Gremlin in my ecu

1slow370 · 03-18-2014, 07:41 PM

Figured I would post this just in case anyone has something similar happen to them. So I put the V6 back in my car, got everything connected and bam Throttle errors, ecu errors, and the car won't rev past 1055rpm. Codes are p1233, p1234,p1238, p0605. battery is good, grounds were checked, throttle was cleaned, ipdm function is good, know good throttle body was installed, ecu was reset, consult 3 was used, wiring checked for shorts and open circuits, and now I'm down to reflashing the ecu to attempt to correct a possibly corrupt ROM, or replacing it all together. If i clear the codes and start the car it will run and rev freely until the ses light flares up and then it wont go past 1055rpm. IAV relearn doesn't help. ******* nissan electrical

I needed to rant.

N0SL3N · 03-18-2014, 10:22 PM

I'd start here

P0605:
Possible causes
- Engine Control Module (ECM) may be faulty
- ECM harness power supply circuit is open or shorted
- ECM harness ground circuit is open or shorted

Tech notes
Try erasing the code first, if the light comes back ON you may have to replace the ECM to repair the problem.

The Engine Control Module (ECM) continuously monitors its own internal memory status, internal circuits, and output signals transmitted to the throttle actuator. This self-check insures that the ECM is functioning properly. If any malfunction is detected, the ECM sets the P0605 code and illuminates the MIL.

P1233:

Possible causes
- Faulty Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator
- Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator harness is open or shorted
- Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator circuit poor electrical connection

Electric Throttle Control Actuator consists of throttle control motor, throttle position sensor, etc. The Throttle Position (TP) sensor responds to the throttle valve movement.

The throttle position sensor has the two sensors. These sensors are a kind of potentiometers which transform the throttle valve position into output voltage, and emit the voltage signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). In addition, these sensors detect the opening and closing speed of the throttle valve and feed the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve from these signals and the ECM controls the throttle control motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly in response to driving condition.

P1238:

Possible causes
- Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator
- Throttle plate sticking due to carbon build-up
- Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted
- Electric Throttle Control Actuator poor electrical circuit connection

Electric throttle control actuator consists of throttle control motor, throttle position sensor, etc. The throttle control motor is operated by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and it opens and closes the throttle valve.

The throttle position sensor detects the throttle valve position, and feeds the voltage signal to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve and controls the throttle valve opening angle in response to driving conditions via the throttle control motor.

1slow370 · 03-18-2014, 11:23 PM

yeah thats from the manual been through all that already short of replacing the ecu and hoping that the 1233 and 1238 are being caused by the 0605 causing the 1234

the 123x's come in a set so if you get one you usually get the other two, and since i have been through the diagnostics on the 1233 and 1238 and there was no change its likely it is being caused by something else namely the 0605. the 0605 is also causing a b2193

1slow370 · 03-20-2014, 10:49 PM

yup looks like it is the ecu, fried the driver for the drivers side throttle, it still moves but the ecu cant properly command the motor. Installed a used ecu but need to flash the correct rom on it and marry it to the nats.

1slow370 · 03-23-2014, 01:34 AM

update new ecu fixed the problem car runs great.

phunk · 03-23-2014, 02:29 AM

how do you think you fried the throttle driver? just curious, so i make sure to never do it

1slow370 · 03-23-2014, 03:28 AM

i don't know i wish i had the amperage specs on the throttle circuits so i could check to make sure if the ecu is was defective or if somethin is randomly pulling to high of a load. I followed the standard no sensor should pull more than an amp and for the motors i divided the 15amp throttle motor fuse by two throttles and each was pulling 3-4 amps so i figured they were fine. My list of possibles included:

1. messed up during uprev reflash
2. something that is unfused in the old bank two throttle has an intermittent short that overloaded it
3. welding on the car with the ecu in (but the harness was removed and this really a rare thing)
4. my ecu was made with below standard throttle logic circuit, or poorly soldiered(these things happen in mass production)
5. it is a known but rare fault in the ecu and thats why nissan has a code for it(p0605). they have also shown with their clutch hydraulics they really dont give a **** about us.

