Blackstone Report

Zthirty4NISMO

Got my first oil analysis done as I am considering switching oil. Car has just over 15k and have been using Nissan Ester up until now. I don’t drive the car hardly 2k miles the past couple years so I’m wondering if its worth going to an expensive synthetic since I usually do annual oil changes before the car gets put away for winter. I don’t think I should go the 3-4 years it will take to reach an actual change interval when it sits half the time over winter anyways. What are everyone’s thoughts?

No track time or real hard driving either.

Analysis is attached

Attached Files

Scan.pdf (755.0 KB, 24 views)

__________________

Spartan 1771

I only drive about 2k a year as well, but I do an oil change every spring regardless of mileage. I use Red Line 5w-30 and have no issues with it. Its pricey, but it's only once a year.

__________________
~Rob

-DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on...

JARblue

I thought Nissan Ester was already considered an expensive synthetic

Just stick with a quality oil. No need to go crazy expensive just for the hell of it. Nissan Ester, Mobil 1, Red Line, and Motul are all very high quality oils. Most of them are also very reasonable in terms of price.

__________________

ltullos

I have 2016 Nimso with 27K mi which I track and perform UOA after each oil change (typ. 3,000 to 5,000 mi). I know it's overkill; but that's what I do. I have 5 reports and trend chart the Cu and Fe contaminants, normalized by mileage (i.e. PPB/mi). I also switched from Amsoil to Motul 300V after the first two, where I noticed a big drop in Cu, although it also dropped from 42 to 23 between the first two reports.

The averages from the first two reports using Amsoil were:
Fe 13 ppm
Cu 33 ppm
Mb 45 ppm

The averages from the last three reports using Motul 300V were:
Fe 15 ppm
Cu 13 ppm
Mb 544 ppm

I would say your numbers look normal, but I would recommend you get a baseline with 3 reports, and then recheck as you wish to check for changes.

SouthArk370Z

Most "name brand" oils nowadays will work just fine unless you are really pushing the engine (eg, racing). Even the dino-based oils are far superior to the ones from 20-30 years ago. Go with a good synthetic or semi-syn and quit worrying. LOTS of posts on this site about the subject; search is your friend.

Edit: Keep changing it before storing every year. Acids, condensation, etc can build up over time.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

Quicksilvers

Any API certified synthetic motor will work just fine. Oil change intervals depend on what type of driving you are doing and how you are using your Z? Since I purchased my Nissan Maxima daily driver the mileage on the Z will be lower but even though I do my oil changes twice a year and/or before any track events I attend during the year. Don’t be afraid to drive your Z these cars were meant to be driven. I would do at least two oil changes a year. If you search there is a wealth of information on this topic.

__________________
Mr. Clean

Zthirty4NISMO

This has been mentioned a lot on here but I don't buy it...those things can only accumulate through use. The oil isn't going to become acidic just sitting in the car. Sure condensation used to be a concern in older engines with open breathers but now with closed PCV systems I don't understand how it can happen.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

__________________

SouthArk370Z

The acid doesn't collect if it just sits there without the engine running but it will over time. Every time you run the engine, you are adding a little acid. Don't go two (or more) years before changing the oil.

Water is a product of combustion of hydrocarbons (hydro = Hydrogen; Hydrogen + Oxygen = water). Piston rings aren't perfect, so some of that water slips into the crankcase. PCV certainly helps but does not totally eliminate the problem, especially if you make short runs where the crankcase doesn't get hot.
If your car is not stored at a constant temperature, the crankcase will breathe as the temp changes. This will allow some condensation to form.

Neither is as big of a problem as it used to be (buffering agents in the oil plus PVC) but they have not been eliminated.

__________________
Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub
Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

vtec to vvel

I drive my car once a week, and even then, maybe put 20 miles just to get the oil running. Regardless of mileage, I change my oil/filter every 6 months, as moisture will build up from just sitting there. I put Castrol Magnatec synthetic in mine with oem filter. I’ve used Castrol for all my cars and never had an issue.

__________________
Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t

vtec to vvel

Show off! Lol jk.

Listen to this man! He knows his sh*t!

__________________
Don't like what I post? Too bad. I really don't give a sh!t