Os giken str

Uxi

Got the Z-speed CMAK installed and was time for a new clutch since the stock was slipping. I had the shop change out master cylinder, too even though he said it looked fine. I wanted the OS Giken Gran Turismo but was told 2 months wait, so went with the STR.

Engagement point almost to the floor and very on/off. I was expecting the latter but not the former. About 90% of my clutch pedal travel has no resistance at all and then the off/on. It's that normal or should I take it back in? Feels almost like it did the last time the CSC failed except the pedals comes back. I mentioned it immediately and every gear engages so we're thinking that's just how it is with this style, which is dual purpose race and street.

NorthStyle

You could try going with the RJM clutch pedal to adjust the engagement point

Uxi

Definitely on my list. Does the engagement point description sound normal though?

NorthStyle

Couldn't say, I have a ZSpeed/CMAK combo but installed the RJM at the same time. My engagement point is pretty much in the upper middle of the pedals travel.

Uxi

Thanks! I ordered the RJM.

NorthStyle

Great to hear, hope it sorts your engagement point issues.

ZoomZ

You can have them bleed it again. I had difficulties with my CMAK Slave cylinder hiding air. I had to manually depress the plunger by hand, all the way back, while my helper pushed for full extension. (basically bench bleeding, but installed on car)

I did RJM at same time with Tilton MC. Worked ou tin end. havent test driven yet.

Uxi

Thinking it did need to be bled. Noticed the pedal was much higher today before engagement and much harder the whole way through. Which moved the engagement point so leaning to drive 0-1 and 1-2 again. Think it bled out some air on its own?

phunk

The engagement point is already adjustable from the factory. The RJM pedal allows you to change the fulcrum point for a different travel ratio. It probably makes the top 10 must have list for the car, for anyone running aftermarket clutches. But as far as just moving engagement up or down, that is already adjustable on the stock pedal.

Try pumping the clutch 12-20 times somewhat quickly and see if the engagement moves up temporarily. If so, you need to bleed the system more. But if it stays down low, lengthen the engagement adjustment a couple turns and try again.

Note that after raising the engagement point with adjustment, you may find you need or want to adjust the bottom switch as a pedal stop to prevent over-extending the diaphragm spring in the clutch. That is just something to consider and look at. Once your clutch is entirely disengaged, you may not want the pedal to travel a ton further. I don't engineer clutches, but it never felt right to me allowing the hydraulic system to continue compressing the clutch well beyond what was necessary, and I imagine that in some applications and designs it could cause an issue.

Also note that after you install the RJM pedal, any time you make a significant adjustment to the fulcrum point, you want to confirm that your top clutch switch is still being pressed when you're off the pedal. Adjust the switch depth position as necessary. Otherwise cruise control will not work and you will eventually get an S-Mode fault (if you have S-Mode) as the system believes the clutch is always being slightly depressed.

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