Basic Battery vs. Dry Cell

Spartan 1771

After almost 9 years of service my OEM battery has finally died. I'm now in the market for a replacement and someone suggested I go with a dry cell, but I really don't know much about them. Since I haven't made any electrical or stereo modifications the suggestion was that I go with a red top Optima battery. My concern is that my Z is a garage queen and spends the majority of its time in the garage hooked to a battery tender. Are these conditions good for a dry cell, or should I just go with a basic battery?

Thanks in advance for the help!

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~Rob

-DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on...

JARblue

If you got 9 years out the OEM battery, you clearly are doing something right. A basic battery seems like it should be fine for you. I don't see any reason you would need a more expensive battery for a garage queen.

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Spartan 1771

Understand that my Z is a 2009 and only has 21,000 miles on it. Is there really any benefit to a dry cell for my application?

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~Rob

-DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on...

FPenvy

my OEM lasted 8/9 years as well. i ended up just putting a regular battery back in it.

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JARblue

There is more information here than you will ever need to know:
Car and Deep Cycle Battery Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) Section 7

My basic understanding was that the AGM batteries (such as Optima) are not as susceptible to vibration and jarring. I know a lot of guys that use them for off-road. But there are certainly some benefits for on-road use. Sections 7.1.4 and 7.1.5 have a nice little list for AGM batteries that you can compare to Sections 7.1.1 and 7.1.3 for wet batteries.

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SouthArk370Z

As others have mentioned, in some situations (racing, off-road, etc), the extra cost may be justifiable. For a DD, the standard Pb-acid battery is fine.

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Quicksilvers

Having wired and seen the electrical systems on the 370Z. The electrical system on the 370Z is very efficient and well put together when comparing to other vehicles out there. On the 370Z I would recommend a dry cel battery Optima red top or yellow top if you installed a high watt rated stereo system or do any off road racing/track or have modifications to your 370Z that require a high app rate battery. In most cases for street driven 370Z’s a quality pb acid battery will suffice. A good rule of thumb is every 3-4 years having your battery tested at your local preferred auto parts store to check the overall condition of your battery in your 370Z. I am very surprised that your battery lasted 8-9 years. No matter what my pd adic battery never lasted more than 4 years tops without having to replace it with a new battery. Also I know from experience that not driving your 370Z or any vehicle for that matter will do more harm than good to your whole vehicle over time. Your 370Z was meant to be driven on a regular basis and driven to operating temperatures.

Spartan 1771

Well I've had my Z for almost 9 years. I'm the original owner. It has never been driven in the snow or when the roads have salt or sand on them due to snow and or icy conditions. It has only been driven in the rain a hand full of times. It's in pristine physical and mechanical condition. During the warmer months I drive it on weekends to car shows and on short road trips. This past year I drove it down to Atlanta for the Z Nationals. I ran it on Friday on Road Atlanta and then won 1st Place in the judged car show the next day. While I was down there I actually had two people make me offers for the car. During the winter when it's tucked away in the garage I preform an insane amount of maintenance on it. So I can't see how I'm doing more harm then good by not using it as my daily driver. I understand what you're saying, but it isn't like I neglect this car or spare any expense.

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~Rob

-DD Air Guide, Stillen G3 CAIs, 63mm Throttle Bodies, Motordyne M370, Berk HFCs, FI TDX CBE (non-res, CF), Sprint booster v3, Ecutek Dyno Tuned, and the list goes on...

hotprops

agm red top or yellow top they are pricey though i will be putting a agm in my car even though it is not in need of one .for two reasons .dont use the car often and agm hold a charge better.also they are sealed so no corrosion in battery box and three i live in sw fl and the heat is a killer on batteries a local royal king store has there own branded 35 agm for only $160

cv129

To answer your question, this condition is perfectly fine for AGM batteries. However, modern "smart" chargers have AGM/Cold specific settings that push a slightly higher voltage.

Optima isn't the only provider, plenty of other brands you can pick from. I purchased a couple of Bosch AGM on sale for about $130 ea. after tax for my Z and G. I currently use a Noco Genius charger. Had a CTEK until wife accidentally destroyed it.

Also, some high end shops keep customer cars on smart charger at all time.

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