Hey Guys, I have a 2010... been having this same issue for awhile now. The engine light would randomly pop and then my car would idle at 1k for a
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10-28-2013, 10:07 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Idling at 1000rpm
Hey Guys,
I have a 2010... been having this same issue for awhile now. The engine light would randomly pop and then my car would idle at 1k for a few days - weeks. Then the light would go off and car would idle normally. Nissan reset my ecu or something twice now and the problem still keeps coming back... they can't figure out what the problem is... It's pretty annoying... Anyone else have this problem? Lemme know before I burn the car to hell Thanks |
10-28-2013, 10:10 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Do you have aftermarket intakes? And if so were they installed without a tune? I'm having the same thing happening and I'm pretty sure it because it just recently got colder where I live. Colder air is more dense which means your engine to operate normally would need more fuel to compensate. Thus the higher idle... I'm not positive...but the ONLY time I get a CEL is when it's cold outside. I imagine once I get a couple maps on a tune to compensate for cold climates it should fix it.
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10-28-2013, 10:10 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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When I had a CEL it would do the same. It's kind of a mechanical safety feature to help prevent your motor from dying. Is your car stock? And what is the code it's giving?
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10-28-2013, 10:15 PM | #4 (permalink) | |
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YAH! When the weather gets cold this happens! I thought I was trippin. I don't wanna go back to the dealership cuz they all suck in Vancouver lol. Let me know how it goes after you remap and tune! Not sure what code it was giving. They just told me they reset it and told me it's good. Yah it's technically stock just exhaust lol -.- Last edited by marky7033; 10-28-2013 at 10:17 PM. |
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10-28-2013, 10:34 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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You running test pipes or HFC's? If so, check your O2 sensors.
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10-29-2013, 08:11 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Well, it's probably going to be a while before I get it tuned. Honestly I've been through a couple winters here and my car hasn't done anything other than throw that CEL here and there (only in the cold). So if it was me...and there's no other noticeable difference, I wouldn't worry. However, I don't want you to completely ignore it if it IS an issue. Get the code checked out...if it has anything to do with the air/fuel ratio, then I imagine it's just the weather. Just do some research on it before they suggest charging you for something that isn't going to fix the problem.
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10-29-2013, 08:14 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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The best advice, next time it happens get them to read the code and tell you what it is (like P0174 or something), that way you can go about actually fixing it instead of them just clearing the code.
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10-29-2013, 12:21 PM | #8 (permalink) | ||
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10-29-2013, 12:36 PM | #9 (permalink) | |
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Cars nowadays are very good at diagnosing themselves. Get an OBD scanner and see what DTC(s) are showing up. You can find scanners for as little as $30 or so. I use my ScanGauge to read/clear DTCs. Most auto parts stores will read the DTCs, or loan/rent you a scanner, for little or nothing.
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10-29-2013, 12:37 PM | #10 (permalink) | |
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