Lower clutch engaging point after Zspeed CSC replace????

Hatsuongmai

I just replaced the stock CSC with the Zspeed CSC last weekend. Did the proper clutch bleed but somehow the clutch engage point seem to be lower after the Zspeed CSC replaced compare to with the OEM CSC. Did anyone in here have their CSC replaced with the Zspeed CSC? Do you have to take out the whole clutch line and replace with the line that came with the Zspeed CSC because the stock clutch line screw on the stock CSC right outside the tranny. However, the Zspeed CSC came with a longer clutch line. Do I have to take out portion of the old clutch line and replace it with the line bundle with the Zspeed CSC? Thanks.

Baer383

What kind of clutch did you put in it?

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

Hatsuongmai

Just with the OEM clutch for now. I read the forums and got paranoid about the OEM CSC due to its failure rate. I don't want to tow back my car when the OEM CSC fail, so I decided to replace it with the Zspeed CSC.

Baer383

The clutch line part doesn't matter as long as the air is bled completely out,it just maybe the throw on the Z speed CSC vs OEM CSC and that would vary the engagement height.

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

cheshirecat

It really sounds to me that there's still a little bit of air in the line. As the poster above mentioned- the length of the clutch line doesn't matter as long as there isn't any air in the system.

The clutch, especially stock, should engage pretty high, and you should be able to feel the reciprocating mass through the flywheel when you exert a slight amount of pressure on the pedal.

Anything less is uncivilized.

Hatsuongmai

Thanks guys. Let me ask my buddy to help me with the clutch bleed one more time.

cheshirecat

Bleeding air out of this clutch pressure system is a complete nightmare man. The way I did it (and there's a lot of DIYs out there) with two people was to:

- top off reservoir
- person in cabin pumps clutch to build up pressure, keep clutch pressed in
- person under car bleeds air out via bleeder valve and closes before fluid bleeds out
- person in cabin checks reservoir level

repeat that until the clutch pedal feels right. the person inside the cabin may feel the clutch lose pressure as you bleed due to some fluid coming out, but they should be able to pump it back up to build pressure.

ive heard stories of people literally taking an hour or more of doing this to get all the air out. it's a pain in the *** man. you can knock on the internals a bit with a metal tool of some sort to knock loose air bubbles also, it may help.

Hatsuongmai

Thanks. I'll give it one more try this time.

cheshirecat

Let us know how it turns out along with what was done differently if anything. Hopefully the thread can aid someone in the future.

DIGItonium

First, crack open the hard line to the master cylinder. It will let the air out until fluid starts seeping out. Tigthen, then proceed with the CSC bleed.

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Hatsuongmai

I just finished the bleed using the instruction that DIGItonium provided. I cracked open the hard line to the master cylinder to let the air and fluid out 3 times then proceed with the CSC bleed 4 times. Finally the clutch engage point is back to normal. Thanks everyone for their inputs. :-)

Joepro

My pedal is a tad higher after the install, also put in a Southbend clutch and flywheel. I bled the system heck and back, the clutch feels great, no problems after 100 miles, I was just going to adjust the pedal a tad or just adjust to it. I doubt mine has air in it, works flawless, no problems with sticking or soft pedal, immediate engage disengage at both points.

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