Edit: they don't know what to make a trouble code for unless they know or find out it will cause trouble

1slow370 · 03-25-2014, 04:22 PM

well I explained my situation to the dealer and they want $110 for the 10 minutes it takes to do the NATS reset. Called most of the dealerships in the IE and they all want the same amount. You can't get it done anywhere else so I guess they have got me by the balls. Just to add insult to injury I had a blowout and trashed a wheel last night to. I don't need this right now thank you nissan.

fuct · 03-25-2014, 04:38 PM

Gl op

phunk · 04-13-2014, 02:11 PM

put my car together last night. been running it last night and today with no problem.

i let it warm up in the shop today, was about to drive it for the first time since the eternal winter ended. i rev'd it and when I hit the neutral rev limiter which is at around 4000rpm, after that, I got a P2101 and a 1200rpm idle with a 2000rpm rev limiter. I can clear the code or disconnect battery all I want, the code is back the second i key on.

The P2101 is the same as your P1233, just for the other side.

Looks like I will have to order a new ECU now. I am going to run through the stuff in the service manual... but i am not very optimistic.

1slow370 · 04-13-2014, 06:10 PM

get your hands on consult3 i tried three generic scan tools and none of them could detect the p0605 or the p1234 which were what pointed to the ecu.

phunk · 04-13-2014, 09:06 PM

i jerked around with it for hours, what a hassle.

i did get it to work for now though. i noticed that if i cleared the code, it would immediately come back on. But if i had the gas peddle down when I cleared it, it would jump up in RPM and i was free to rev it as normal and then when i let off it would come back on and stick me with the 1750 rpm again.

so i did that, only i let the RPM down real real slow, and it didnt trip the CEL, but my VDC and SLIP lights were still on.

I let it idle there for a second, shut off and back on... and bingo, everything is normal.

Put about 60 miles on it... I will see if it stays good. But I am suspecting the problem is actually the throttle body. The one it wasnt liking makes a springy noise if you tap on it, the other side is solid as a rock.

1slow370 · 04-13-2014, 10:05 PM

nissan electronics

03-18-2014, 07:41 PM	#1 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	Gremlin in my ecu Figured I would post this just in case anyone has something similar happen to them. So I put the V6 back in my car, got everything connected and bam Throttle errors, ecu errors, and the car won't rev past 1055rpm. Codes are p1233, p1234,p1238, p0605. battery is good, grounds were checked, throttle was cleaned, ipdm function is good, know good throttle body was installed, ecu was reset, consult 3 was used, wiring checked for shorts and open circuits, and now I'm down to reflashing the ecu to attempt to correct a possibly corrupt ROM, or replacing it all together. If i clear the codes and start the car it will run and rev freely until the ses light flares up and then it wont go past 1055rpm. IAV relearn doesn't help. ***** nissan electrical I needed to rant. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST** Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

03-18-2014, 10:22 PM	#2 (permalink)
N0SL3N Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Toronto Posts: 376 Drives: 2009 PG 370z 6MT Rep Power: 35	I'd start here P0605: Possible causes - Engine Control Module (ECM) may be faulty - ECM harness power supply circuit is open or shorted - ECM harness ground circuit is open or shorted Tech notes Try erasing the code first, if the light comes back ON you may have to replace the ECM to repair the problem. The Engine Control Module (ECM) continuously monitors its own internal memory status, internal circuits, and output signals transmitted to the throttle actuator. This self-check insures that the ECM is functioning properly. If any malfunction is detected, the ECM sets the P0605 code and illuminates the MIL. P1233: Possible causes - Faulty Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator - Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator harness is open or shorted - Electric Throttle Control (ETC) Actuator circuit poor electrical connection Electric Throttle Control Actuator consists of throttle control motor, throttle position sensor, etc. The Throttle Position (TP) sensor responds to the throttle valve movement. The throttle position sensor has the two sensors. These sensors are a kind of potentiometers which transform the throttle valve position into output voltage, and emit the voltage signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM). In addition, these sensors detect the opening and closing speed of the throttle valve and feed the voltage signals to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve from these signals and the ECM controls the throttle control motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly in response to driving condition. P1238: Possible causes - Faulty Electric Throttle Control Actuator - Throttle plate sticking due to carbon build-up - Electric Throttle Control Actuator harness is open or shorted - Electric Throttle Control Actuator poor electrical circuit connection Electric throttle control actuator consists of throttle control motor, throttle position sensor, etc. The throttle control motor is operated by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and it opens and closes the throttle valve. The throttle position sensor detects the throttle valve position, and feeds the voltage signal to the ECM. The ECM judges the current opening angle of the throttle valve and controls the throttle valve opening angle in response to driving conditions via the throttle control motor. __________________ \| Akuma \| Motordyne \| Z1 \| NST \| CNT \| Stillen \| Avant Garde \| RJM \| Performix \| Tint \| LED \| GTR \| Nissan \|

