crank/start. |
07-05-2018, 07:52 PM | #3 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Thank you. Yes I had seen your thread too before posting, actually it's in my bookmark. But I couldn't tell if all your symptoms were similar since mine won't even turn off. If it's really is an IPDM issue, then I can buy one off eBay for cheaper price. Not sure how much it is in dealership. It looks easy to replace, just unhooking some harnesses and reattaching. Can you tell me what was your bill roughly? Parts/Labor? |
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07-06-2018, 11:40 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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dealer quoted me 1300$ for part and labor. I found the IPDM on ebay for ~90$, and made sure the part number matched. Dealer was 300$ for labor. I'm sure you could DIY it, however i did not and just soaked the dealer's labor price.
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07-06-2018, 08:44 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Not yet, that will be the next step if the IPDM replacing doesn't work. |
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07-31-2018, 12:03 PM | #8 (permalink) | |
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07-31-2018, 11:37 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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OP, in your original post you did not mention that you double checked the new battery from autozone. Before I would do anything else I would take it back to get load tested or at least put a volt meter on it and see what it says. Don't assume that "new part" is ALWAYS good. Being in automotive business for some time now, I have seen many guys and myself included get burned. The battery could easily be dead or have a bad cell which will cause all sorts off electrical issues. They could've had it sitting on the shelf for some time without trickle charger hooked up. Absolutely eliminate the basics before going deeper. My 02 cents.
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08-01-2018, 10:09 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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Check the engine control fuse in the IDPM
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08-02-2018, 09:48 AM | #11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Fuses generally don't go bad while the car is sitting. I suspect that since the car sat for 3 months, the battery (along with the replacement from AutoZone) were completely flat. Slow charging the battery for 8 to 12 hours will solve the problem.
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