So I'm currently driving my Z across the country (west) and as soon as I got into Colorado, and the altitude got above about 4,000 feet I noticed my clutch
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07-04-2018, 03:53 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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CSC first started showing symptoms at high altitude?
So I'm currently driving my Z across the country (west) and as soon as I got into Colorado, and the altitude got above about 4,000 feet I noticed my clutch started feeling softer.
As I climbed higher it got really bad, the engagement point was super low and the clutch started sticking to the floor. When I pump the clutch, I can feel the pressure building to "push it back out" and then the clutch engages normally again for a short time. I topped off the clutch fluid reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid, which helped a little, doesn't seem to be leaking. I got it up to about 10,000 feet, and it was pretty bad, now back down to 6,000 the problem is actually almost entirely gone. My question: I am 2,000 miles away from home, and my plan was to continue further. I am getting the clutch fluid bled and replaced completely tomorrow at Pep Boys. My Question: Does it seem like flushing and replacing the fluid might fix it for the duration of the trip or do I need a new CSC before returning home? 2012 370Z Touring now at 101k miles, haven't replaced since I've owned it at 63k miles. |
07-04-2018, 05:03 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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How lucky do you feel? Your symptoms often precede a catastrophic failure. But, with frequent flushing, you might get lucky and go another thousand miles before it gives up the ghost.
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07-04-2018, 05:07 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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From your description, it may be the clutch master cylinder (CMC) that is the problem ... especially if there is no loss of fluid. Regardless of whether you fix the problem on the road or when you return home, if the problem proves to be the CSC, you should replace the CMC at the same time.
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07-04-2018, 11:24 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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With the current mileage you have on you’re Z you are pushing your own luck with the risk of CSC or CMC failure close down the road. You should have rented a vehicle if you were planing on driving that far of a distance. I seen for myself that CSC or CMC failure can occur at any mileage doesn’t matter just depends on how you use you’re Z. Consistent flushing may increase the life but not by a lot. When you get home plan to install a Z Speed Performance CMAK CSC Delete, RJM Performance clutch petal assembly,RJM Performance CMC. Also check the condition of your clutch/flywheel to check for wear to see if it needs replacement.
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07-09-2018, 10:32 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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At 10,000' water boils at ~192°-193°, it's ~1°per 500' of change from sea level. Good call on the flush. I'll defer to the coolective wisdom on the longevity of the CSC and CMS, but maybe you have found a weird threshold on the amount of moisture in your fluid based on elevation. At 10k and an overnight park are you good until everything warms up?
If you have a chance the 550 (million dollar highway, google search it) to Ouray has some interesting driving. Make sure your brake and clutch are operating... if you hate 1000' dropoffs 4 inches to the right of the yellow line you might want to skip it.
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09-29-2018, 05:14 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Update:
Well she made it home, and I'm getting it fixed next week (not going csc delete, keeping system standard because my mechanic can do it cheap, and installing RJM clutch pedal). After the flush, it's made it 9 thousand miles with reservoir top offs every 300 miles. I have a miracle Z apparently... Feel free to berate my intelligence not installing the delete kit. It is leaking from the slave according to my mechanic. Should I replace the master as well? Thinking about just doing a clutch kit along with a new slave cylinder |
10-01-2018, 01:51 AM | #11 (permalink) |
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Update, apparently I'm not such an idiot after all...
Despite being on a tight budget, I broke down and bought the Z Speed CMAK kit, along with a new OEM master cylinder This, along with a new clutch, are being put on by mechanic soon. Thanks guys for all your help, my hope is to keep my (high mileage) Z for years to come, and to NEVER worry about this stupid hydrolic issue ever again |
11-14-2018, 06:46 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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Final update:
My car is now at about 113,700 miles, new clutch and kit has been on for 2,000 and it's great! OEM 2017+ Excedy clutch is great for daily use, and a definite upgrade from the original. CMAK kit has made the clutch feel much smoother, slightly reduced pedal pressure, and lower engagement point. Fluid no longer leaking. At first the engagement point was too low, but as the clutch has broken in it's settled to a nice point about 60 percent of the way down the clutch, which I am happy with. All in all well worth the money. I ended up doing the master cylinder, cmak, and new clutch for $1500 parts and labor, and it was well worth it to keep my car going! |
12-22-2018, 07:01 AM | #13 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I can tell you that there are a lot of things at work here... The clutch fluid is (thanks nissan) way too close to the exhaust system. And since the car is doing more work at higher altitude, more heat in the engine bay, and out the exhausts, cooking the fluid. If there is water in the brake fluid (wet) then there is more chance of getting air in the system from the water that evaped. Since brake fluid is essentially what is used for the clutch, then this can also affect the brake system.. A good way to check it is with a brake fluid tester ( 15 bucks on amazon) a lot of testers come with instructions. Also, you will notice that your clutch fluid looks like maple syrup... Im guessing that is a deterioration of the slave or some other contamination... All that said.,.. I would try flushing the clutch system before anything else. It is very easy to do if you have front wheel ramps, some metric wrenches, a bottle brake bleeder kit 25 bucks on amazon (Longacre 45202 Single Bottle Brake Bleeder Kit) and a few beers. Good tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvOa0gPJN6Q Video showing the slave location https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0cOSKtNrqY When i did mine, it looked like sewage coming out.. NOTE: This wont solve the eventual failure of the slave, but it can mitigate the problem..
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