03-18-2014, 11:23 PM	#3 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	yeah thats from the manual been through all that already short of replacing the ecu and hoping that the 1233 and 1238 are being caused by the 0605 causing the 1234 the 123x's come in a set so if you get one you usually get the other two, and since i have been through the diagnostics on the 1233 and 1238 and there was no change its likely it is being caused by something else namely the 0605. the 0605 is also causing a b2193 __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 03-18-2014 at 11:26 PM.

03-20-2014, 10:49 PM	#4 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	yup looks like it is the ecu, fried the driver for the drivers side throttle, it still moves but the ecu cant properly command the motor. Installed a used ecu but need to flash the correct rom on it and marry it to the nats. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

03-23-2014, 01:34 AM	#5 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	update new ecu fixed the problem car runs great. fuct likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

03-23-2014, 02:29 AM	#6 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	how do you think you fried the throttle driver? just curious, so i make sure to never do it __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

03-23-2014, 03:28 AM	#7 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	i don't know i wish i had the amperage specs on the throttle circuits so i could check to make sure if the ecu is was defective or if somethin is randomly pulling to high of a load. I followed the standard no sensor should pull more than an amp and for the motors i divided the 15amp throttle motor fuse by two throttles and each was pulling 3-4 amps so i figured they were fine. My list of possibles included: 1. messed up during uprev reflash 2. something that is unfused in the old bank two throttle has an intermittent short that overloaded it 3. welding on the car with the ecu in (but the harness was removed and this really a rare thing) 4. my ecu was made with below standard throttle logic circuit, or poorly soldiered(these things happen in mass production) 5. it is a known but rare fault in the ecu and thats why nissan has a code for it(p0605). they have also shown with their clutch hydraulics they really dont give a ** about us. Edit: they don't know what to make a trouble code for unless they know or find out it will cause trouble __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST** Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 03-23-2014 at 03:33 AM.

03-25-2014, 04:22 PM	#8 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	well I explained my situation to the dealer and they want $110 for the 10 minutes it takes to do the NATS reset. Called most of the dealerships in the IE and they all want the same amount. You can't get it done anywhere else so I guess they have got me by the balls. Just to add insult to injury I had a blowout and trashed a wheel last night to. I don't need this right now thank you nissan. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

03-25-2014, 04:38 PM	#9 (permalink)
fuct A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sugar Land Posts: 3,692 Drives: 97' Ranger :) Rep Power: 24	Gl op

04-13-2014, 02:11 PM	#10 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	put my car together last night. been running it last night and today with no problem. i let it warm up in the shop today, was about to drive it for the first time since the eternal winter ended. i rev'd it and when I hit the neutral rev limiter which is at around 4000rpm, after that, I got a P2101 and a 1200rpm idle with a 2000rpm rev limiter. I can clear the code or disconnect battery all I want, the code is back the second i key on. The P2101 is the same as your P1233, just for the other side. Looks like I will have to order a new ECU now. I am going to run through the stuff in the service manual... but i am not very optimistic. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

04-13-2014, 06:10 PM	#11 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	get your hands on consult3 i tried three generic scan tools and none of them could detect the p0605 or the p1234 which were what pointed to the ecu. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

04-13-2014, 09:06 PM	#12 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,668 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974723	i jerked around with it for hours, what a hassle. i did get it to work for now though. i noticed that if i cleared the code, it would immediately come back on. But if i had the gas peddle down when I cleared it, it would jump up in RPM and i was free to rev it as normal and then when i let off it would come back on and stick me with the 1750 rpm again. so i did that, only i let the RPM down real real slow, and it didnt trip the CEL, but my VDC and SLIP lights were still on. I let it idle there for a second, shut off and back on... and bingo, everything is normal. Put about 60 miles on it... I will see if it stays good. But I am suspecting the problem is actually the throttle body. The one it wasnt liking makes a springy noise if you tap on it, the other side is solid as a rock. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph

04-13-2014, 10:05 PM	#13 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	nissan electronics phunk likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50