Transmission Noise, Possibly a bad CSC?

Shaggy370Z

So lately I have noticed that I am getting noise from the transmission when the clutch is engaged. Sometimes its kind of rattling sound or a scrubbing noise but when I let off the clutch the noise goes away. Mostly when its cold, when it warms up it goes away as far as I can tell. Today I had the sycrorev system on and did a down shift to second gear to slow down for a turn and after it was really noisey, so much so I thought something was going to come apart.

Anyone have any ideas or experience with anything similar to this? I am assuming it has to do with the poor designed OEM CSC and maybe the revs got too high? I bought the car used (1 owner lease) with 30K miles on it so I have no idea how it was driven prior to me purchasing the car. I have only put a little over 1000miles on it in the 3-4months I have owned it.

I am all for replacing it and possibly the clutch although I would want a similar design clutch because I have had experience with puck disc clutches and I hated them for the street. I do ALOT of stop and go driving where I live. Thanks in advance for any help or advice!!!


-Shaggy

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |

TreeSemdyZee

Pedal to the floor = quiet.
Pedal released = noisy.

Extremely common with the 370 as the multitude of threads will attest to. They chatter greatly.

If it's noisy when you push the clutch, that's another story. Most likely the throw-out bearing.

__________________
Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

Shaggy370Z

Mine makes this sound when the pedal is engaged(down) and goes away when released. I knew the clutch was noisey but this isn't the normal noise. It was very loud this time and went away after a few seconds. And releasing the pedal didn't make it go away like it would when it's cold.

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |

TreeSemdyZee

Could be the throw-out then.
I had a 350z that the dealer "worked on" and when I pushedin the clutch, it sounded like I had opened the gates of Hell.

__________________
Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

Ventruck

370Z's and noises man.

The stereo is pretty much in a shouting contest with everything else. Turn it off and all the small pebbles, raindrops, exhaust pings get you paranoid to whether there's a hatch leak or something.

Shaggy370Z

Yeah that is what I was thinking it could be. Now to decide on the Z1 CSC Delete or the ZSpeed CSC delete. The HD CSC is only around $100 less than the delete kits so to me it makes more sense to eliminate the poor design.



Yeah I have become used to the small noises that come with the car especially the fact that it likes to pick up rocks. This was unlike anything I have ever heard and was definitely not me being overly cautions. It didn't start raising hell until I stopped the car and that is when it sounded like it was going to come apart. Then after about 20 seconds or so it went away.

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |

TreeSemdyZee

I think my HD CSC is failing too. Not 100% sure, but I'd definitely go with a delete

__________________
Borla S-Type | Motordyne | Z1 (lots) | South Bend | K&N | Nismo/Nismo S-Tune | Eibach | Aerojacket | Fujimara | Spl | ZSpeed Performance | Kenwood-Infinity-Sound Ordnance | Whiteline | Ecutek | Hotchkis | Clazzio | VQ Vortex |Morimoto XB |Dynosty Tune 329.64hp 265.73 ft/lb

Shaggy370Z

Damn that sucks. Yeah I am definitely going with a delete. I am not a big fan of the internal slave setup at all, not too sure why Nissan would decided to use such a crappy design. Now I just have to find out which kit is better, looking at the ZSpeed kit the slave looks a lot easier to find replacements compared to Z1's.

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |

JARblue

Go with the ZSpeed kit. I've been running the Z1 kit since it came out. I'll be switching out for the ZSpeed kit as soon as I get the balls to drop the transmission in my garage on jack stands over a weekend again.

__________________

Shaggy370Z

Thanks for posting!! I am definitely going with the ZSpeed kit, it looks like a solid kit and the slave looks like a standard oem Nissan slave so it should be very easy to source a replacement over the Z1 slave. I still have access to lifts at the moment so I am trying to get as much under the car as possible while I still can. Removing the tranny on a lift looks like a fairly easy job.

Since I havent had a compete failure and my fluid still looks ok, do I still need to replace the master cylinder as well? I have no issue doing so just want to make sure I don't replace something that doesn't really need to be replaced.

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |

JARblue

I would replace the master regardless. Chances are the internal seals are already at least partially compromised. And it's not expensive in the grand scheme of things.

There is a rebuild kit for the master and a decent DIY here on the forum. I think the kit runs ~$18 so it's much cheaper than a new one if you know what you're doing on the rebuild.

__________________

Shaggy370Z

Ok good to know. I will order one when I order the ZSpeed kit. I am going to wait until I have the tranny out before I decide to replace the clutch or not. Its not my only ride so if it has to sit for a week or so it wont kill me. I don't expect any problems with it provided the CSC didn't cause any issues.

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |

JARblue

I replaced the stock CSC at 51K miles as a preventative measure because I put 15K+ miles a year on the car as my daily driver. I was on my third master by that point

I had no reason to replace the clutch at that time. I'm about to hit 90K this month, and the clutch is still in fine shape.

__________________

Shaggy370Z

That's great to hear. Mine only has 34K miles on it so I expect the clutch to still be in good shape. I am definitely getting rid of the internal CSC very soon.

__________________
| Top Speed Pro-1 CBE | R2C Back Hex Drop In Filters | CZP Silicon Post-MAF Hoses | UpRev Tuner Ed. | Aodhan AH03 (black) 19x9.5/11 rims +22 offset | TBW Aluminum Under Tray | NISMO Shift Knob |