Upper oil pan replacement?

aszyd · 08-25-2014, 11:54 PM

So, I cracked my upper oil pan at the pressure sensor input and there does not appear to be an easy way to plug it. I have ordered a new upper pan. Is there anything that I need to be aware of before attempting to replace this myself? Are there any other parts aside from the pan, some O Rings, and RTV that I will need?

From the FSM and parts docs, it does not appear to be that difficult of a procedure. However, I saw some 350z HR threads that mentioned having to either pull the engine, or hoist it, because the only way to get the pan off was to drop the front suspension. Am I going to run into anything like that with this install?

The only thread I could find here was from a gentleman who had the dealer do the replacement, and he mentioned that "valves" needed to be replaced. There does not appear to be any valves related to our oil pan. The HR pan has a pressure check valve though. I'm wondering if his valve issue was other damage to the engine, not the pan.

Thanks for any help / advice!

1slow370 · 08-26-2014, 02:28 PM

the valves should be built into the pan you won't have to worry about them, the orings for the oil pump are at the lower case so you won't need those, just the two from the the lower case to the pan by the filter. rtv either the nissan orange or grey they are the same thing the orange just shows it has been reassembled. The windage tray may or may not be something you have to purchase.

Edit: forgot to mention that yes it is indeed going to suck to change out the engine needs to be lifted 4" off the subframe to get the pan out, best way to do it is to get an engine bay brace(or use the strut bar) to hang the engine and drop the subframe. That way you don't have to pull the trans or driveshaft and the whole bottom of the motor is open to work on. You can chain the motor from the engine mounts to the strut bar (use some cardboard to keep the cahins from F'ing up your bar) and then just unscrew the lower engine mount bolts at the subframe, do one chain on each side looped under the engine mount over the strutbar so you can get the pan off.

aszyd · 08-26-2014, 03:26 PM

Thanks!

Sounds like its going to be fun!

aszyd · 08-26-2014, 10:20 PM

Dropped the subframe. On a difficulty scale of one to headers, it is about a 3. All of the nuts and bolts are easily accessible and I only had to use a breaker bar on a couple of them. Looks like splitting the pan from the engine will be the most difficult part. I read that the RTV has a really good hold. The bolts on the upper and lower pans don't seem to be torqued down very much at all, so all the work is done by the sealant.

Felix 808 · 08-26-2014, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aszyd

Looks like splitting the pan from the engine will be the most difficult part. I read that the RTV has a really good hold. The bolts on the upper and lower pans don't seem to be torqued down very much at all, so all the work is done by the sealant.

Just get you a thin putty knife work from the edges & tap it in working your way around.

1slow370 · 08-27-2014, 02:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Felix 808

Just get you a thin putty knife work from the edges & tap it in working your way around.

The lower pan yes this works the upper pan will F your putty knife into a pretzel before it comes off, make sure ALL the bolts are out and stick a big flat head or a prybar into one of the pry points and pop it off.

Felix 808 · 08-27-2014, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

The lower pan yes this works the upper pan will F your putty knife into a pretzel before it comes off, make sure ALL the bolts are out and stick a big flat head or a prybar into one of the pry points and pop it off.

Thanks, I was thinking lower, no experience with upper

aszyd · 08-28-2014, 11:12 PM

Got the pans off tonight. I used a "5 in 1" paint scraper, a gasket scraper, and a rubber mallet to split the lower pan. I used my 4 FT cheater bar to drop the upper pan. I wedged it between the right side of the pan and the motor mount and yanked. It would have popped right off had I not forgotten two of the bolts near the transmission. Ended up snapping the upper in half, lol. Good thing that's the part that I am replacing.

Also, there is the pressure valve thing in the old pan, and not one in the new pan. I need to get my car running this weekend, so I will have to figure out a way to extract the old one.

aszyd · 08-30-2014, 09:45 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Got the upper pan on today and all is well.

Speed808 · 10-31-2017, 03:33 PM

Old thread revival i just need t support the engine to change my subframe having a hard time finding pics of where to support it

Orestp · 03-25-2019, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aszyd

Dropped the subframe. On a difficulty scale of one to headers, it is about a 3. All of the nuts and bolts are easily accessible and I only had to use a breaker bar on a couple of them. Looks like splitting the pan from the engine will be the most difficult part. I read that the RTV has a really good hold. The bolts on the upper and lower pans don't seem to be torqued down very much at all, so all the work is done by the sealant.

