About removing the fuel rail, anything I need to know?

Mysilverz

So I'm installing the Z1 ported lower intake manifold Sunday and I have to atleast unbolt if not remove the fuel rail from the motor. This was a stopping point for me this last Sunday as I was alone and unsure of the proper procedure for relieving fuel pressure or re priming the fuel system. I don't even know if I need to do any of this but I do have to remove the fuel rail and injectors from the manifold.
So my questions.
1. Do I need to relive the pressure from the fuel system and if so how?
2. If so how do I prime it after install?
3. Do I need to actually remove the fuel rail from the car for this install?
4. Is there any thing I need to know before doing this?
5. Any suggestions, tips, or advice as I go deeper in?

As always thank you for all the help,
Brent

Jayhovah

I'll answer what I can.... based on my TT installation.

1) Yes. You can do what I did and just surround the pulsation damper with rags, unbolt it, curse as it still sprays all over you, panic and get way more rags than you thought you would need, then let it drain. Optionally, I think you can disconnect the connector at the fuel pump then start the car and wait for it to die. Confirm this method with others, as I did not do this.

2) No need to prime.

3) No idea.. I didn't remove my lower.

4) Dive in!

5) Wear eye protection.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted

ANMVQ

I've done this twice on my car,

1. Do I need to relive the pressure from the fuel system and if so how? NO
2. If so how do I prime it after install? NO
3. Do I need to actually remove the fuel rail from the car for this install? NO

The only thing to watch out for is the metal fuel line that goes the regualtor, there is also a small bracket that you'll need to remove before you can VERY gently bend the line to remove it from the rail( Front left side of the rail. You do not have to remove it just move it off to the side, and a use a VERY small hammer to tap the injectors into the lower, after I put them back in by hand you do not want to pinch or break an O-ring. Few pics below the second pic you can see the metal line I am talking about

Attached Images

	Intake lower before install.jpg (133.2 KB, 115 views)
	porte lower done.jpg (7.3 KB, 255 views)
	Scotts lower port closeup4.jpg (93.1 KB, 102 views)
	intake tear down.jpg (142.7 KB, 86 views)

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

Mysilverz

Thank you for the quick response. Yeah that's where I stopped. I saw the hard line from the fuel rail to the regulator and the bracket that's covers those hard lines. The last thing I wanted to do was mess up my fuel system on my DD.

ANMVQ

Yea no problem man, after the bracket is removed you can take it off and move it enough to get the rail off. It's a little tuff to get it out of the rail also, be careful to not pry it with anything. The metal is soft

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

Mysilverz

Ok thank you for the heads up.

hustleman222

Thanks for the help guys...I did remove the rail just because it was so close...do y'all have any torque specs on the bolts?

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336whp/273tq Didn't push it hard enough.
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