I did the exact same thing to my BMW E30 and loved it so it needed to be done to the Z. Tools you'll need: 10mm wrench Bailing wire or
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07-21-2014, 11:07 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Footwell Lighting DIY
I did the exact same thing to my BMW E30 and loved it so it needed to be done to the Z.
Tools you'll need: 10mm wrench Bailing wire or coat hanger #2 Phillips #2 Flat Head Wire Strippers Electrical Tape Soldering Iron LEDs 4 Red & 4 Cool White (I bought these Tiny Prewired Super Bright Surface Mount LEDs - 12V DIY Plug and Play SMT LED) 22 gauge wire (20m 66ft 20awg Extension Cable Wire Cord for Led Strips Single Colour 3528 5050 - Led Household Light Bulbs - Amazon.com) Dimmer (optional) (Amazon.com: Mini LED Controller Dimmer with RF Wireless Remote Control DC 5~24V 12A R106: Musical Instruments) Step 1: Disconnect the battery, 10mm wrench Step 2: Use the flat head and pop off the map light lenses. Step 3: Using the flat head again, gently unlatch (4 tabs) and pry the map light module free. Unroute some of the wires to give you some working room. Step 4: The next part is based on your choice. I routed the wires down the passenger A pillar since there was no wiring already present. To remove the plastic cover, just grip the A pillar cover and give it a quick yank perpendicular to the A pillar. Step 5: Remove the sunvisor. There is a total of 3 screws (#2 phillips) behind two covers. This will allow you to loosen the plastic the sunvisor mounts to. Step 6: Time to route the wires for the power. You'll need two pieces of 22gauge wire (biwire, wire with a positive and negative) approximately 7-8 feet long. Using a piece of bailing wire or coat hanger (see photo 1), feed it through the A-pillar entrance towards the map light module area (see photo 2). Photo 1: Photo 2: Photo3 : Step 7: Time to get power for the white lights. Select a map light that you would like to act as a switch. I choose the passenger light. There are four clips that you can unlatch to remove the individual light socket/switch. Unlatch those and it'll come free. There is another four latches that secure a band of three wires (white) to the light switch. Unhook those. Now you have access to your power for the footwell light for the white lights. Using wire strippers, strip a set wires that you have pulled through from the A-pillar. Once you have done this, you'll be able to route the stripped wires underneath the copper connectors (see photo 4). Now place the relatch the clamp for the band wire. Photo 4: Step 8: Time to get power for the red lights. Connected to the light module, there is a green wire with black wire. Use your soldering to burn through the insulation to expose the wire (see photo 5). Solder your positive wire to the green along with your negative to the black wire. See photo 6. Photo 5: Photo 6: Once you have taped up or heat shrunk the exposed solder and wire. You can put everything back together. Step 9: Route the power wires to the footwell. If you pulled off the passenger side A-pillar, there is a hole in in the dash that you can feed bailing wire through that will go down into the foot well. See photo 7. Photo 7: Step 10: Mount and wire your LEDs to the appropriate power source. There is a small opening behind the middle part of the dash that you can route the wires. Once everything is mounted and tucked away. You just need to reconnect the battery. If nothing turns on initially, check your positive and negative leads. LEDS have to have the correct polarity. End Result: Photo 8 & 9 If you have any questions, just shoot me a PM and I'll see what I can do. |
07-24-2014, 09:58 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Nice write up! Just wondering for those of us without a soldering iron, was there enough room in the map light module to use these wire splicers to connect the wires?
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Current Ride: 2012 Nissan 370Z NISMO #0389 Mods: Fast Intentions Resonated Test Pipes and TDX Exhaust with 18" Resonators (#1054), K&N Drop-Ins, GTR Start Button |
07-26-2014, 11:18 AM | #7 (permalink) |
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I actually was looking to go that way (smaller gauge wire version) except for there isn't a way to get those connectors onto the wires without cutting. At that point you could just use crimp connectors.
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05-26-2015, 06:37 PM | #8 (permalink) |
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This is so unbelievably badass..... I just wish I was savvy enough to pull this off on my own without screwing something up lol
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2011 MB 370z Touring w/Sport F.I. TDX Cat Back 18" res. Exhaust // F.I. Long Tube Headers // K&N Drop-in // Z1 Silicone Post-MAF Intake Hose |
10-15-2016, 07:09 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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https://vimeo.com/187495866just need to clean the plastic so the 3m tape will stick. Have mine wired to the accessory power, and the controller changes all the colors and stuff.
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