Replacing the gallery gaskets next week, question about timing components to replace

rclarkbow

Gallery Gaskets on my 2012

This post is a follow up to my first post linked above.

So I'm at 150k miles on my 2012 370z and I had started to worry about gallery gaskets issue causing low oil pressure.

This led be to installing the AEM 150psi oil pressure gauge. After installing, my idle oil psi at 180 degrees F was roughly 15-17, dropping as low as 13psi.

As this is on the low side, I've already ordered the gaskets kit from EPS tuning.

Other replacement parts I'm considering from concept z performance website:

Probably:
HRTMNGCVR-KT - timing cover rebuild kit
B1010-JK20A water pump
13070-EY00A - timing chain tensioner

Possibly:
13028-JK20A - timing chain

Maybe:
Also looking at replacing the multiple timing guides and potentially the oil pump, but the oil pump is quite expensive compared to the rest.

What do you guys think? I'm at 150k now and want to keep this car forever. Is it worth doing the oil pump for an extra $350? Is the timing chain itself fine if I do the tensioners and / or guides? What would you do.

I'm paying a shop for labor who has quoted me 9 hours for just the gallery gaskets, and I can't imagine the other parts adding much to the labor hours since they'll be in there anyway.

Which parts would you also install in addition to gallery gaskets if you were in my shoes?

Rusty

At that mileage. And since you're already in there. Why take a chance, and do everything once. Gaskets, timing chain, tensioner, guides, water pump, oil pump gears (get an aftermarket set).

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Dreadnaught

Do everything as Rusty said. It's really stupid not do so since the front cover will be off.

I always recommended doing everything on a big job like this when I was working at dealership. You'll be saving yourself money too since the front cover won't have to be taken off again to do let's say the water pump when you just had the front cover off say 2 months ago because all you were wanting to do was the oil galley gaskets.

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SwedeZ

So just to be sure, it's this one, right?:

https://epstuningtx.com/products/vq3...nt=14675118534

JARblue

When I did that work, I also did the thermostat Didn't bother with the timing chain. But I did throw in some SuckerPunch oil pump gears

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THE BULL

I would take a bit more time and plan this one out a bit more.

Financially you can find a newer VHR and depending on the shop it might be easier for them and maybe more cost effective on your end.

You can save the old engine and sell it or practice with it.
The newer VHR will have newer pumps, updated seals, less blow-by, etc.

Otherwise from experience of having to take off the rear timing cover, you might want to prepare yourself for any unseen expenses.
Your cam guides will probably be a bit chewed.
Water pump is necessary, might as well a Tstat.
Coolant transfer tube gaskets in case the tech pulls the whole tube while pulling the neck, very likely re-using the gasket will fool you into thinking its not pinched)
I went and got a tube of Nissan sealant as well (you'll need some good sealant for the cover)
Hopefully no VTC issues or slipped phasers.

There is quite a bit of math to do. If a new motor will be closer to the budget for the gallery service, I'd say go with the new motor.

JARblue

lol that sounds like a dealer answer if I ever heard one. Even with $1K in oil pump gears, the work I did under the timing cover doesn't even come close to the cost of replacing the motor.

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THE BULL

Depends, are you doing any other gaskets like I stated earlier?
Unless he pulls the VTC cover these is no way to determine the condition of this engine internally. I was at 136k with some crappy service it's entire life.
Many things were replaced and that was doing the work myself.

20k miles later no issues but I wish I would have gone with a newer engine, I would have had an extra as a donor plus it is extra parts that I can store/clean/mod/paint.

You can literally sell 10 parts of a VHR and make the labor back. Might be too much for the OP but it's all dwindling on what is found upon disassembly.

JARblue

If you're not including labor costs your suggestion makes more sense. But it also depends on the situation.

I bought my Z new and put 100K miles on it in the first 6 years. So I have a good idea of the condition of the engine since I maintain it properly. No way in hell would I buy a used engine - I don't care how many miles aren't on it - unless I was planning to rebuild it first. Too risky to just assume that it is in better condition.

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THE BULL

Yes and No. Your ownership of your Z makes you biased. You're expecting folks to give it the same or worse care than you have given to your vehicle.

Safe to assume 2015+ engines have shown to be in overall better condition, a quick oil cap check will show, the rest are visual/auditory signs.
The engines have been shown to be the same across trims other than the AWD one and their upper pans.
Another safe assumption is that you can squeeze another 50k miles out of a newer VHR without opening it.

You should start seeing more VHRs now with the interest of the VR30.
Before getting any more side tracked.
OP should crunch the numbers since there are some mechanics who will swap and un-bolt but hate lining up timing marks and silicone.

ZoomZ

I had a 2006 Xterra with the infamous timing chain guide wear. I replaced everything behind that cover!! (OEM Nissan parts) except the oil pump.

Guess what, I noticed cavitation on every start up. Pressures where fine, but hell of a gurgle on start up.

I had similar mileage. Not sure how the VQ oil pump comes out, but the Xterra had two oil pans, and the upper one required removal of suspension and stuff. The reason I got lazy.

The timing cover was time consuming and labor intensive, but the actually chains and guides were rather simple about 2 hours. Did all the work myself. Took my time, took me two days.

So yes, do the oil pump and the chain tensioners, which I assume are the hydraulic oil pressure type. DO NOT get lazy with o-rings and gaskets. As another mentioned. Replace every rubber or paper no matter how good it looks. You only get one chance. ( more chance if you have time and money )

zz

Spooler

150k on the engine, chunk it and get a low mileage junkyard long block. Save it to build later if you want. 75k, keep the old engine, 100k look at a new one, 150k just get a newer one. The rub is low mileage junkyard long blocks are starting to become hard to find. Expect to spend 2000- 2800. Better yet, just wait for it to start giving you trouble, then deal with it.

Spooler

Your old engine is work around 1400 or so. A boosted guy will pick it up to build in a heartbeat.