Lost all power to car after trying to start

atw257 · 02-29-2016, 06:19 PM

This is for a 2013 automatic with zero modifications.

My girlfriend pulled into her parking spot and turned the car off. She then realized that she was on the line a bit, so she got back in the car and tried to start it up when the car completely died. No lights came on, the key fob wouldn't unlock or lock the car, absolutely nothing. I finally made it to her house and checked the battery with a multi-meter, because I assumed her battery had just died. I was reading 12.8 VDC on the battery, so everything looked fine there. I got in the car and the break peddle was locked up as well as the steering wheel, and absolutely no lights would turn on.

I unhooked the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and replaced it. I was then able to start the car. I then turned the car off and tried turning it on again and it started to turnover and then completely lost power again.

Once again I disconnected the negative terminal and reconnected it. I was able to start and restart the car multiple times this time around without losing power.

Not sure if anyone has ran into this, but I'm not sure what the main cause was here, and if it is going to happen to her again.

Any help would be appreciated.

beemerkid · 02-29-2016, 07:23 PM

At a minimum make sure both the positive AND negative battery cable connections are really clean, take a wire brush to the battery posts and the inside of the clamps, that's where I'd start.

atw257 · 03-01-2016, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beemerkid

At a minimum make sure both the positive AND negative battery cable connections are really clean, take a wire brush to the battery posts and the inside of the clamps, that's where I'd start.

Yeah that was the first thing I checked. Both post were clean and free of any buildup.

JARblue · 03-01-2016, 09:48 AM

Take it to an auto shop (AutoZone or Advance or whatever's close) and ask them to see if there are any diagnostic codes that were recorded. They can also test the battery CCA.

Considering you've already checked the connections, those would be my next steps

SouthArk370Z · 03-01-2016, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by atw257

... the break peddle was locked up ...

This might be a clue - the brake pedal doesn't lock - but I have no idea what it would indicate.

JARblue · 03-01-2016, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

This might be a clue - the brake pedal doesn't lock - but I have no idea what it would indicate.

I wasn't quite sure what he was referring to there lol

Thought maybe he was selling broken merchandise outside a locksmith shop

falconfixer · 03-01-2016, 10:34 AM

Need a little more information. Original battery? How did you get into car if key fob didn't unlock? Did you check voltage right after having it running? Steering wheels lock all the time but never heard of a brake pedal locking up. Do you do drugs?

MagmaRed370z · 03-01-2016, 10:40 AM

I think he means that the pedal does not give or feels soft.

You know, when you are inside your car and the car is OFF, you push on the brakes multiple times and it becomes "not spongy" anymore. Hard to describe but I think that's what the OP is trying to say about the brakes.

02-29-2016, 06:19 PM	#1 (permalink)
atw257 Base Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: St. Peters, MO Posts: 17 Drives: 09 370Z Nismo MB M6 Rep Power: 13	Lost all power to car after trying to start This is for a 2013 automatic with zero modifications. My girlfriend pulled into her parking spot and turned the car off. She then realized that she was on the line a bit, so she got back in the car and tried to start it up when the car completely died. No lights came on, the key fob wouldn't unlock or lock the car, absolutely nothing. I finally made it to her house and checked the battery with a multi-meter, because I assumed her battery had just died. I was reading 12.8 VDC on the battery, so everything looked fine there. I got in the car and the break peddle was locked up as well as the steering wheel, and absolutely no lights would turn on. I unhooked the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and replaced it. I was then able to start the car. I then turned the car off and tried turning it on again and it started to turnover and then completely lost power again. Once again I disconnected the negative terminal and reconnected it. I was able to start and restart the car multiple times this time around without losing power. Not sure if anyone has ran into this, but I'm not sure what the main cause was here, and if it is going to happen to her again. Any help would be appreciated. Last edited by atw257; 02-29-2016 at 06:22 PM.

03-01-2016, 09:48 AM	#4 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Take it to an auto shop (AutoZone or Advance or whatever's close) and ask them to see if there are any diagnostic codes that were recorded. They can also test the battery CCA. Considering you've already checked the connections, those would be my next steps __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

03-01-2016, 10:34 AM	#7 (permalink)
falconfixer Track Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: 10aC Posts: 978 Drives: Taco Rep Power: 76	Need a little more information. Original battery? How did you get into car if key fob didn't unlock? Did you check voltage right after having it running? Steering wheels lock all the time but never heard of a brake pedal locking up. Do you do drugs? sx moneypit likes this. __________________ Bitch ex wife's scumbag lawyer made sure this went away.

03-01-2016, 10:40 AM	#8 (permalink)
MagmaRed370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: USA Posts: 1,468 Drives: 14' 370z Sport Magma Rep Power: 13	I think he means that the pedal does not give or feels soft. You know, when you are inside your car and the car is OFF, you push on the brakes multiple times and it becomes "not spongy" anymore. Hard to describe but I think that's what the OP is trying to say about the brakes. __________________ Sold: 2014 Magnetic Black Base. Current: 2014 Magma Red 370z Sport \| ARK Grip Exhaust \| 25mm HR Spacers \| GTR Button \| DRL Mod

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02-29-2016, 07:23 PM	#2 (permalink)
beemerkid Base Member Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Santa Rosa California Posts: 67 Drives: '16 sport 6MT Rep Power: 10	At a minimum make sure both the positive AND negative battery cable connections are really clean, take a wire brush to the battery posts and the inside of the clamps, that's where I'd start.