Read that it can be done. Anyone care to share exactly how long it would take to run through one complete cycle of new fluid and any helpful tips? TIA.
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10-16-2016, 11:21 AM | #1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Gravity Bleed for Clutch
Read that it can be done. Anyone care to share exactly how long it would take to run through one complete cycle of new fluid and any helpful tips?
TIA. |
10-16-2016, 11:34 AM | #2 (permalink) |
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I actually just installed the new rjm master cylinder and gravity didn't work so well. You just need a helper. There is a bleeder nut next to the trans.
You open nut Helper push clutch and hold You close nut Helper release clutch and add fluid. Repeat
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10-17-2016, 11:42 AM | #3 (permalink) |
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i did this recently, the best is to follow the procedure outlined by Joe@zspeed, i got a very firm clutch pedal using this technique. You should be able to do this by yourself in like 10 minutes and half a bottle of brake fluid, no need for a buddy. Make sure to pump very slowly. I gave it 5 seconds or so for each clutch pedal pump. if you go too quick you'll froth the clutch fluid and create air bubbles. Keep in mind the below instructions are for a fresh slave cylinder install so it assumes your system is dry, but the same principles apply.
Loosen slave cylinder bleed screw in short SS line. Fill Reservoir with fresh Dot 3 , Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 (DOT 3-4 compatible) brake fluid and let sit for 2-3 minutes keeping reservoir full, Fluid level should slowly lower, If it does not call us as your master cylinder adjustment may be off. With bleeder slightly open at slave line, Pump pedal by hand completely and slowly (pausing at the top for a second or two) 10-20 times making sure pedal is pulled completely up on each stroke by hand to distribute fluid through system making sure to keep reservoir full. Allow system to Gravity bleed for approx 2-3 minutes keeping reservoir full. Close bleeder valve. Pump pedal 15-20 times, Release pedal and pull to full up position. Open bleeder and allow to gravity bleed for an additional 1-2 minutes. Close bleeder and pump pedal until you get a full returning pedal If clutch pedal will not return fully master cylinder may be weak and in need of replacement. |
10-19-2016, 12:45 AM | #4 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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the system should be full on the last step. I think this is where I start with just replacing the fluid.
so how fast does the fluid flow out on your last step? Quote:
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11-12-2016, 06:58 AM | #5 (permalink) |
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Sweet, exactly what I was looking for. Did you end up doing this? How did it go? I am afraid to do this after seeing people having so much trouble with gravity bleeding and finding out their CMC's were broken
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11-13-2016, 03:43 AM | #6 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
This is how I do it and it does require a buddy to press the pedal for you while you are under the car working the bleeder. First you need to suck out as much fluid as you can out of the reservar, i used a turkey injector, then top it off with brand new brake fluid, aslo be careful wear protective rubber gloves and eyewear, brake fluid is toxic to us, so try not to get it on ur skin, and dispose of it at your nearest Auto Zone. When buddy presses the pedal and HOLD IT, while you open the bleeder, bleed the old brake fluid then close it. Only then the buddy should let go of the pedal, he/she should then top off the reservar and get back to pumping the pedal again until its firm, then press and hold it, letting you know that he/she is holding it, so that you can open the bleeder, bleed, then close again, repeat this until the old fluid comes out fully, it should take about one brake fluid bottle, could be a bit more. GL
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