When you dropped the subframe - did you need to disconnect the steering shaft?

104zam88 · 07-20-2023, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orestp

When you dropped the subframe - did you need to disconnect the steering shaft?

Hi guys, old thread revival again ! I did the same mistake, i've broken my upper oil pan by over-tightening the oil pressure sensor... I'm ready to unmount the subframe as explained, but I need to know if I have to disassemble the steering gear stuff ? any difficulties to expect for this ? (sorry for my english, it is not my native language)

Dreadnaught · 07-27-2023, 02:26 AM

I would put chains under each motor mount arm and secure them over the strut tower bar to help hold up the engine and transmission. I would also use a single post if the car is on a lift to help hold up the transmission or a floor jack with a piece of wood under the middle of the bell housing of the transmission to help hold up the transmission if you're doing the job with the car on jack stands.

I would disconnect the steering shaft from the rack and pinion so you can lower the subframe once it is unbolted. From how I'm thinking of this in my head, you would probably have to unbolt the seat bar end links as well.

Disconnect your battery, unbolt the starter and set it aside, remove the access plate that under the rear of the upper oil pan to remove the four 14mm bell housing bolts.

Ask anymore questions if you need help. Take pictures so you can look at them for reference as to how to put things back together.

I hope this helps.

08-25-2014, 11:54 PM	#1 (permalink)
aszyd Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 877 Drives: Magma Red 370z T+S Rep Power: 21	Upper oil pan replacement? So, I cracked my upper oil pan at the pressure sensor input and there does not appear to be an easy way to plug it. I have ordered a new upper pan. Is there anything that I need to be aware of before attempting to replace this myself? Are there any other parts aside from the pan, some O Rings, and RTV that I will need? From the FSM and parts docs, it does not appear to be that difficult of a procedure. However, I saw some 350z HR threads that mentioned having to either pull the engine, or hoist it, because the only way to get the pan off was to drop the front suspension. Am I going to run into anything like that with this install? The only thread I could find here was from a gentleman who had the dealer do the replacement, and he mentioned that "valves" needed to be replaced. There does not appear to be any valves related to our oil pan. The HR pan has a pressure check valve though. I'm wondering if his valve issue was other damage to the engine, not the pan. Thanks for any help / advice! __________________ Competition Clutch\|Fast Intentions\|Maxbore\|NST\|Setrab\|Stillen\|Tomei\|Uprev\| Z1 Avant Garde\|SPC\|Stance\|Whiteline Aerojacket\|Seibon\|Tanabe\|TRS\|TWM

08-26-2014, 02:28 PM	#2 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	the valves should be built into the pan you won't have to worry about them, the orings for the oil pump are at the lower case so you won't need those, just the two from the the lower case to the pan by the filter. rtv either the nissan orange or grey they are the same thing the orange just shows it has been reassembled. The windage tray may or may not be something you have to purchase. Edit: forgot to mention that yes it is indeed going to suck to change out the engine needs to be lifted 4" off the subframe to get the pan out, best way to do it is to get an engine bay brace(or use the strut bar) to hang the engine and drop the subframe. That way you don't have to pull the trans or driveshaft and the whole bottom of the motor is open to work on. You can chain the motor from the engine mounts to the strut bar (use some cardboard to keep the cahins from F'ing up your bar) and then just unscrew the lower engine mount bolts at the subframe, do one chain on each side looped under the engine mount over the strutbar so you can get the pan off. aszyd likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 08-26-2014 at 02:56 PM.

