Just want to confirm.

ZoomZ

Finally got to drive the car around the block after full Clutch system upgrade. (Zpeed CMACK, EZ street Clutch and LW FW, RJM Pedal with Tilton MC)

I did a search and read a few posts about the Lightweight flywheel and noise.

I get almost no noise or chattering at Idle in Neutral. Sounds normal.

However, when I drive, it sounds like GRINDING METAL.
I did nothing spirited, didn't even get past 3rd gear. I read the comments about sounding like a F250 Diesel, or bunch of rattle cans. Seems to be what I'm experiencing.

Transmission shifts ok. No notches or gear grinding. The RJM pedal is a bit stiff (almost like stock) buy I'll let Clutch and whole system break-in before I adjust it.

One thing I forgot to do, is top up the Transmission fluid. I lost about 1/2 a cup when I did the CMACK, due to those sealed bolts on Transmission input shaft cover.

I don't think that little Fluid loss would cause that grinding. ( REdline MT-85 currently)

So this noise is normal?

Averying

If I give any substantial throttle below ~1500-2000rpm, it makes a noticeable metal grinding noise. Sounds like sh*t tbh.

After ~2500rpm, no chatter at all! I think what you’re hearing is normal.


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2009 Sport Touring | Platinum Graphite | GTM Stage 1 Supercharger | BC BR Coilovers | Hotchkis Swaybar | Z1 FUCAs | AME TM-02 Wheels | Z1 2-piece Front Rotors | Z1 Clutch & Flywheel | Invidia Gemini Catback | GTM Resonated Test Pipes

NissanZ34

What you are hearing is normal sound from single mass flywheel on a VQ37VHR. I thought the same when I first drove my car after doing the same mods as you did but Zspeed told me it's normal and indeed it is.

ZoomZ

Thank you.

I noticed in your signature you have a Z1 FW. I am assuming that is also a lightweight. However, is it Aluminum or steel?

Averying

I’m not sure if I have the lightweight (14lb) or mid weight (21lb). Previous owner installed it.

Both Z1’s offerings are 4140 steel


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2009 Sport Touring | Platinum Graphite | GTM Stage 1 Supercharger | BC BR Coilovers | Hotchkis Swaybar | Z1 FUCAs | AME TM-02 Wheels | Z1 2-piece Front Rotors | Z1 Clutch & Flywheel | Invidia Gemini Catback | GTM Resonated Test Pipes

ZStalker505

I dont know exactly whats in my car but at idle it sounds like a diesel and low rpm accelerating pretty bad noise. I was told its a custom clutchmaster stage 3 but no idea the flywheel so its probably normal.

ZoomZ

Thanks

runwhatyabrng

Holly crap on a stick man, I just come back after changing my clutch and flywheel, (still initial break in, did 120 mile) I had heard the comments but did not expect it to be that bad. The trans mount probably did not help. Put in the following parts:

• Jim Wolf Technology (JWT) Heavy Duty clutch
• CZP Lightweight Chromoly Flywheel (17 lbs)
• JIT Heavy Duty Alloy Body Concentric Slave Cylinder
• Torque Solution Billet Aluminum Transmission Mount
• Whiteline Differential Bushing Set

clutch feel and take-up is really nice, but the noise and vibrations. Did not go past 4000 RPM but it's buzzy for sure

Rusty

A solid transmission mount will knock your teeth out.

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runwhatyabrng

Yeah it's bad enough that I think I'll just swap back in the OEM one. The unpleasantness of the drive is more than any advantage it would provide.

2011 Nismo#91

Yeah unless you're building a race car there is no need to go solid mounts.

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projectpanda

I have pretty much the same setup as you, RJM Tilton MC and everything, but I have the 12lb flywheel.

I have no clutch chatter at idle or any rpm range since I also opted for the "quiet-disk" setup.

I'm close to finishing my clutch break with about another 100 miles to go.

The issue/complaint I have is that my FP is very low and I can't adjust lower than 100%, otherwise I can't get into gear.

I contacted RJM and he said I may still have air in my system

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RHM 75mm TB & ported up/low mani., 3" intakes/velocity stack, Z1 Headers, Motordyne ART pipes, HBP 3.5" exhaust, Tein MonoSport, SPL F/R arms, endlinks, and tie rods , Eibach sways, Z1 rotors F/R, diff bush., subframe collar, Bell Raceworks diff brace

runwhatyabrng

I swapped in a new OEM master cylinder when I did clutch change. Bench bled the unit with it in the car then I use my vacuum bleeder to clear the whole line. No air in there, pedal feel is great. I you can get a vacuum bleeder, it saves a lot of aggravation.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/pneu...t/PA0009121187

you might be able to get the tool loaned or Harbor Freight sells something similar

Attached Images

bench bleed.JPG (71.7 KB, 13 views)

projectpanda

I'll probably do a bench bleed on the MC.

My pedal is very consistent and return feel. Clutch grabs fine and going into all gears is fine also. Its just my FP is very low and not being able to adjust the RJ pedal.

I though air would cause some inconsistency or something.

I confirmed with Joe on the CMAK that I'm getting the correct amount of fork movement.

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RHM 75mm TB & ported up/low mani., 3" intakes/velocity stack, Z1 Headers, Motordyne ART pipes, HBP 3.5" exhaust, Tein MonoSport, SPL F/R arms, endlinks, and tie rods , Eibach sways, Z1 rotors F/R, diff bush., subframe collar, Bell Raceworks diff brace

runwhatyabrng

So after 500 km (300 miles) , I reverted back to OEM trans mount. Anybody looking for a slightly used Torque Solution billet aluminum transmission mount (TS-TM-433)