I recently took out my clutch spring and now that the pedal has more feel I have noticed the engagement is right at the very top. Is this normal on
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04-22-2013, 08:54 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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The engagement point is very high yes, and imho that's the real problem with the stock spring being too violent in coming back from the pressed-down position and giving the jerky behavior from the engine at (many) times.
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2013 PW 370Z Touring+Sport, NAV Tint 35% side, 18% back | RJM clutch pedal | ZSpeed SS lines | Stillen Gen3 CAI | Fast Intentions HFC and TDX 12'' CF CBE | UpRev |
04-22-2013, 09:44 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Mine just came in today. So anyone that wants the softer clutch spring that was offered back when, mine will be ready to ship Saturday.
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04-22-2013, 09:47 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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I've got one too. It was a nice change going from the stock spring to a softer one, but this new pedal is sooo much better.
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05-19-2016, 09:22 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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2011 370z Touring @ 46.5K miles
This is my daily driver. I just got my Z back today from the dealer service shop after having them swap the OEM Master Cylinder to new OEM MC, OEM Slave Cylinder to ZSpeedPerformance's HD (CSC) Concentric Slave Cylinder and the OEM Clutch to the ZSpeed OEM Stage 1 Clutch Replacement and must also mention that now the clutch pedal engages almost 1-3 inches from the top where as before the engagement occured near the middle of the pedal's travel distance. I've had the car since 27K miles to the current 46.5K miles. The pedal went soft last fall and it took me a while to figure out it was my Clutch Master Cylinder that was the fault and not the CSC (which a lot of posts I've read led me to believe). However, the pedal feels great now with the new HD CSC (Concentric Slave Cylinder) installed.
Pedal developed a 'clicking' that was heard and felt @ about 32K miles > Had dealership replace pedal only with warranty > Sound went away but came back 8 months later > Performed clutch bleed that contained much sediment and air bubbles > Pedal went half way to floor after bleeding but returned to normal after 1 or 2 miles of normal driving > Pedal gradually became softer and engagement was lower and lower until I could not shift into gear at all with the engine running > Broke off bleed valve from OEM CSC body during bleed attempt > Flatbed to dealer and spent about $1K on labor: Labor $700 to swap Clutch and Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC) $250 to swap Master Cylinder Parts $325 ZSpeed HD CSC $164 OEM Master Cylinder from dealer $325 ZSpeed Stage 1 Stock Replacement Clutch Kit I hope this finds you and helps if you are in need of guidance. Best of luck! Joe @ ZSpeed was very helpful even if you just have some questions. Last edited by Raziel008; 05-20-2016 at 03:18 PM. Reason: updates and corrections |
07-30-2017, 09:50 AM | #9 (permalink) |
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I had a question from Turbospec regarding "Pedal gradually became softer and engagement was lower and lower until I could not shift into gear at all with the engine running". To clarify: it was ultimately my Clutch Master Cylinder that was the bad and needed replaced to alleviate the symptom.
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08-02-2017, 05:08 PM | #11 (permalink) |
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The RJM clutch pedal is the solution! I've had mine for about two or three years now and it WORKS! It works so well that I'm going to upgrade to the new V3 pedal when I do my clutch system upgrade this weekend.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
08-03-2017, 01:10 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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So I know they are different cars but I hated the stock clutch pedal on my 2004 g35 so I bought the RJM pedal as soon as it came out but I am not so sure I want it for my g37
The stock g37 pedal has a very high engagement which feels weird to me (but helps when I am in traffic on my commute)...I really like how light the stock g37 pedal feels compared the the RJM pedal on my g35 with it springing back very quickly. The stock pedal has a hard stop down and hard stop up where as the RJM pedal on my g35 was sloppy when I push it down all the way and very loose when it came back up. Yes I did adjust it the right way, def better than stock on the g35... but do you guys think the RJM pedal for the g37 would feel just as solid as the stock pedal? |
08-04-2017, 05:22 AM | #13 (permalink) | |
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