08-26-2014, 03:26 PM	#3 (permalink)
aszyd Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 877 Drives: Magma Red 370z T+S Rep Power: 21	Thanks! Sounds like its going to be fun! __________________ Competition Clutch\|Fast Intentions\|Maxbore\|NST\|Setrab\|Stillen\|Tomei\|Uprev\| Z1 Avant Garde\|SPC\|Stance\|Whiteline Aerojacket\|Seibon\|Tanabe\|TRS\|TWM

08-26-2014, 10:20 PM	#4 (permalink)
aszyd Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 877 Drives: Magma Red 370z T+S Rep Power: 21	Dropped the subframe. On a difficulty scale of one to headers, it is about a 3. All of the nuts and bolts are easily accessible and I only had to use a breaker bar on a couple of them. Looks like splitting the pan from the engine will be the most difficult part. I read that the RTV has a really good hold. The bolts on the upper and lower pans don't seem to be torqued down very much at all, so all the work is done by the sealant. __________________ Competition Clutch\|Fast Intentions\|Maxbore\|NST\|Setrab\|Stillen\|Tomei\|Uprev\| Z1 Avant Garde\|SPC\|Stance\|Whiteline Aerojacket\|Seibon\|Tanabe\|TRS\|TWM

08-28-2014, 11:12 PM	#8 (permalink)
aszyd Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 877 Drives: Magma Red 370z T+S Rep Power: 21	Got the pans off tonight. I used a "5 in 1" paint scraper, a gasket scraper, and a rubber mallet to split the lower pan. I used my 4 FT cheater bar to drop the upper pan. I wedged it between the right side of the pan and the motor mount and yanked. It would have popped right off had I not forgotten two of the bolts near the transmission. Ended up snapping the upper in half, lol. Good thing that's the part that I am replacing. Also, there is the pressure valve thing in the old pan, and not one in the new pan. I need to get my car running this weekend, so I will have to figure out a way to extract the old one. __________________ Competition Clutch\|Fast Intentions\|Maxbore\|NST\|Setrab\|Stillen\|Tomei\|Uprev\| Z1 Avant Garde\|SPC\|Stance\|Whiteline Aerojacket\|Seibon\|Tanabe\|TRS\|TWM

08-30-2014, 09:45 PM	#9 (permalink)
aszyd Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 877 Drives: Magma Red 370z T+S Rep Power: 21	Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Got the upper pan on today and all is well. Rusty and wideglideleon like this. __________________ Competition Clutch\|Fast Intentions\|Maxbore\|NST\|Setrab\|Stillen\|Tomei\|Uprev\| Z1 Avant Garde\|SPC\|Stance\|Whiteline Aerojacket\|Seibon\|Tanabe\|TRS\|TWM

10-31-2017, 03:33 PM	#10 (permalink)
Speed808 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Hawaii Posts: 23 Drives: 2012 370z nismo Rep Power: 8	Old thread revival i just need t support the engine to change my subframe having a hard time finding pics of where to support it

07-27-2023, 02:26 AM	#13 (permalink)
Dreadnaught Track Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Farmington, Utah Posts: 582 Drives: 14 SR 370z 6MT Rep Power: 10139	I would put chains under each motor mount arm and secure them over the strut tower bar to help hold up the engine and transmission. I would also use a single post if the car is on a lift to help hold up the transmission or a floor jack with a piece of wood under the middle of the bell housing of the transmission to help hold up the transmission if you're doing the job with the car on jack stands. I would disconnect the steering shaft from the rack and pinion so you can lower the subframe once it is unbolted. From how I'm thinking of this in my head, you would probably have to unbolt the seat bar end links as well. Disconnect your battery, unbolt the starter and set it aside, remove the access plate that under the rear of the upper oil pan to remove the four 14mm bell housing bolts. Ask anymore questions if you need help. Take pictures so you can look at them for reference as to how to put things back together. I hope this helps. __________________ Ford Diesel and Heavy Line Technician at your service.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
[FOR SALE] R35 GTR OEM Upper Intake Manifold	DPE G	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	18	11-15-2015 01:12 PM
Kinetix Front Upper Arm	roy'sz	Brakes & Suspension	10	10-30-2012 03:33 AM
DYI - Galaxy 10.1 - upper cubby	nightwish	DIY Section (Do-It-Yourself)	24	09-19-2012 06:49 AM
LTT H&R 10mm Stud Replacement Spacers for 15mm stud replacement H&R	chuckd05	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	5	02-16-2011 06:05 PM
Front upper lip	Azroadster	Exterior & Interior	1	11-17-2010 10:59 AM