Pulley install on 7At, help!

ViCiouS

*****See post 12 for solution*****

Okay so this is probably a simple answer, but I can't for the life of me figure it out.

I removed the radiator fans, and such with ease, stock belt is off, now I'm stuck on the pulley. How do I seize the crank shaft on a 7AT?

In park or left in gear the drive shaft doesn't move with the pulley. It's static while I can spin the pulley around all day long. The plan was to seize the whole thing at the U joint.

ViCiouS

Well didn't really want to go this route, but what fuses should I pull before cranking the engine over while the breaker-bar is against the ground?

maizenblue

Fuel pump?

Trips

Trying to hit the attached ratchet with a good sized rubber mallet or a small sledge "Thor" hammer that should break it loose

But make sure the belts still on and jam the back of the pulley while trying to break it loose.

I would worry trying to fire it up with something being jammed in the drive shaft honestly.

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juld0zer

I wrote a long post last night but then my stupid iphone timed out and i lost the post while trying to post it

I ended up using the starter bump method to break the bolt loose on mine. Hand impact tool didnt budge it at all. The trick is to not wedge the breaker bar against the ground when you crank it. The idea is to have the bar in a position where it can swing a bit and gain some momentum then strike the ground - it's that sudden impact that will crack it loose. Otherwise you'll just cook your starter motor because it will try to lift the car up instead.

Since our cars are a button start system rather than a mechanical key system which cuts out when you release the key, you have to do things a bit differently to avoid starting the engine (like i did). I strongly suggest pulling the EFI fuse at the least, but someone else will need to chime in on other methods to prevent the motor from starting (not sure how to disable spark without disconnecting the coil packs).

Mine is a 6MT so the clutch pedal interlock switches work just like letting go of the key in an older car - let go of the clutch pedal and it stops cranking.
For 7AT, you might be able to get by by letting go of the brake pedal.
Pretty much when you hear the click and the half second that follows, let go of the pedal. Have a few goes before you set up the breaker bar.

I think i mentioned it in the other thread but doing the pulleys is not an easy task. It's very time consuming, frustrating and you'll be working with your eyes closed at some point (alternator pulley).

The other challenge will be locking up the crank to tighten the bolt to spec. On other auto trans cars i've done pulleys on, i've jammed a large socket in the large holes/cutouts in the flywheel and then turned the crank manually using a ratchet til the socket is wedged in place. This is where it might be easier on a 7AT than 6MT because the flywheel has holes in it whereas 6MT guys will have to jam the ring gear (or stand on the brakes which wasnt totally effective for me).

Goodluck!

Wonka2581

Sub'd

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SouthArk370Z

IIRC, that didn't work on my '09 - I could press the start button, release the brake pedal immediately, and car would start. Maybe someone with a 7AT can verify.

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ViCiouS

@juld0zer, thanks, your post was very informative. I'm only doing the crank pulley so no need to worry about the alternator. Car has now been on stands for 4 days... Thank god for beautiful Florida weather and owning a motorcycle. I've pulled the coilpacks and will remove the EFI fuse before attempting.

@SouthArk370Z, mine stops cranking when I let off the brake pedal and stop pressing the button.

SouthArk370Z

Thanks for verifying. I guess my memory ain't what it used to be.

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Mitco39

That sounds like a very scary way to get a nut lose. But hey if it works!

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SouthArk370Z

I'd call it an if-all-else-fails option. I've seen sockets and breaker bars shatter and even a hole in the oil pan. But sometimes you gotta do what ya gotta do.

Edit: If you are going to use this method, it will help protect your floor if you will put a 2x8 (or similar) or a piece of heavy plywood on the floor where the bar will hit.

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ViCiouS

I got my cat bolts off with this breakerbar and a 6 foot pole, really doubt either is going to snap from the crank bolt. Actually twisted an 18in extension with the torque though before those nuts broke loose.


Good note, but I'm sitting in an apartment complex parking lot.

Will keep everyone posted when I try after work.

ViCiouS

Broke it free!

To start, I unplugged the spark plug wires. Didn't pull any fuses, so there is probably some extra gas in the engine right now, but very minimal. Pulling the plug wires only involved removing the strut brace and intake pipes. I have a CAI so that was easy. *DO NOT do this while the car is on stands.*

I started with the breaker bar 4-5 inches off the ground. Cranked it 4-5 times like that, car slightly tried to lift off the ground, but the AT would immediately stop cranking once it had too much pressure. On the 6th go I started with the breaker bar on the ground, the engine cranked for a full second or a bit more, the bolt was free. And conveniently, already 1/4 inch threaded out due to the second of cranking.

It's too dark out now for me to finish the install, but cheers to the crank method.