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Z1 CSC/clutch vibration grinding pedal engagement too low

Hi first thread on here. I have a 09 370z base sport package. I installed the Z1 CSC EK and sprung clutch and light flywheel. Initially the clutch felt great

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Old 03-29-2022, 07:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Z1 CSC/clutch vibration grinding pedal engagement too low

Hi first thread on here. I have a 09 370z base sport package.
I installed the Z1 CSC EK and sprung clutch and light flywheel.
Initially the clutch felt great except when the trans got hot/warm, i started feeling vibration and clutch feels like SHlT. I feels like it's grinding as i depress the last half of pedal travel.

I bled clutch best i could and added some lube to the CSC where the rod slides into the body. It helped with the vibration and grinding sound. But now, the clutch engagement is almost to the floor. Idk how this happend but I'm having trouble shifting gears while off and even harder when on and impossible to shift during cold start.

Can I adjust the pedal? Do i need to adjust Z1 CSC EK? How?

I searched and couldn't find anything like my problem except for the clutch adjustment but idk if it applies to me. Thank you

Last edited by 370DriftZ; 03-29-2022 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 03-29-2022, 11:22 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Just a thought about this.

If it has been a while since you installed this, you might need to have the slave cylinder bled for air in the system or a flush/fill. Also be sure to change your transmission oil yearly.

I am about to have this done as part of my yearly service regimen. I have the same clutch setup only using the 6-puck ceramic clutch disk and the mid-weight flywheel.

At idle I have the expected rattle in the transmission when not in gear. When I press the clutch in the noise goes away completely until I let the clutch pedal out. I think there is some pedal adjustment possible, run this by your trusted maintenance tech. This can move the engagement point a little.

I have had clutch chatter and engagement vibrations from the start. So I am used to it now. However it does work great on track when you are really getting on it. Shifting gears for me is not a problem, I don't have any other vibrations to speak of while driving.

Not sure if this helps any, but best of luck. I have a good local speed shop doing the work on my driveline in the Dallas, TX area.
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Old 03-29-2022, 12:19 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I had similar experiences with my stock clutch when I had the Z1 CSCEK installed. I would do adjustments on the rod length a couple times a year based on the clutch wear. I also had to replace their stupid slave cylinder 4 times before finally bailing on the whole kit and getting the ZSpeed CMAK, which is self adjusting. No issues for several years now.
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Old 03-29-2022, 12:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The 6 puck clutches are going to be noisy, but there should not be any grinding or vibration. It may be caused by improper installation of the clutch itself. The thing about the Z1 CSCEK is that it needs constant adjustment, at least it did when I had it installed.
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Old 04-05-2022, 09:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue View Post
I had similar experiences with my stock clutch when I had the Z1 CSCEK installed. I would do adjustments on the rod length a couple times a year based on the clutch wear. I also had to replace their stupid slave cylinder 4 times before finally bailing on the whole kit and getting the ZSpeed CMAK, which is self adjusting. No issues for several years now.
I might have to do this
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Old 04-05-2022, 09:47 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So I bled the clutch again. And adjusted the slave cylinder rod. I noticed today that the car moves forward on first gear so that means the clutch is not disengaged all the way. It's hard to shift into first and impossible in reverse when the car is on. I have to shut it off to to shift into reverse.
I think I may have to drop the trans and remove shims/washers from the pivot point so that it allows full disengagement. Unless i can adjust the pedal because i do have about 0.5 in of dead clutch at the very top. I have to push the clutch COMPLETELY in to get any gear in
Any kinks would be appreciated
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Old 04-15-2022, 12:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You figure anything Out with this? Did you have this in for quite some time working? It’s tough to say it’s an internal adjustment if it worked fine for a while but it’s sounding it’s pushing to far forward one way or another. I’m doing the Install myself right now struggling the fork adjustment. Too far forward/no gap between plate.
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JARblue View Post
I had similar experiences with my stock clutch when I had the Z1 CSCEK installed. I would do adjustments on the rod length a couple times a year based on the clutch wear. I also had to replace their stupid slave cylinder 4 times before finally bailing on the whole kit and getting the ZSpeed CMAK, which is self adjusting. No issues for several years now.
Did you have to swap some stock parts back on to make speed cmak fit? Ive had more problems with the z1cscek that I did with the stock one smh
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370DriftZ View Post
So I bled the clutch again. And adjusted the slave cylinder rod. I noticed today that the car moves forward on first gear so that means the clutch is not disengaged all the way. It's hard to shift into first and impossible in reverse when the car is on. I have to shut it off to to shift into reverse.
I think I may have to drop the trans and remove shims/washers from the pivot point so that it allows full disengagement. Unless i can adjust the pedal because i do have about 0.5 in of dead clutch at the very top. I have to push the clutch COMPLETELY in to get any gear in
Any kinks would be appreciated
This exactly happened to me. I dropped my transmission and my pressure plate became loose.
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Old 09-19-2022, 12:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weebs25 View Post
You figure anything Out with this? Did you have this in for quite some time working? It’s tough to say it’s an internal adjustment if it worked fine for a while but it’s sounding it’s pushing to far forward one way or another. I’m doing the Install myself right now struggling the fork adjustment. Too far forward/no gap between plate.
I finally dropped the transmission and the pressure plate was loose. Two bolts on pressure plate were gone and the rest were finger right. There's uneven wear on PP teeth. The smooth shaft on trans where throwout bearing slides, isn't smooth anymore. Noticed my throwout bearing and sleeve were not meshed together completely or evenly. I looked in z1 website just for the cover/plate but it doesn't seem to be sold separately.

I think im gonna have to swap the whole thing for a zspeed cmak. Too much trouble with this kit.
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Old 09-19-2022, 02:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370DriftZ View Post
I finally dropped the transmission and the pressure plate was loose. Two bolts on pressure plate were gone and the rest were finger right. There's uneven wear on PP teeth. The smooth shaft on trans where throwout bearing slides, isn't smooth anymore. Noticed my throwout bearing and sleeve were not meshed together completely or evenly. I looked in z1 website just for the cover/plate but it doesn't seem to be sold separately.

I think im gonna have to swap the whole thing for a zspeed cmak. Too much trouble with this kit.
If you go with the ZSpeed CMAK I would reach out to them to see if the kit and your current Flywheel and Clutch are compatible. If you get the kit and the bearing is not the correct size (Thickness) you could have engagement issues due to the stack height of the Z1 Flywheel and Clutch. Though I might be speaking out of my butt.
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Old 09-19-2022, 09:33 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I had very similar issues this past winter- with the car wanting to creep at all times/not disengaging. I dropped my transmission and dropped shims..issue was completely gone and rest was easy to adjust..shims are a pain for sure triple check them to everyone in this post. So far- the actual feel of it with my comp steel flywheel and stage 3 full face clutch has been great.
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Old 11-11-2022, 04:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I ended up tightening everything up with locktight. I sanded down the part in the picture. Idk what it's called. I could feel the ribs/bumps every time I step on the clutch. Now, after sanding it smooth, it feels good again. Except very top of clutch pedal, there's nothing at the top 1/4. There's no engagement or anything for the first 1/4 of the whole pedal travel. I adjusted the slave cylinder so that the throwout bearing was almost touching the pressure plate teeth. All air was bled out multiple times. No more air comes out. And still have that dead pedal travel at the very top. Anyone have that problem?
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