So I did some searching but I couldn't find an answer to a question I have, also I hope that I am posting this in the right section. So I
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07-03-2017, 12:20 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Radiator/fan
So I did some searching but I couldn't find an answer to a question I have, also I hope that I am posting this in the right section. So I have the same problem as everyone else with high engine oil temps even with just spirited driving, so I was wondering if there are any aftermarket radiators or fans that would help? or even if either one of these would help with oil temp? or is the only option an oil cooler Thank you Tim.
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07-03-2017, 12:31 AM | #2 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
But the best bet will be a separate oil cooler; there are many options and they all seem pretty simple (if time consuming) to install. |
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07-03-2017, 07:17 AM | #4 (permalink) |
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I've been looking at this for a little while. I use Torque to display three temperatures: VVT Oil Temperature (from the NADV add-on for Nissans), coolant temperature, intake manifold temperature.
So oil temperature is the truth (why its part of the three-instrument cluster I suppose), but the engine management works off of the coolant temperature. The thermostat and engine fans are set by the coolant temperature: the thermostat moves to circulate/cool at 185degrees F. the cooling fans kick on at 212degrees F. I've watched coolant temperature walk down from 212 to 201 and then slowly crawl back up to 212 while in traffic (hey, this *is* ATL). From what I can tell, the heat exchange capacity from the motor oil to the coolant is simply limited. At low speeds the oil temperature just seems to stick. At highway speeds, coolant drops to 195degrees F or as low as 185degrees F and then the oil temperature will start dropping. I'll second what Raeshlavik said: I believe the best bet is the 34-row oil cooler. I believe that there is some gain in other thermostats. I believe the Mishimoto opens at 165degrees F. I'm not certain, but I believe that some thermostat settings are programmable in the ECU. With the heat exchange limited, 5-10 degrees off coolant temperature isn't going to make a huge difference. Good luck |
07-03-2017, 07:48 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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The thermostat is not programmable in any way. The Mishimoto one is too low a temperature, and carries the added benefit of a high likelihood of failing and killing your motor. Like all of the parts made by those dumbfucks, it is absolute junk. There is a ten degree cooler thermostat from one year of the G37 if you need it cooler. It's not going to make a huge difference, but it will make a little difference.
If you want colder coolant, have your tuner set the fans to come on earlier and change the coolant mix to more water and less coolant. If it's still bad, replace the radiator with a CSF. If the oil temps are too high, get an oil cooler.
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07-03-2017, 05:21 PM | #6 (permalink) |
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Thanks guys I think I will just use an oil cooler since I am eventually going to run tt and I will end up needing one anyway.
Chuck I see that you are running tt do you throw codes? or have idiot lights that stay on? Last edited by wildolympic; 07-03-2017 at 05:29 PM. |
07-03-2017, 05:55 PM | #7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
If you're going to get an oil cooler with intentions of going with a tt kit down the line, make sure you spring for the 34 row.
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07-04-2017, 01:45 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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I've had my radiator fan kick in sooner through an Ecutek tune. It helped the car at least recover when casually driving, vs hitting 220 degrees and making you contemplate a literal "rest stop".
Oil cooler installed last week (25 row Setrab package from Z1). New name of the game is literally "can I even get this over 200 degrees?" and failing all the time. Granted, I'm not dealing with serious warm weather, but that's a huge difference from stock |
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