Howdy, I just have a few things I'm curious about. I got the 2014 370z Base without the rev matching crud which actually would upshift better than me so I
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04-10-2014, 08:28 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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General Manual Transmission questions
Howdy,
I just have a few things I'm curious about. I got the 2014 370z Base without the rev matching crud which actually would upshift better than me so I have no say. 2 things, why does it take so long for the rpms to go down in a upshift (I'm fine on downshifts, no problems there). Its only a fraction of a second if not a second but if shift normally, the rpms would be about 200, 300 rpms over during a regular upshift (not stomping the car), and make the car jump when i let go, and thats being easy on the clutch. If i wait a little longer for the rpms to come down to match the gear then its no problem but why so long? Maybe I'm use to my old car. Also, when shifting gears i understand this being a rear wheel drive, the tranny is right underneath the center console, but most of the time i shift, you can hear the clicking sound of the synchronizers disenaging and engaging gear to gear each shift. Sometimes i can get it quiet. But is that normal to hear the transmission engage in a RWD? A FWD i never hear anything cause the tranny is in the engine bay so maybe im being picky. But them synchros seem like it varies by how hard it clicks into the next gear. Is there a way to adjust the clutch pedal to ease the pressure a little bit? Like an old cable clutch type transmission you can tighten and loosen the tension as needed. Sorry for all the weird questions, expect more to come Last edited by Akurei; 04-10-2014 at 08:33 PM. |
04-10-2014, 09:18 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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The rpms are like that cuz of the heavy flywheel n clutch ~50lb
The synchronous are also fine to make a crunch noise but not grind noise, yes they differ sounds on different gears. Lower sounding crunch on 3,4,5,6 the loudest one is 2nd. Yes u can adjust the clutch pedal check out this forum for DIY section on how to do it, and if its still isnt what ur looking for you can buy an aftermarket clutch pedal assembly which has more configurations over stock clutch.
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04-10-2014, 09:33 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Cool thanks for the info. Well my CRX has a stock heavy flywheel as well. Only has an exedy oem replacement clutch kit. But they are two different cars.
The Z's engagement, disengagement point or the "grab" point of the clutch pedal is not even an inch at the top. I could press the clutch pedal with my finger not even an inch and the clutch will engage/disengage as if the the clutch is too tight, or the hydraulic pressure or whatever. On a cluch cable transmission you would loosen the clutch cable a little bit and bring the "grab" point of the pedal halfway towards the floor and not so tight or loose if thats understandable. The cable of the clutch on old cars is the "hydraulic pressure" of these new hydro transmissions so to speak. The tension of the cable. I just don't know if you can decrease/ increase hydro pressure. I'll definately take a look. Thanks! Last edited by Akurei; 04-10-2014 at 09:36 PM. |
04-10-2014, 09:37 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Oh yeah, the point of all is, is that your suppose to have a good decent play in the Grab point area so you can feel the clutch. I dont have even a milimeter of play inside the grabbing point to feel the clutch out
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04-10-2014, 09:41 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Yeah it is high, mine is more loose, my friend has a 2013z he has his high too, if it rocks ur car too much, i believe changing the differential bushings help out alot $98 well worth it, i am going to do it my self soon.
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04-11-2014, 08:14 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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1. Go to Dealer
2. Exchange for 7AT 3. ???????? 4. Profit
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04-11-2014, 09:19 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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The high engagement point is normal. IMO, don't try to lower it. You'll end up messing up the master and/or slave cylinder. In fact, you'll end up getting used to it because it makes it easier to shift. So what you're going through just requires a bit of adjusting and getting accustomed to it. It's not impossible to shift smoothly in this car, and I'm doing it better than the 350Z.
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04-11-2014, 10:08 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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What? Crud? rev Match is Genius!
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04-11-2014, 10:34 AM | #10 (permalink) |
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Only option is to change out the spring. Or you can take it out completely but then the clutch pedal will have a lot of play sense there is no longer any tension. If you do either of these changes and do not like it.
Then you can get this 370Z & G37 AFP Clutch Pedal Assemblies - *RJM Performance.com This will allow you to adjust it more to your liking. My bet is for you to save up those pennies and go this route. Cuz I doubt the first two options will fix the issue you are having. Check out our vendors that offer this product to get a better deal.
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04-11-2014, 10:42 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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On my 2014 compared to my 2011, the difference in clutch engagement is night and day. It feels to me like Nissan redesigned the clutch pedal or are using a different helper spring between the two model-years. I feel no desire to make any changes to my 2014, whereas I always found the 2011 a little hard to drive smoothly, especially that 1st - 2nd gear shift.
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04-12-2014, 02:49 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Thanks for all the replies.
Well this car may be different but my shifting method doesn't effect anything besides extra time. I do shift normally and its a small difference. When you shift with it being higher rpms, you are relying on motor and tranny mounts to do the work for you, which is their purpose, but thats what i think granny shifting is. Just like downshifting if you upshift at the exact rpms, its a smooth transaction, not "lower". I think the rev matching is awesome creation. But people will no longer have to do any work, you might as well buy a 7at. But everything is fine now. I'm just dealing with it Last edited by Akurei; 04-12-2014 at 02:51 PM. |
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